Drag link removal

VancouverW250 · Apr 8, 2018

I'm steady plugging away on the 89 w250. Next up is the drag link. It's shot. I have both castle nuts loosened and have been soaking it in pb blaster all night. Spent about a min or two hitting the castle nuts with about a 3 lb mini sledge. Also it the drag link itself. And the end of the pitman arm (although I didn't give it the full swing on that). What's the best way to get this off? If it's more hammer where should I be focusing?
https://i.imgur.com/KcboNVL.jpg

dodge82273 · Apr 8, 2018

first , flip the castle nuts over , the castle end gets peened easily and then will not unthread off the loose stud .

on the wheel end , I put a hydraulic BOTTLE jack under the steering arm out as close to the drag link end as I can , I put some "UP" pressure on arm , THEN smack the nut . The jack supports the arm and allows a good "shot" . you can do the same on the other end .. a tool , tire rod separator, also called a "pickle fork" is available , but you need to make sure its Wide enough between its forks that a drag link stud clears , sometimes , one called a ball joint separator fits better . there is also forks available for air hammers ...

Canadian country boy · Apr 8, 2018

I always strike the hammer where the arrows are. 3lbs is a decent weight. A few good steady strikes should make them cooperate. Never hit the male end.

VancouverW250 · Apr 8, 2018

Thanks guys. Let me see what I can do.

Canadian country boy · Apr 8, 2018

I know it's not a drag link or even near it but the area to hit is the same. I never strike a ball joint or tie rod end or any male ends. I strike the hammer right next to it on the female part. The vibration knocks them loose and is damage free. Sometimes they can be a little stubborn but they will come loose with a decent sized hammer

Furyschild · Apr 8, 2018

I've found a pitman arm puller works well without any beating with a hammer , https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200396076_200396076?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Automotive%20%3E%20Engine%20%2B%20Automotive%20Repair%20Tools&utm_campaign=Performance%20Tool&utm_content=9094017&msclkid=4d169f55130a10a0f101c59f7c07e52c

Elwenil · Apr 8, 2018

I typically use a pickle fork to put tension on the joint and then whack the face of the arm with a hand sledge like Canadian Country Boy described. Usually pops it loose first try without a lot of drama.

SuperBurban · Apr 8, 2018

Furyschild said:
I've found a pitman arm puller works well without any beating with a hammer , https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200396076_200396076?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Automotive%20%3E%20Engine%20%2B%20Automotive%20Repair%20Tools&utm_campaign=Performance%20Tool&utm_content=9094017&msclkid=4d169f55130a10a0f101c59f7c07e52c

Ditto, thats what I use now days. Simple, and does not kill the rubber boot if you intend to still use the drag link.

VancouverW250 · Apr 8, 2018

https://i.imgur.com/hTcrBhJ.jpg
I decided to try bigger hammer. Went from a 3lb shorty to a 4 lb long. Struck the points that the male part of the drag link goes through and it popped. After I get this back assembled I'm going to go for tie rod ends. I think I am first going to see if I can clean them to metal their is so much caked on dirt I can't see anthing.

Canadian country boy · Apr 9, 2018

The problem with a pitman arm puller is that it doesn't fit on every ball joint type socket, it's meant to fit a pitman arm and it's kinda big and cumbersome. If you're not careful a ball joint splitter can damage boots and surrounding areas. The areas around where all socket pins go through on all things like drag links, spindles, pitman arms, etc are thick and strong and can take a strong blow from a hammer with very little noticeable disfiguration. I like this method because boots don't get damaged

dodge82273 · Apr 10, 2018

when I do an alinement I just snug the new tie rod ends , so they come apart easy , untill I have the toe in correct, then I torque and pin them . The same little bottle jack under the nut of the tie rod end works to apply tension and a sharp rap unseats them . An air hammer with a blunt end tool can also apply the "rap" to the side of the taper socket . If I'm tossing the end , or drag link , I don't even remove the cotter pin , I shear it with my impact , smack the things apart and toss them , they are junk anyway.

Drag link removal

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