the factory trans pan bolts have washers that Do Not come off the bolts .

 

Thanks. Actually I didn't pull any of them out toninspect then. Just tightened all down good. Did that about 1 1/2 weeks ago. Gonna check it out  this morning see if anything has started leaking again.

 

Don't go too crazy on the tightening. That's actually how a lot of pans end up leaking. Someone tightens them like mad trying to get it to seal up and they end up warping the pan sound the bolt holes.

 

Yes sorb. I was warned prior. So they're snug, but not torqued.

 

Well, I took a peek this morning and I discovered it isn't leaking a lot, but seems to still be leaking. I ran my finger around the edge of the pan, and I find clear trans fluid. So, I'm thinking I need to replace the gasket?  I see the gasket at a couple spots around the pan. Looks like a thick rubber type gasket.  Doesn't seem to be leaking anywhere else.

What y'all recommend for replacement?  And shud I swap out those pan screws with new screws and washers? I'm thinking yes

Bruce

 

Many places a 727/518 can leak from.
1. pan if using cork gasket or if screws being overtightened have stripped the threads out of the aluminum case  (doesnt take much)
2. shift selector shaft seal
3.  band adjuster screws on drivers side
4. torque convertor hub seal
5.  front pump seal
6. neutral safety switch
7.  crack in housing

If you are not using the mopar rubber/steel or moroso rubber/steel gasket, thats an issue right there.

 

Not sure what the gasket is. I've had the truck a short time. But what I can see looks like a black rubber gasket. What if the screws have been overtightened? What do ya do ?

 

LOL ...... yeah , most trans pans Do Not have a drain plug ....... so what you do is remove the oil pan screws on all but one corner , loosen those letting the pan down trying Not to make a mess while catching the fluid . then choose a aftermarket new oil pan OR look at the bolt holes of yours , dimple them back and install a new gasket, and filter , which is right there . Install new trans fluid , run engine till warm, check trans fluid in NEUTRAL with the engine running . ( block wheels etc ... )  ( filter and gasket must have the same shape as the ones removed )

 

first spray it all down with brake clean and dry with air hose.

them toss some baby powder around the shift lever/PTK lever seal/ trans line area/ dip tube seal

also around the rear of the pan at the revs servo lever pin (shaft o-ring just above rear pan rail)

this will let the slow leak wick into the powder to show where it is coming from. then you can follow it from drainage/windage to the pan gasket.

the newer style gaskets do not crush so do not over torque bolts if it has the newer style pan gasket.

it is a reusable o-ring pan gasket you can get at the dealer and work better than older cork/rubber gaskets.

most time the leak is one of these spots rather than the pan gasket. they all will lead you to the pan rail area as it travels to the drip spot.

 

The new(er) reusable o-ring gaskets are great.....but make sure you get your pan good and flat...after that, you'll likely never have to straighten it again (if using the o-ring gasket).

 

Many places a 727/518 can leak from.
1. pan if using cork gasket or if screws being overtightened have stripped the threads out of the aluminum case (doesnt take much)
2. shift selector shaft seal
3. band adjuster screws on drivers side
4. torque convertor hub seal
5. front pump seal
6. neutral safety switch
7. crack in housing

If you are not using the mopar rubber/steel or moroso rubber/steel gasket, thats an issue right there.

You forgot the fittings for the transmission lines.

 

first spray it all down with brake clean and dry with air hose.

them toss some baby powder around the shift lever/PTK lever seal/ trans line area/ dip tube seal

also around the rear of the pan at the revs servo lever pin (shaft o-ring just above rear pan rail)

this will let the slow leak wick into the powder to show where it is coming from. then you can follow it from drainage/windage to the pan gasket.

the newer style gaskets do not crush so do not over torque bolts if it has the newer style pan gasket.

it is a reusable o-ring pan gasket you can get at the dealer and work better than older cork/rubber gaskets.

most time the leak is one of these spots rather than the pan gasket. they all will lead you to the pan rail area as it travels to the drip spot.

Alright. I'm gonna ask a series of dumb questions

1. Does anybody have an exploded view of the various parts outlined in 440power's quoted message? Mr Google is not forthcoming enough or I don't know what to search for.

2. How the heck do I know if the pan is "flat enough? I'm assuming both the piece mounted under the truck AND the cover as I remove it. What constitutes "flat"?

3. How do I know if the screws have been tightened "too much"? What is to be done if they have been?

4. What specifically do I need to ask the parts store for as it relates to the gasket. I've found that if you don't have "exactly" the correct verbiage, some of them can't find it.

Thanks everybody

Bruce

 

I can answer a few of your questions.

1. I got nothing - sorry.
2. Flat enough is when you can lay the pan, sealing surface down, on a flat table and not see any gaps between the sealing surface and the table. The case itself should be flat already as it is not a thin piece of metal prone to bending and warping.
3. You'll know if the pan has been tightened too much when you look at as I described above. You'll see that there are gaps between the table and the pan around the bolt holes. You can hammer them back flat.
4. Get gasket 2464324AC from a Dodge dealer. That is the one being discussed above, I believe. I used it and it works well.

Hopefully that helps!

 

I can answer a few of your questions.

1. I got nothing - sorry.
2. Flat enough is when you can lay the pan, sealing surface down, on a flat table and not see any gaps between the sealing surface and the table. The case itself should be flat already as it is not a thin piece of metal prone to bending and warping.
3. You'll know if the pan has been tightened too much when you look at as I described above. You'll see that there are gaps between the table and the pan around the bolt holes. You can hammer them back flat.
4. Get gasket 2464324AC from a Dodge dealer. That is the one being discussed above, I believe. I used it and it works well.

Hopefully that helps!

Sweet. Thanks duval.

Trying to figure out where to sling the baby powder ;-). I'm afraid I'm a fledgling to this (aka not a mech), so a PTK lever could be poking me in the eye and I wouldn't know it. AND Revs servo lever, uhm da Fork? Lol.

 

Sweet. Thanks duval.

Trying to figure out where to sling the baby powder ;-). I'm afraid I'm a fledgling to this (aka not a mech), so a PTK lever could be poking me in the eye and I wouldn't know it. AND Revs servo lever, uhm da Fork? Lol.

Back to the flattening if the pan cover. What do you use to flatten it? Just a hammer and a nice smooth surface under the pan edge?

Bruce

 

it does not take much , where the bolt holes are gets puckered , all ya need do is un pucker those holes . usually setting the edge of pan on flat surface , putting the ball end of a ball peen hammer on/in the hole and tapping with another hammer . I reinerate , it doesn't take much .

 

I usually put a 2x4 in a vice and hold the pan rail on it while I gently tap the bolt holes.....frequently checking with a straight edge.

 

Roger that. Slight rapping. Don't pound it.

 

Also, check the two lower bolts that attach the tail housing to the trans. The bolt holes are open to the inside of the case.

 

I can answer a few of your questions.

1. I got nothing - sorry.
2. Flat enough is when you can lay the pan, sealing surface down, on a flat table and not see any gaps between the sealing surface and the table. The case itself should be flat already as it is not a thin piece of metal prone to bending and warping.
3. You'll know if the pan has been tightened too much when you look at as I described above. You'll see that there are gaps between the table and the pan around the bolt holes. You can hammer them back flat.
4. Get gasket 2464324AC from a Dodge dealer. That is the one being discussed above, I believe. I used it and it works well.

Hopefully that helps!

so, I went by the local autozone yesterday, they cross referenced the dodge deal part number ya gave me (2464324AC) and they have it in stock...the material that it is made of is "composite". Kind of like a rubber/something else mix....is that the best gasket to go with? it was about $6.00...just want to make sure I get the right gasket....the filter/gasket kit (also about $6.00) appears to have a rubber gasket in them...

What say you oh mopar gurus??

Bruce

 

The part number that comes from Dodge is (I believe) steel surrounded by some sort of rubber/composite material with 2 impregnated silicone beads running around it.
You don't want one that is just a flat piece of rubber/composite. You want the beads.

 

sorry for a delay.

1) the shift lever and PTK lever have a 1 1/4 seal in the case with the stub from valve body sticking thru case of trans. follow the shift rods to the trans lever/then the rod/lever from the carb linkage to the same spot for PTK lever.

there is also a small PTK seal in the tower. both levers are stacked on top of each other with clamped on the shaft.

2) 5/16 metal tubes are trans fluid cooling lines. the line at front of trans id the pump pressure line feeding to the rad cooler. the brass 1/8 npt x 5/16 flare fitting can crack and leak or line not seated/stripped fitting could leak.

the rear line is the return from rad cooler+ same fitting/line to check.

after brake clean and air dry just load as much baby powder you can all over the top of pan rail/shift lever/line area/ dip tube/case area.

start by letting it sit over night to see if torque converter drain back raises fluid level to leak at shift lever seal while not running.

then check with it running and hot looking for red to show up in the powder.

at the rear of pan rail just above it, you can see the end of a shaft. that has a O-ring that will leak. it is also right in line with the tail housing gasket surface so check gasket and tail housing bolts.

have a look at the o-ring a pinion shaft seal on the speedo plug/if removed for service make sure to clock it correctly going back in. *FYI if not sure how ask here!

last look at output shaft seal . front pump seal will dump fluid as it runs and no mistaking it when it fails it will be in bell housing with TC sling it everywhere.

tip on the new gaskets. they are for newer pans/trans and use a longer bolt IIRC.

older bolts work but only catch the lower 1/2 of threds in the case. due to no crush on the o-ring gasket it is easy to strip them out. if this happens you can band aid it with a longer screw.

if the pan is beat up/warped/hammerd and needs replaced. check dealer for the newer 518 trans pan/filter/gasket. it is a little deeper and a good upgrade for a worn out  thin LA style pan.

you find most leaks on the driver side or dip tube are on pass side. 9 out of 10 times when you have replaced all or most everything else it is the rear servo shaft o-ring leaking down onto pan rail.

that one will drive you nuts so I check there first along with the 1 1/4" sift shaft seal/PTK shaft seal.

hope that helps and not confuse.

 

go to the dealer and get a mopar gasket runs about 16$ ask about a 518 paan they runs about 65$ ask about a bolt set they run about 20$ get a mopar filter runs about 12$ at my local dealer.

I post the correct part # for a 727 and a 904 pan gasket later. don't have them handy right now.

the newer gaskets are about a 1/2" thick flat with a raised bead/o-ring seal edge. that's it kinda hard plastic with a rubber bead layer vulcanized on ( may not be best way to describe it but have a look at a dealer gasket then autozone cheapy.

 

forgot to mention. if the shift shaft seal/ptk seal are leaking they are a little more involved to replace and valve body may need R&R to get done correctly.

they do make a toll to replace the seal in the truck with the valvebody in place but can be hard to work due to clearance.

the servo shaft o-ring will need the revs band lever removed.

you might get lucky and brake clean dry and rtv the end up good and let cure 24 hrs. I have band aid a couple a while like that.

 

Hmmmph. the local dealership says they can't get any of the parts to do this work. Is this B.S. or am I just not asking the right question.  He asked for the year/model and as soon as I said 85, he shut down. "Can't get anything for that year". What gives.