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suit yerself , your the customer after all  ;)    I'm just an old mechanic , not a schooled technician , there are better ways I'm sure .  ;D    but I'd still change the filter , all the work to do so is being done anyway ...
 
only one way to learn. and that is to try.

yes, the newer gasket is for a newer style 727 base 518 trans. so a  you have to have the info for a newer truck.

most dealer do not have anything or get anything for a 85 truck. but if you get a good counter man = not boy he can search and find some things here and there you pay to ship to them from another dealer.

I got the lock for a rear slide window from the local dealer in FL ship from Iowa for example.

the conter boy should have been able to look up that parts # with out issue. or just walk in the back and grab one. they still service 94-up trucks.

a drain plug and cast alum pan are great upgrades when you can but the old fashion way of doing it has worked for 50 yrs.
 
Discussion starter · #46 ·
dodge82273 said:
suit yerself , your the customer after all ;) I'm just an old mechanic , not a schooled technician , there are better ways I'm sure . ;D but I'd still change the filter , all the work to do so is being done anyway ...
Yes yes. I'm going to change the filter without a doubt. Was just saying everybody was saying to get that heavy duty gasket. And I'm NOT a mechanic. So, I get confused pretty quick. ;-)

Bruce
 
the very best solution for curing a leaking 727/518/618 trans pan is to get an aluminum pan (like the B&M etc) and use the Mopar composite gasket = leak-proof pan seal. I also chase each of the case threads and use longer bolts that go all the way through the case (but don't impact anything above it) to get 100% thread contact - otherwise these older cases can strip out. I also surf the hardware store bins for specific sized washers that fit within the recessed area in the aluminum pan without hanging over the edge. However, some the threads do not go all the way through so I trim the bolts so they go as far into the case as possible to get the most threat contact before bottoming out. Takes a bit of patience and careful prep, but in the end you get the best clamping force, and when using those thick aluminum pans with the Mopar gasket man the sealing potential goes way up.

this is a good aluminum pan - it's a 'deep' pan that holds a couple extra quarts of fluid too -

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bmm-10280/overview/year/1975/make/dodge/model/ramcharger

this is the Mopar gasket - the very best on the planet -



 
Discussion starter · #48 ·
What's the advantage of the deeper pan (besides u can put more trans fluid in).  Why does more trans fluid help?  Oh. And the 727 vs 904. That's the shape of the pan/gasket?  727 has the little jutting area on the corner ?
 
If you have the old style pan (3 speed 727) something like the B&M will nearly double the fluid capacity, which puts less stress on the fluid and lets it cool down before it goes between friction materials again.
Heat kills. Here's a good quick look at the issue:
http://www.tciauto.com/tc/trans-life-expectancy/

I always sniff the tranny fluid when checking the level. Any burnt smell means it's time for a fluid change. And it means I probably abused the tranny and it may need service. Changing often (75,000 miles or less) is good PM. With my Dakota, I would use the old tranny fluid in the NP231 transfer case, which I changed two or three times as often because the slip yoke would pull dust inside.

Towing? Or if you're going to do any serious offroad, you should have a trans cooler besides the radiator in-tank one. They're not that hard to plumb yourself. Just avoid any metal tube on frame surface wear by isolating with rubber sleeves or routing hoses instead of tubing over crossmembers, around the radiator support etc. And avoid any sharp bends in either tubing or hose.

Yeah, the 727 pan has the dipstick well. The 904 is almost rectangular, with one corner angled off some.
 
the deeper pan ? well if its an aluminum one , it made of a rigid material , like the transmission itself , and does not bend when you snug the bolts . More fluid ? well the idea is that there is more fluid to cool , and it may help the trans run cooler / last longer , and its kewl too , same as aluminum valve covers ya know ?  shape ? each transmission has a different shape to the pan , so people get to know which trans it is BY the pan's shape , me , I don't write that down in my memory . Its too easy to get the right  filter kit .

  Auto trans pan gaskets , what ever make of auto , have long been known to at least seep . The gaskets have gotten better . Rigid aftermarket pans help .  New cars do not seep any fluids , if they do it is no longer acceptable ,it is  considered a "problem " that needs to be repaired . Times and autos changed .  Many enthusiasts will not accept seepage period , even from an older auto that did that from day 2 .That is not wrong .  You asked for advice on how to stop a leak , and got some very good answers , from all vantage points  .  Leaks wash off road dust , seepage collects it .
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
Dodge 82273. Indeed I have gotten some great info. And I love ur last statement.
"Leaks wash off road dust. Seepage collectsnit"

Hilarious.
 
Aftermarket pans with a drain plug of course make it possible to drain all the fluid into a container. Used to need a trashcan lid-sized catch basin for the whole pan, and with the crossmember in the way on the Dakota I still spilled every time. [Hint- pull the dipstick out partway first!]

Plenty of empty space below the pan on the W200.

Don't remember one being in the 727 pan, but the A518 stock pan had a donut-shaped magnet in the bottom to attract iron particles. A drain plug pan will commonly have this in the plug, so you could do frequent fluid changes without filter change if you're so inclined or don't have the time. Only go further if there's metal on the magnet. Personally, there are enough plastic parts that I always want to check the filter for bits of rubber seals, solenoid housings, etc -- any of which are an indication I'm looking at a big $$$ bill. :'(
 
Is this seepage?

This is the NP205 on the W200 I almost bought - one that gave me the bug a few years ago.
I did end up buying the tailgate from the rig when the next owner chopped it down to a flatbed.
 

Attachments

Looks normal for an old NP205 to me.  I'd kill to have that PTO though, lol.
 
that is seepage with a slight leak starting at the output , what I don't know is if it was a leak that stopped because it finally ran out of oil , when they have been seeping that long , to build up that much dirt , I'd look to see if the area around the fill hole is cleaner , like it was topped off at each PM , oil change/grease job , call it what ya like ...  check the pto speed before ya try to power a rotary screw ...  ;) 
 
and for petes sake..safty glasses and a scraper would get most of the crud off and the first work order.

that was my first thought also. got oil?  that's one of those seeps/leaks you top off every month.

so how many u-joints you got? 8-9?  they got zerks for grease?  when you replace them buy good solid joints with zirks on the cap for PM service every month.

5 gallon bucket with a pail pump is a nice way to get to know the truck. LOL!  it will take most a 5 gallon bucket of gear oil to service it.

on the exfer there is a drain plug/fill plug but you can remove the lowest bolt on the rear cover of the front output shaft to drain the last qrt out of the xfer.  tras fluid and xfer are seprate oils in each unit. FYI some xfers use trans fluid is why I mention it. good ol gear drive divorced unit like that uses a gear oil.

you trans must be a short shaft 727 with a bolt on yoke for the small jack shaft.

grab it in the middle and see if it wiggles any. the slip yokes wear and wobble. check all the slip yokes for wobble while your at it.


check the axle u-joints for slop and don't skimp on them. busted axle blues if you do.
 
Pay attention, that is not his truck.

Also, the NP205 does not necessarily use "gear oil", depending on the climate, 30wt motor oil may be best.
 
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