I don't see a reason to have a volt meter? I don't need a gauge to tell me my battery is dead. I have room for two more gauges in the dash but can't think of any other that I would need. If I can't, that's not a problem.

Might not need a gauge to tell you the batt is dead, but it will tell you the alt is not charging the batt, giving you plenty of time to react before the batt is dead.

I'd always vote for a volt meter.

 

I don't need a gauge to tell me it's too hot, the steam does just fine.
Don't need a oil psi gauge, once it goes low, it's too late anyways.


Actually, speedo is the least important gauge, hence the reason why more race cars have a voltmeter than a speedometer.

Who cares how fast your tires are spinning in mud?

 

I don't need a gauge to tell me it's too hot, the steam does just fine.
Don't need a oil psi gauge, once it goes low, it's too late anyways.

Actually, speedo is the least important gauge, hence the reason why more race cars have a voltmeter than a speedometer.

Who cares how fast your tires are spinning in mud?

and this is from our favorite techno geek...

 

I have no intentions of starting arguments or anything, BUT I'll state my reasonings. If I'm running through mud steam will be coming out from water hitting the exhaust; so I wouldn't be able to differentiate between the two.

I religiously watch the oil gauge when driving any vehicle. I'm human and make errors but Its something I like to monitor. And yes I know that having a gauge or not will not save my bearings when it reads zero.

I can't decide if I want a 5 inch tach or speedometer (78 dash). The ONLY reason I will get a speedometer is because this truck will see the streets. And I don't need to give the cops anymore reasons than I have to to pull me over in a big ugly truck.

 

LOL, ya, no arguments, it's pretty much like george stated. (the oil psi and water remarks were sarcasm)

Seriously, between a speedo and a voltmeter, I'll take the voltmeter every day of the week as long as I have a tach. I can look at the tach and know how fast I'm going. I think most all of us have done it at some point in time. As long as I ain't speeding, the cops cannot pull me over on the assumption I do not have a speedometer.

I also understand that some people have no idea why a volt meter of some type would be important.

why does it matter? That gauge rises up to the middle and never moves for the rest of the trip? I don't even need to look at it

For the most part this is true. If all is well, it will hold a rock steady 13.8-14.4 volts depending on temperature.

So what happens when that gauge suddenly pegs out at 18v+ and boils your battery (green wire full fielded on the frame), taking your electronic ignition and headlights with it? You can wait for the boom and sulfurous fumes, or you can shut it down right away and check your cables. Would have never seen it coming w/o an indicator of sorts. Or the needle that starts waving or just plain reading low.

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As for the tranny temp gauge, I will strongly recommend using the fittings that tap into the fluid line before cooler. The pan temp readings tend to read extremely low and do not rise up with converter temps. Dodges oe trans senders use the cooling line since it senses all of the sudden heat rises out of the converter. Pan temp may reach ~150ish and just hold steady, all the while the converter temp is jumping between 150 and 250, never once showing a fluctuation on the needle.

 

I will take your word on the volts. Never had a battery explode on me. Don't plan on changing that remark either. Thanks for the insight to it.

OH. Just remembered I will probably get a gps for the truck....SO, those cost ~ the same as a decent speedo. And they have a speedo built in. Which leaves me with a 5" tach instead.

For the trans gauge, I did plan to run it off the fluid coming OUT of the trans since that is what needs monitored.

Any other gauges I'm forgetting that might be needed?

 

I will take your word on the volts. Never had a battery explode on me. Don't plan on changing that remark either. Thanks for the insight to it.

OH. Just remembered I will probably get a gps for the truck....SO, those cost ~ the same as a decent speedo. And they have a speedo built in. Which leaves me with a 5" tach instead.

For the trans gauge, I did plan to run it off the fluid coming OUT of the trans since that is what needs monitored.

Any other gauges I'm forgetting that might be needed?

Wait til you finally ship off on deployment. Warm temperatures and overcharging seem semi-common, and you will recognize that rotten egg smell as battery acid is spewing under the seat.

Those are the basic gauges recommended for normal vehicles. EGT is over kill, boost isn't needed, vacuum is not commonly used (it was a factory option, presumably for fuel economy purposes), differential temp is rarely used except on haulers, air pressure only counts for trucks with air, fuel pressure is more for competition, I'd say you have your bases covered.

***If you have trouble adapting the sensing fitting to your cooler lines, a remote filter assembly can make this easier since they usually have unused ports. Napa has some universal remote filter assemblies for $20, combined with the tall filters mentioned in parts interchange, you should have an excellent protection system for your tranny.

 

I don't think I'll get to experience those lovely smells in the afghan mountains. We'll see.

I'll keep the filter in mind. Simplicity and ease of mind works with me.

 

http://www.fleetfilter.com/filter/wix-filter-bases/24764.html

http://ramchargercentral.com/index.php/topic,134996.0.html

Instead of using both included plugs you would just need a simple reducer bushing from 1/2NPT-what ever NPT size your sender is (1/8NPT I think)

jegs or summit may have the same mount for a similar or better price.

 

Andrew,

I've been running the Autometer Sport-Comps in my truck for several years with no problems out of them.

I installed Oil PSI, Oil Temp, Water Temp, Voltmeter and Vacuum gauges in the 2-5/8 flavor plus added a 8000rpm shift light Tach for dessert

Vacuum makes it nice for tuning in the carb and the voltmeter will let me know when my alternator takes a dump in it's diaper leaving me enough time to get it to the trail head before the batteries start getting low

Right now all the gauges are mounted in cups either on top of the dash or below it.  One day when I actually have time and ambition I plan on replacing my dash with one in better shape.  At that time I'm going to make a diamond plate insert and mount all the gauges along with a speedo and fuel gauge to do away with the stock cluster alltogether.

You will definately want to get a tranny temp gauge for sure along with the biggest tranny cooler you can stuff in the core support to keep your 727 happy

 

I agree on what has been said on the Voltmeters, it's one I consider a must.

I have the Z-series gauges, Oil PSI, Water Temp and a Voltmeter. They work just dandy, and I believe they are one of the least expensive in the Autometer line, same quality, just no frills.

 

Thanks for the links Joe. I'll be coming back to this when the engine/trans go in here shortly.

I remember your dash Karl.Just never saw it up close enough to see what ya had. I swapped in the 70's dash to the RC so putting the gauges in will be pretty easy. The dash face was the one with tach, speedo, volts, oil, temp, vacuum, fuel, and alternator. So I have a lot holes I can fill. I actually have a pretty clean 85 dash here from my other truck...

Big 10-4 on the cooler 

 

i am also using the z series gauges trans temp, water temp, oil temp, oil psi, volts, fuel, and sport comp speedo and 8000rpm tach. i hooked up the tranns and oil temp up in remote filters (2qt filters). and am using 2 external tranny coolers and an oil cooler. ( i think i am a little paranoid about overheating). i have no complaints on the gauges and would use them again.