Disconnect the kickdown linkage and remove air cleaner. Tilt the valve cover towards the carb to remove.

 

Thanks! I just unbolted the brake booster and wiggled it out a little to get it out, it was a lot easier than I thought.

You can delete this! Or I will... Can I do that?

 

Ok, I'll just keep this going I guess.

Last night I was able to remove both valve covers before it got too dark. They were both visibly warped- either from being torqued too much or just from being on there for 29 years and getting hot and cooling down thousands of times.

Even though I had to unbolt my brake booster/master cylinder, the driver's side was still easier than the passenger side- there are so many wires and vacuum hoses routed right over it, and there are P-clamps spot welded to it that hold everything in.

Now for the next issue- luckily I'm at work today so I can machine something if I have to- to make this thing fit into that thing...

So I can fit it into this thing...

 

They should make a grommet that fits that so you dont have to make something. Is that a stamped steel valve cover or cast aluminum? I cant tell from the pic...If it's aluminum you can use the grommet for the Mopar performance valve covers from Summit.

 

Stamped steel.  I ended up making a little adapter deal that should work well enough.  Won't have a chance to put it in till later tonight though.

 

Would highly recommend the cast aluminum valve covers over stamped.

 

Yeah, I wanted those... My wallet didn't...

 

Ok, after lots of cursing and RTV and cutting the shit out of my fingers on my poorly deburred valve covers, I finished! Everything seems to be where it should be.

I replacedy ground cable to the engine  and body with a heavier gauge wire, should I run one to my frame as well? Or is it not worth it?