I pulled the chassis and drivetrain for my D150 on RC frame project, found here: https://ramchargercentral.com/mopar-trucks/78-d150-conversion/msg1833126/#msg1833126

The Tub/top sat for years, while I played around with the "shorty" truck (and sold it) bought and fixed up a 1st gen (and sold it), bought a 1995 V10 2500 and put a 1st gen in it (and sold it), and bought a 2003 2500 cummins (and sold it). Started "working" on this again, but I had to source another top since it was rusted around the left and right window, and sourced doors since the originals were very rusty.

I then found a 79 W250 to grab the frame and axles. I had the frame chopped (you'll see the weld below in the pics). Then I had it sandblasted. Then I rattle-canned it and stuffed it under the RC.

 

So now the tub is on the frame (3in body lift), and I'm in the process of securing it to the frame.

When I first bought this I figured I would start sanding it down, but I only got started on the right rear quarter panel.  10 years later, it "rusted" a bit.  I'm starting to at least get some primer on it. 

Here's where the project stands:
I have the motor (a 1st gen VE pump)
I have the xfr case
I need a transmission (NV4500 or Getrag)
I'm working on putting the RC tank on the W250 frame
I have a 1st gen radiator support, thinking of grafting that onto my 1978 rad support
I have 1st gen pedals to convert the auto to manual
AND there's about 10,000 other little things that have to be done as well

I plan on working on it a bit as I can until spring, will update as I do work!

 

That's a sweet project. Having already done a CTD conversion in my RC, I'll be watching your build.

 

good deal.

I personally would have waited until the drive-train was in to drop the tub on. Way easier that way. 

I'll be watching this one. good luck. 

 

I personally would have waited until the drive-train was in to drop the tub on. Way easier that way.

I agree (from experience)! But the drive-train isn't complete and THIS project isn't at my house, so I can't have a frame and a tub taking up that much space.

I'm thinking install the attached xfr/trans first, then put the engine on. I've never done it that way and that's a lot of swinging weight but I THINK that would be easier than the engine in and stabbing the tranny from the bottom which I've done and can be a PITA to get it to line up. Let me know if you've had an easier experience either way!

 

I debated similar questions with myself. Granted, the 4bt is shorter and lighter than the 6bt. I decided to install the engine with 46rh transmission already bolted to engine. Then, bolted on the NP241 after securing trans to the trans cross member. It was the easiest route for me.

 

That looks how I had it pictured in my head as I've been thinking about it.  I have the trans crossmember off since I am changing trannys from the 727 that the truck had.  If I attach the getrag/nv4500 to the 6bt, then put it in, I can hang the NP241 like you did after I bolt the trans crossmember to the frame.

Right now it's kinda moot until I come up with the tranny, tho.  I can be finishing the rear body mounts, working on the RC tank transplant, and doing body work while I search.

Thanks for the pic, Mike.  I wish I had a 4bt to stick in this!  I love seeing that 4bt swinging above the engine bay.  It's what I initially wanted to do but at the time I was sourcing the motor, 4bts were (are?) twice as much as a 6bt!

 

If I had to do it over again, I would have swapped in the 6bt. Mainly because of the vibration the 4bt creates. But, a slight increase in idle decreased the vibration somewhat and I only feel the vibration when in drive and stopped at a stop light. I may be going to fluid motor mounts in the future. Otherwise, since doing the new turbo upgrade, fuel pin upgrade, and turning up the fuel screw, the 4bt hauls ass now and I'm quite happy with the new power.

The below pic is of the 6bt/727/np205 that I pulled from the donor truck. The 6bt was seized. But, I raided it for parts and sold the long block. But, that was a lot of weight swinging on the shop hoist. When I pulled it, I had four buddies over to help keep the engine from swinging as we raised it high to get it over the front cross member. Had I pulled the 205 first, it may have been a little easier.

 

Got the bare rear panel covered in primer (panelcovered.jpg).  I also started on the rear mounts.  I'm using the 1979 W250 chopped frame.  It needs the 2 rear body mounts on either side.  I went to get them installed and noticed I was missing one of the rear ones.  I have the  1985 RC chassis from another project that is getting a regular truck bed on it so it won't use the rear mount (donormount.jpg).  The mount came off pretty easy - I have taken out at least two dozen rivets (doing rear shackle flip mostly) and this appears to be the best method I've found (donormount2.jpg).  Let me know if there's an easier way because I have to remove the rear "spare" hanger to put the tank on and it has 3 rivets on each side.  One of my other mounts didn't cooperate AT ALL (tubmountrivets.jpg).  I bent one of my punches (punchfail.jpg), even after MAPP heat (my torch is at my property, this is stored in town).    Had to drill it out to get them out (rivetsout.jpg).  Three of the four rear mounts are on the frame - ran out of bolts for the fourth.  Next part of the project - mount the tank!  I have Jungle's rear tank crossmember, going to fab angle iron for the front tank crossmember.  As I stated, have to remove an existing crossmember to make it work.

 

looks like it's time to buy an air hammer. 

 

You can also take a 3/8" drill & punch through the rivet & then drive them through. When you drill the hole let the out side og the hole touch the side of the hole/rivet & that will help re-leave the "locked in"
Jim

 

Nice Work!  I'm also using a 91.5 W250 frame for my 92 RC Cummins swap.  I have been working on it for years now, but starting to really pick up steam.  I have used most of Jungle's HD suspension parts and finally have a complete rolling chassis.  I found a rust free RC Texas truck and have started the tear down. It is so nice removing the front clip where the bolts dont break and the fender wheels are as they were in 92. 

Keep the updates coming!

 

Still have this RC - trying to get it back on the road. The turn signal switch is worthless - I replaced the cam but the tabs it attaches to are powdered.

I have a couple of 1985 cabs - any advantage/disadvantage to taking one of those steering columns and swapping into the RC?

 

Welcome back!!!