sure , BUT , you need a high pressure pump not a 25 dollar 6 psi carburetor fuel pump , AND you need to regulate the pressure , so price the 2 things then price a complete 5.9 tank pump ( pump and fuel gauge) .
yes if you put 35 psi into a 25 dollar pump it will increase the pressure but how much ? then when the in tank fails completely , you'll be left with 6 psi maybe , because its now drawing thru the in tank pump . I'd replace the pump with the right part , in tank .    are you sure its not the pressure regulator ? 

 

Just installed a new pump in the tank module just seeing if I can add another to help the tank module along.Not going to buy cheep want something to last this truck has been refurbished and I am original owner.Any parts recommendations would be great also thanks for the reply. 

 

Just installed a new pump in the tank module just seeing if I can add another to help the tank module along.Not going to buy cheep want something to last this truck has been refurbished and I am original owner.Any parts recommendations would be great also thanks for the reply.

Throttle body has been rebuilt with new regulator-injectors-tps also

 

The stock pump should be more than adequate for what the TBI system needs.  If it's not supplying enough pressure, then there is something else wrong.  Either you got a bad pump, bad regulator, leak in a line or a wiring problem not putting full voltage to the pump.  Find the real problem and fix that, don't cause more issues by band-aids and other complications.

 

OK will do just has that stumble at times taking off from a stop light drives me crazy.Pump is new,filter new blew compressed air trough all lines when everything was disconnected all new hose since the tank was out,maybe needs to be driven awhile, just put it together Friday also will check all wiring including the ones behind the valve cover also.Thanks

 

Hi everyone new to the forum.Have been batting this one for awhile finally found that the fuel pump was at fault.This truck is bone stock no mods.I was wondering if I can add a inline low pressure fuel pump to work with the tank pump to increase flow,at times it stumbles out of the gate runs fine after getting past that take off point like it is running out of fuel.Any suggestions would be great.Thanks

Have you checked codes? TPS could do something like this.

 

No codes have my own DRBII from ebay I purchased any indicators to look for in the data display?

 

Also noticed seems to be running rich will ck the O2 sensor to see if it is switching properly.

 

No codes have my own DRBII from ebay I purchased any indicators to look for in the data display?

Look at short/long term fuel trims. Plug in DRB to underhood datalink,key on/engine off cold,look at CTS reading.Should be close to ambient temp. Same for IAT sensor. Start engine and note voltage/temp readings as engine warms. Look at TPS voltage with key on/engine off,throttle closed,should be .6-.7 volts,push gas pedal slowly/smoothly to floor. Voltage should raise in a linear fashion with no glitches or dropouts,full throttle should be @4.7-4.8 volts. Repeat test several times,results should be consistent. Monitor MAP sensor reading key on engine off,note voltage reading at idle.

If any of these readings do not show accurately,time to break out multimeter and test for voltage reference signal to each of sensors(5 volts),return signal voltage and each sensor ground. Abnormal readings,start with checking for corrosion/cleaning contacts in big harness connector at back of passenger side valve cover and recheck all sensor tests. Something still amiss with voltage reference,signal return or sensor ground circuit,perform pin out resistance tests from ecu connectors to respective sensor terminals/connectors.
FSM is your friend here.

Fuel pressure tests should be next and include a test drive with gauge attached. O2 sensor readings should be monitored at same time on test drive. Somewhere at this point,direction you need to go for further diagnostics will become apparent.

 

Look at short/long term fuel trims. Plug in DRB to underhood datalink,key on/engine off cold,look at CTS reading.Should be close to ambient temp. Same for IAT sensor. Start engine and note voltage/temp readings as engine warms. Look at TPS voltage with key on/engine off,throttle closed,should be .6-.7 volts,push gas pedal slowly/smoothly to floor. Voltage should raise in a linear fashion with no glitches or dropouts,full throttle should be @4.7-4.8 volts. Repeat test several times,results should be consistent. Monitor MAP sensor reading key on engine off,note voltage reading at idle.

If any of these readings do not show accurately,time to break out multimeter and test for voltage reference signal to each of sensors(5 volts),return signal voltage and each sensor ground. Abnormal readings,start with checking for corrosion/cleaning contacts in big harness connector at back of passenger side valve cover and recheck all sensor tests. Something still amiss with voltage reference,signal return or sensor ground circuit,perform pin out resistance tests from ecu connectors to respective sensor terminals/connectors.
FSM is your friend here.

Fuel pressure tests should be next and include a test drive with gauge attached. O2 sensor readings should be monitored at same time on test drive. Somewhere at this point,direction you need to go for further diagnostics will become apparent.

Thanks for the info will check and post readings.