when I do an alinement I just snug the new tie rod ends , so they come apart easy , untill I have the toe in correct, then I torque and pin them .  The same little bottle jack under the nut of the tie rod end works to apply tension and a sharp rap unseats them . An air hammer with a blunt end tool can also apply the "rap" to the side of the taper socket . If I'm tossing the end , or drag link , I don't even remove the cotter pin , I shear it with my impact , smack the things apart and toss them , they are junk anyway.

 

The problem with a pitman arm puller is that it doesn't fit on every ball joint type socket, it's meant to fit a pitman arm and it's kinda big and cumbersome. If you're not careful a ball joint splitter can damage boots and surrounding areas. The areas around where all socket pins go through on all things like drag links, spindles, pitman arms, etc are thick and strong and can take a strong blow from a hammer with very little noticeable disfiguration. I like this method because boots don't get damaged

 

https://i.imgur.com/hTcrBhJ.jpg
I decided to try bigger hammer. Went from a 3lb shorty to a 4 lb long. Struck the points that the male part of the drag link goes through and it popped. After I get this back assembled I'm going to go for tie rod ends. I think I am first going to see if I can clean them to metal their is so much caked on dirt I can't see anthing.

 

I've found a pitman arm puller works well without any beating with a hammer , https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200396076_200396076?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Automotive%20%3E%20Engine%20%2B%20Automotive%20Repair%20Tools&utm_campaign=Performance%20Tool&utm_content=9094017&msclkid=4d169f55130a10a0f101c59f7c07e52c

Ditto, thats what I use now days. Simple, and does not kill the rubber boot if you intend to still use the drag link.

 

I typically use a pickle fork to put tension on the joint and then whack the face of the arm with a hand sledge like Canadian Country Boy described.  Usually pops it loose first try without a lot of drama.

 

I've found a pitman arm puller works well without any beating with a hammer , https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200396076_200396076?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Automotive%20%3E%20Engine%20%2B%20Automotive%20Repair%20Tools&utm_campaign=Performance%20Tool&utm_content=9094017&msclkid=4d169f55130a10a0f101c59f7c07e52c

 

I know it's not a drag link or even near it but the area to hit is the same. I never strike a ball joint or tie rod end or any male ends. I strike the hammer right next to it on the female part. The vibration knocks them loose and is damage free. Sometimes they can be a little stubborn but they will come loose with a decent sized hammer

 

Thanks guys.  Let me see what I can do.

 

I always strike the hammer where the arrows are. 3lbs is a decent weight. A few good steady strikes should make them cooperate. Never hit the male end.

 

first , flip the castle nuts over , the castle end gets peened easily and then will not unthread off the loose stud .

on the wheel end , I put a hydraulic BOTTLE jack under the steering arm out as close to the drag link end as I can , I put some "UP" pressure on arm , THEN smack the nut . The jack supports the arm and allows a good "shot" . you can do the same on the other end ..  a tool , tire rod separator, also  called a "pickle fork" is available , but you need to make sure its Wide enough between its forks that a drag link stud clears , sometimes , one called a ball joint separator fits better . there is also forks available for air hammers ...