[Overkill]

yup thats what i have about 1/8 turn before the truck responds EVEN though everything is tight

Just kinda annoying having the truck drift/dart depending on road cond

 

[spittindurt]

Thats nothing befor my dad set up his steering box on his 74 bronco it had a good 1/4 turn befor it responded. Lets just say you never drove it above 50 and narrow busy roads were "fun".

Just figure that all the oncomming cars are going to get out of the way cuz well, its a dodge and we own the roads.

 

[RXT]

There is a way to adjust the caster without changing the ball joints. You can use shims between the axle and the front springs.

When you installed the 6 inch lift, I'm gonna guess that the front springs came with shims already installed. This is a common practice with manufacturers of lift springs, and it's done so that you can still hook up your stock driveshaft. However these shims can alter the caster angle built into your axle and cause wandering. If the springs came with shims, try removing them or turning them so that the thick end points to the rear of the truck.

If the springs do not have those preinstalled shims, you can still buy them and install them. You can increase the caster angle beyond what the factory specified to offset the taller tire's greater leverage. However once you alter the caster, you should also readjust the toe.

Ed

 

[Overkill]

the truck has a 4" kit and i do not have shims on the front

On that little point on the adjusement how do i check the preload on them take off the upper nut and lossen the lower? and use the special tool < time to call snapon> and do that that is the only thing that it can be ? and s there a way to check if the preload without taking anything off? i know i have no play with the prybar under the wheel method

 

[Overkill]

of so i picked up the OTC tool from my parts place OTC 7080 Thanks coop Anything special i need to do ??


I HOPE THIS CLEARS UP THE $%^&*^& problem lolololol

 

[Overkill]

Ok so i Took off the upper ball joint nut and use the tool oil it up and mark the sleeve and then make sure it spins back and forth and then put it back to the same spot and used a wrench 20!!!!!! foot pounds Both sides figured since i was in there take out the sleeve and replace them did that and tightned to 42 foot pounds put it all back toghter and guess how it rides


SAME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


going to adjust the rear hub if i can find the right info on how to

 

[Overkill]

Ok so i tighten the rear bearings to 130 foot pounds and back off 1/8 turn as stated in alldata

Ended up 1/8 turn tighter then what i had it at lolololol

Gonna see what happens on the way to work.

 

[Overkill]

Well i am at work didnt help to much

 

[Patrick S.]

Heya Overkill,
I'm assuming you have power steering on your RC. The box you have is a Saginaw model 800 (or so), there are preload adjustments that must be done to them before you install them on your truck. I went to the parts store myself and checked them out. This box is used in HUNDREDS of other trucks and when they're made the working preload and sector shaft mesh aren't set from the reman factory because of how many different applications they're used on.
Here's a partial list:
AMC Wagoneer/Cherokee 63-91 (fullsize models- not XJ)
Chevrolet Suburban/ Full-size blazer/Pickups
W/D series Dodges/ Plymouth traildusters
well you get the idea

Anyway, this is how you set preload. First you'll need a dial indicator in-lb. and ft-lb. torque wrench (a beam style should work ok too), a shop press, a vise, various combo wrenches, a screwdriver or allen wrench set.

Here goes:
1. Remove the box from the vehicle, detaching the pitman arm as well.
2. Take the box to the shop press mount it with the rag joint/ input shaft pointing towards the floor. Press on the rear cap and remove retaining snap ring w/ screwdriver, slowly retract press and remove end cap and plug spring. Remove box from press.
3. Set up box in vise. Inside the box there will be a square plug threaded into the control valve. That plug is the worm bearing preload adjuster plug, turning it in tightens the worm shaft, turning it out loosens it.
4. Find a way to attach your torque wrench to the input shaft/rag joint (a socket and duct tape might do the trick) and turn the shaft back and forth while tightening the adjuster plug. You should measure between 18 and 22 in-lbs. Ignore breakaway torque, the amount of force it takes to start moving the shaft.
5. Next adjust the sector shaft. The sector shaft adjuster screw is opposite where the pitman arm attaches (on the top of the box), the screw will be adjusted by undoing the locknut, and then turning the screw with either an allen wrench or a screwdriver (it really depends on the box manufacturer, model, weather- lots of things). Turning it in tightens it, out loosens it. Turn it in until resistance in the input shaft increases slightly, about 5 in-lbs over your previous reading. If it feels notchy as you turn the input back and forth, back the screw off some until it feels smooth.
6. The box is now adjusted. Reinstall the plug spring and end cap, with the tapered end against the cap (if the spring is tapered- sometimes it's just a standard coil which goes in either way). Use the shop press to compress the spring and cap back into the box bore, and reinstall the retaining snap ring.
7. Reinstall the box into the truck, connect all of the steering components.
8. Double check play at steering wheel, front wheels should turn as soon as the wheel turns. Some play might be noticeable, but it should be minimal- like 1- 10 degrees free play before tension is felt in the wheel.
9. At this point your box SHOULD be completely adjusted, and there should be some slack in the box to prevent excessive wear on the ball nut and sector gear. If steering feels notchy, back off sector shaft adjuster screw.

This last step is pretty critical:
Jack up your front end, turn the wheels full lock left, fill the pump resevoir halfway, start your engine (make sure the e-brake is applied and the tranny is in neutral or Park), then turn the wheel back and forth completely at least 20 times (seriously 20), then fill the resevoir until full, turns wheel back and forth another 5 times. Shut off your engine, lower the truck back down, and you're set.
That last step purged the air from your power steering system, box, pump, lines. Air in your power steering will cause sloppy, erratic, and difficult-easy-difficult steering feel, and sometimes wander.

Sorry for the long read. I hope this helped. Alldata should have the manufacturer specified worm bearing, and sector shaft pre-load adjustment specs if you want to double check. Good luck.

 

[Cruisin_RC]

On my 98 Ford I had a similar thing. It would feel fine sometimes, then others it would dart side to side. I rebuilt the entire front end, all new Moog parts and everything. It was better, but still the problem was there. I got an idea one day, and tightened the wheel bearings. A shop put the new bearings in, and the problem started a couple of weeks later. After I put a little more tightness on them, the problem was gone. It rides and drives like when it was new. Does it ever have a feeling like the shocks are bad, and that something big feels loose? Same thing mine was doing.,,,,Cruisin

 

[Overkill]

Cruisin Everything i mean everything i installed and everything WAS DOUBLE and tripple checked all ok It just seems like there is like min 1/8 turn untill the steering box responds.

But partick i am running a ARG box so that should be pretty easy since it it a new box thanks i will try that TONIGHT i hope. i Always have thought and still do think its in the gear box(play).

 

[Overkill]

partick i did the adjustment it was on the input shaft where the shaft slips on on the ARG box just so you know i tightned it slighty seems better but will take it out for a ride tommorrow

hope this is it

 

[Patrick S.]

I haven't worked on one of those boxes, but by looking at them they seem pretty similar to the sag, and I pretty sure the control valve assembly is identical, but way more user friendly. Don't be afraid to tighten that sector/pitman shaft more than what I told you, as I'm sure the aftermarket box has stronger gears. But if it starts to feel notchy back off the adjuster, that notchy feeling is the gears binding.
But always do the input shaft/worm shaft preload first, then the sector/pitman shaft. The worm shaft preload provides most of the feel, and the sector shaft controls the resistance and response.
And I'm sure you checked this about 900 times over, but recheck the torque on the pitman arm, I think it's between 150 and 200 ft-lbs. If it's not torqued right it MIGHT wiggle on the sector/pitman shaft and cause a little trouble.
AND, one final kind of far-fetched idea I had in a dream (not really) was the tilt mechanism ball joint, if it's worn then you will have play there too. The best way I can think of checking that is to have a buddy hold with a killer kung-fu grip onto the center shaft while you turn the wheel back and forth.
I have an strange question for you now: Did you torque your suspensions bushings with the truck in the air, or was it on the ground? You may call me crazy, but that is absolutely crucial. The bushings have a "memory" of where they were when they were torqued. If you torqued them while the suspension was unloaded, and then you set the truck on the ground the bushings will fight against their mounts and try to unload the suspension (specifically they will actually lift the truck up). If that's the case, just untorque them, and then retorque them while the truck is on the ground.

I don't want to send you on a wild goose chase, I'm just trying to think of every possible thing that could mess with your steering, even a little. Lastly, how do you like those headers?? Do you know if they are 50 state legal? I'm currently in WY, but I'll be moving back to CA soon. I raced my buddy in his Probe last night, he has the base engine, and he still cooked my sausage. So I need to get a little power back.
Anyway good luck! I hope I helped.

 

[offroader_dodge]

the steering box shold be checked for excessive play while engine is running,there will always be a little bit,so dont give the steering box all the blame.i would consider airing down the tires to about 25 and see if it gets worse,if not,put air back to 30.how about balance?do wheels run true on the balancer?what model of tires are you running.we are all trying to help,and all the questions have been asked,but i'm tossing in these possibilities,theres got to be something we missed.

 

[Patrick S.]

offroader_dodge brings up a good point about checking play with the engine running.
While the engine is running, the pump supplies the control valve in the box with flow and the torsion bar at the input shaft triggers the appropriate valve in the control valve assembly to provide power assist during turns. There isn't exactly an adjustment for the torsion bar (at least none that I know of), but they came in different diameters depending on application based on the weight of the vehicle, steering resistance, and linkage type.
The torsion bar itself is about 1.5" maybe 2" long, and the diameters that I've personally measured have been like a little thicker than 1/4" to slightly less than 1/8". I have no idea what came in what or anything that technical. All I know is thicker bars came in heavier vehicles and thinner in lighter ones.
In my opinion though I don't think that modifying your torsion bar or control valve will change very much. Maybe a different pump will help tighten things up; vane type pumps provide more flow and pressure than a slipper, or roller type. AGR has a pump, but what type it is, is beyond me. Saginaw (the AGR stuff is based on Sag design) used all three types, and telling them apart externally is impossible, they used the same case.

 

[Overkill]

Partick the adjustment worked wonders The Agr box doest have any type of adjustment in the rear of the case it is actually in the front on the shaft side so like i said i tightned it down avout 1/8 turn and WHAT A DIFFERENCE

the true test will be tommorrow on my way to work

will let you know and thanks

 

[Ram1985Custom]

Good luck, I hope it works for ya!

 

[Patrick S.]

I'm glad I could help out! After everything's all said and done let me know how you like that box, I need to get a new one and that AGR box seemed pretty sweet. Take it easy Overkill!