Possible? Yes
Practical? No
Economical? No

But who cares about practical or economical? If its your dream you gotta follow that star!

 

If you're going to "huff" a motor, you better make sure it's built to take the extra compression you're going to build.

 

actually, a properly set up turbo charged motor will get better mileage then a NA one.

There has been many threads about this, I think the conclusion was to use a 360, lower the compression a little, and use 2 turbos off of a turbo charged daytona, or something similar. I would use 2 T3/T4's. There are alot of sites that have turbo charged mopar engines, some even show the construction of the homemade manifolds/downpipes/setups. Pretty neat stuff.

 

Unless you don't want a lot of boost, you will need to lower the compression in your engine. Depending on boost, 8:1 compression should work good.
One of the best ways (my opinion) to TC an RC would be to find two 2.2 or 2.5 turbos off of an eighties Mitsu, Toyota or Dodge. Find two small intercoolers, or buy aftermarket.
The manifolds will have to be fab'd, and starting with a decent set of headers would be best.
The heads should be ported and polished, with stainless valves.
A larger cam should be installed (high lift, short duration)
Since you have fuel injection, you have a head start, you don't need a "pressure box" that a carb would need.
You need a lot larger injectors than stock, otherwise you will melt the motor.
Your computer will have to be reprogrammed, or you will have to go with a megasquirt fuel control.
Use only top quality gaskets and components. Skimping on the parts will leave you stranded and waste money. Do it right the first time.
I think the best place for the intercoolers would be in the wheelwell area, after making a ram scoop to feed them. You may want to use an electric fan on it, and maybe hook up a water sprayer on the intercoolers.
If you use two small turbos, one on each bank, you will have full boost almost immediately. The higher the psi of the turbos, the longer it will take to spool up.
Hope this helped!

~PS
Your turbo engine will make a lot more heat, make sure your radiator can handle it....you should upgrade to a three or four core radiator. Aluminum is great for a street rod...

~edit camshaft correction, thanks 300LE~

 

wow.. it is possible.. thanks for all the info guys.. its really appreciated.

 

on another, semi-related note... with the TBI setup i have, can the manifold be changed to, say a mopar performance M1 intake manifold?? or is there a special manifold that has to be used with the TBI

 

on another, semi-related note... with the TBI setup i have, can the manifold be changed to, say a mopar performance M1 intake manifold?? or is there a special manifold that has to be used with the TBI

I believe the M1 is a single plane manifold (could be wrong), so you would lose some low end torque. You can keep the current manifold in a TC engine. Just have it ported out and smoothed by a machine shop. Have them port match it to the heads.
If you are using the truck off road, then I would stay with small turbos and intercoolers, that way you have no lag and full boost by 1500-1800 rpm.
No matter how you do it, you will spend quite a bit of cash on this project. Just don't skimp on the parts, I can't stress that one enough....
For the fuel injection you could also go to a holley commander 950 system,at summit or jegs, that would add another 230 cfm and its own adjustable controls. So long as you don't have emissions, this is an awesome way to go.

 

Do not use a long duration cam with a turbo. I would have one of the cam companies spec a cam for you.

 

A long duration cam (race cam) is the enemy of turbocharging. All you low end boost is going out the exhaust, and for better GRUNT that is when you need it. Actually if your truck is already running TBI injection you are mostly there. If you keep the boost under 8psi a stock setup on your motor is fine as long as your timing is retarded enough under boost.
Running a single turbo is fine also but you have to run the exhaust manifolds into a common connection to feed the turbo. Most people don't do this because the small 4cyl turbos are easy to "scrap around" and find.
Running a large single turbo on a MoPar V8 is VERY COMMON setup in motor homes. You might even be able to find a kit if you look around.

 

Jeremy;
While forced induction can be used very effectively, they are not cheap.

In the case of turbocharging, not only do you have to buy a turbo, but you'll need to custom fabricate an all new exaust system and modify the intake to get it to work. It's not exactly cheap.

Supercharging maybe alittle more practical. Companies such as Whipple, Paxton and Vortex all offer bolt on centerfugical superchargers for many popular V8s but these things are expensive.

Either way another issue is the EFI in your truck. The current system may not be able to keep up with the fuel demands of a forced induction engine.

Your best way to spend money on performance improvements to your engine is to go with a matching Cam and EFI capable intake, topped with a pair of headers and dual exaust.

You can also gain back some power with a ring and pinion swap in both axles.

Ed

 

thanks for all the info guys... the idea was a longshot, but i figured it worth asking.. and Ed, what, if any, intakes are EFI compatible?

 

thanks for all the info guys... the idea was a longshot, but i figured it worth asking.. and Ed, what, if any, intakes are EFI compatible?

Any intake is EFI compatable. You can have injector bosses welded into any manifold you want, or use an appropriate TBI on any manifold. It is all what you want to do.

 

have no fear, fore i am here

ok mostly right on.

for a cheap build up here is some advice. 360 short block with summit forged rebuild kit. dunno if they still sell it. was like $300. included everything but block rods and crank. even included forged 8:1 pistons.

rv type cam is good. 260ish seems to work well for lotta guys.

regular ol 360 heads (unmilled) seem to work.

forget about stock tbi!

a multi point system would be much better. a good controller such as the ford EEC-IV or GM-EPROM or any aftermarket controller (read up on mega squirt thread)

other efi parts are scrounged from various ferd gm mopar oem parts (for parts availability) they make cheap hi flo pumps, throttle bodies, injectors ect ect. throttle body might come from a ford "single barrel" from a mustang or a "2bbl" from a dodge or gm. or an aftermarket throttle body. get creative! injectors could come from ford racing (under $250 for set of or mopar performance for turbo 4 cylinder. (4 pack for about $140) mix and match to your hearts delight. injector is drilled for 8 injectors or use magnum intake or what ever.

now that you ve got a competant fuel system, you can work on the turbo and exhaust. a GARRET turbocharger found on 87 and earlier turbo mopars has been found to work ok. do not use the mitsubishi t4. bad. very bad. (its what i got and its too restrictive on the exhuast side even for a 2.2L 4 cylinder) i over boost and have seen as high as 20psi, not whaat im looking for on a stock engine this is called boost creep. even better would be a manual transmission turbo from a turbocoupe or xr7 with .63 exhaust housing A/R. good unit there.

or a hybrid could also work for considerably more dough. advantage is more power with same lag since exhuast housing is t3 and intake is t4. (old aftermarket companies used a single t4 to feed 440s in motor homes with a thermoquad mounted on top)

as far as boost, crank it up as much as you want as long as it dont knock. good fuel (87 can even be run in a low boost-oem does it all the time) but i always run 93 or higher. once in a while i run a bit of 110. when i lost my cat, boost went up so much more and lag went down. went from 10-12 psi to well over 15 and as much as 20 or more. no knock but i was scared. ran like a raped ape and sppoled so much faster. and i could actually hear the turbine for once. never had any knock. but its something you gotta play with. boost controllers are a good thing. can build your own multi stage one with simple switches and solenoids (found on factory turbo cars) and vacuum line. you place solenoid in line of positive manifold pressure and waste gate actuator. when switch is off no boost gets to waste gate, causing rapid response and much less lag. boost builds fast. then with a simple pressure switch (hobbs) set at desired psi the solenoid opens and waste gate in turn opens, limiting boost.
you can also use the switches to "turn off" the turbos for a limp home mode on cheap gas.

dont buy a long tube header and expect it to be any good. rumor has it, a magnum shorty header will bolt up. you CANNOT flip mopar headers upside down. but you can switch them from left to right so they dump out in the front of the engine for better accessability of the turbos.

intercooler is preferably from a powerstroke diesel.


not a task to be done w/o a welder or welder friend.

definetly recommend it though.

lets get discussin this topic again. i love it!

 

damn.. sounds like it could be a lot of fun!

 

Would the stock Transmission and drivetrain handle the extra power? 1990 RC that is, going with a 360 maybe 300hp or so then shove 6=8psi down it to get near 425hp?