[Overkill]

running 32-34 psi and i am running 10" rims to tell you the truth i felt something was "not right" even when i had the 33" but when i went over to the 35" you can feel it much more i rechecked all the rear hardwear and the front u bolts all good

today im gonna check the other wheel bearing and the shackles


So are out trucks known for the "weak" front clips where the box mounts like the older chevys ?? no right we have a different frame setup

 

[Slanted_Mind]

You probably would have seen it by now R&Ring the box twice, but check the frame for cracks around the steering box. Watch the frame closely as you have a helper turn the steering wheel lock-to lock.

 

[chrysler300le]

No Dodge trucks are not known for the frame to crack like the Chevys do. They can crack though, just not as likely as a Chevy.

 

[Overkill]

well dont know what made me do it or relize it but when the truck is off and you turn the wheel i get 1/8 slack untill to gets hard !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1 so im like WTF i get out and turn the steering shaft by hand and look the play is in between the input shaft and the output shaft !!!!!!!!!!!!111

Saturday im gonna go to autohore and pick up a STOCK reman box and see

Im starting the AGR boxes are crap!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[chrysler300le]

i think you can adjust that play with the screw adjustment

 

[Overkill]

did that didnt help i thnk it is made to have a tiny bit of slack

i checked 3 different reman boxes today same results with "slack" so i am ruling out the box

Going to check the front u bolts tommorrow

 

[Overkill]

took apart the front u bolts and antisized them sount something worth looking into with a load on the steering (tire against curb) the drag link joint moves up and down yet when you move it by hand it feels fine

Going to change it monday-tuesday

so as of now

rear u bolts checked
rear hub bearings checked
rear springs checked

front springs checked
front ubolts checked
FR wheel bearing checked
tie rods checked
gear box checked
rag joint checked
steering shaft checked
Shocks checked
Alightment checked was at 0 deg not at about 1/8 inch toe in

All above are new less then a year most less then 6 months

 

[Overkill]

Update

Changed the Draglink Even though it didnt seem loose the steering is better now The new draglink is also 1/4 inch longer so now my steering wheel is now centered again

Also saw that my homemade steering shaft has some play in the u joint so next week i guess i will be ordering a borgenson shaft Im guessing the little that was in the draglink and the little in the shaft is adding up with the 35"

 

[offroader_dodge]

yes,my 35's made a noticeable change in the steering,i put the block under the steering arm and fixed up the coupler,now mine drives like it did before the lift and big tires.

 

[Overkill]

my friend was like well the steering has a Little play because thats how it is then add a little play in the draglink and a little play in the steering shaft and x that with 35" mud tires lolol

Its funny because in your hand the parts seem tight but then undere pressure you see the little play


200.00 for the shaft and a new ragjoint

Anyone know of anyplace with a better price?

 

[Overkill]

my friend was like well the steering has a Little play because thats how it is then add a little play in the draglink and a little play in the steering shaft and x that with 35" mud tires lolol

Its funny because in your hand the parts seem tight but then undere pressure you see the little play


200.00 for the shaft and a new ragjoint

Anyone know of anyplace with a better price?

 

[Overkill]

my friend was like well the steering has a Little play because thats how it is then add a little play in the draglink and a little play in the steering shaft and x that with 35" mud tires lolol

Its funny because in your hand the parts seem tight but then undere pressure you see the little play


200.00 for the shaft and a new ragjoint

Anyone know of anyplace with a better price?

 

[Patrick S.]

Heya Overkill, you're probably right about not needing to switch to a cross-steer setup, but when you checked your alignment how was your caster adjustment? Your camber/caster IS adjustable btw, there are aftermarket adjustment kits by Moog, basically they screw into the upper ball joint mount and move the ball-joint around for the required adjustment. You gotta be careful with when using these kits because ball-joint preload is crucial- if they're loose even 12-in/lbs you'll have steering problems similar to what you're having now. Also, even if your caster is in spec but at like say .6 positive you're going to get wander during cross winds. Finally, check to see that your steering components aren't bent. Check out Summit for that steering shaft, and get a u-joint to replace the rag joint, and another to replace the coupler link at the box.
Now a question for you, do you know what type of locker I should use in the front of my RC?

 

[turnerm]

Well, I know what you're going through, partially.

I have an 88 rc with 4" lift and Pitman drop arm.

I changed my steering shaft coupler, ball joints, bearings and then I realized that there is slack in the steering box.
So I got a reman steering box at NAPA, installed it, installed a brand new Pitman arm, and same crappy steering.

So I decided to look real closely. I knelt next to the front left wheel, grabbed the steering shaft coupler and tried to turn it back and forth while watching the output shaft/Pitman arm.
I realized that the play in the steering is ALL from the steering box. Not the shaft coupler, not the tie rods or bearings or anything else.

ONLY the steering box had any play. And the play is significant. The steering wheel can turn 1/4 turn before the wheels do.

This is from a reman box. I thought I got another bad box, but after reading your posts, it seems like they all are that way.

How the heck is it possible for all steering boxes to have this ridiculous amount of play?
Yes, I adjusted the screw and no dice.

This is nuts. There is no way that should be normal.

 

[Overkill]

IT HAS TO BE THE DAM BOX i changed the dragling to be safe and i STOLE my friends borgenson shaft lololol untill he relized he had no steering lololollolol NO CHANGE!!!!!!!!!!

Now patrick When i rebuilt the axles i never touched the upper ball joint mount because they didnt want to move. Is there any way of checking them of finding out if then can be the case ?? wouldnt i have play in the upper joint when checking??

 

[offroader_dodge]

block wheels,jack up one side under axle tube,and give wheel an upward pry with a big bar,have someone do this while you watch ball joints,if there's any play this may be your problem.but i wonder if the lift is playing a part in this,and i have to ask how badly this problem is now,does it try to change lanes? or does it wander some?how long have you been driving this truck?

 

[Overkill]

the ball joints are pretty new i greesed the uppers today and checked them NO play

wander some more on some roads i have owned this truck 6 years

No short cuts were done with anything the lift or nothing

any other questions shoot

 

[turnerm]

I'm in the same boat.

I've eliminated just about everything.

Besides, I SEE the play in the box. Nowhere else. How can steering boxes come new with play

 

[Overkill]

how loose? and where

 

[MudFlap]

You guys gotta realize these trucks aren't made to handle like sports cars. There's gonna be slack in the steering. I just replaced my gearbox yesterday ( see http://ramchargercentral.com/boards/index.php?board=3;action=display;threadid=54726 ) I still have some slack, just not as bad. I'd say prolly 1/8th of a turn, which is acceptable. I changed my gearbox 'cause it had more slack than that, the steering was too tight and I couldn't drive straight. I tried adjusting the set screw on top of the box, but managed to cause all the seals to leak like sieves.