I want to purchase a ramcharger soon and do a cum ins swap and i wanted to know whats the best year of the ram chargers? and is there anything i should be aware of doing this
Shadow 1495
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...while OE 5-lug 1/2-ton RC axles can survive behind/under a Cummins, if you have any plans to take it on real off road trails and/or want tires bigger than 33s you should definitely use the 8-lug axles under the donor Cummins truck, and I'd recommend shortening the donor frame and using it vs the RC frame - lots stronger. However, I think you'll be fine with the OE 241 t-case vs the donor Cummins 205 - I did a Cummins 6BT complete swap in a 93 RC and I retained the OE RC 241 t-case.
Obviously there is a ton of 'work' involved with a Cummins swap into anything, so stating which RC is the best candidate for such a swap is kind of subjective. Typically all of the the driveline is swapped out, so the real question becomes about 1) wiring, and 2) features. The matching 89-93 RCs will 'match' better regarding wiring...but if you want a removable top then the 70's models are it...but the 80-88 models will also work, so really if you're looking for advice I'd recommend getting the RC with the most features you want, grab a complete donor truck, and start wrenchin'. And it is WAY easier to have a 4x4 truck if you start with a 4x4 RC and donor truck. If you want a nice ride you'll want to dig deep into leaf spring upgrades, and I'd recommend scanning all the threads of Cummins RC swaps, including my 93 RC/Cummins truck for ideas -
Link to Cummins swaps into RCs - Cummins Diesel Swaps - links to threads -
My 93 Cummins RC - "Oxx" - '93 RC 'Cummins Sport'...
Also scan this thread on how to 'decomputerize' your Dodge - "De-computerize your Dodge"
and really all of these threads in the diesel section will glean a ton of info - Diesel Talk
The big question I/we have for you is this - why the Cummins swap? If it's for increased economy you'll not recover the cost involved with the swap to make a swap balance out. The Cummins offers several perks, but there are also drawbacks, one of those included emissions - some county's (like mine) require diesel smog checks, others do not.
My 93 was a nice conversion, and I gained about 4 mpg average. But...if I were to do it all over again I wouldn't do it at all - I'd have just beefed up the 360 that was in it and kept is just as-is. IOW, while a very successful build...the Cummins swap was just not worth it.
- Sam
Obviously there is a ton of 'work' involved with a Cummins swap into anything, so stating which RC is the best candidate for such a swap is kind of subjective. Typically all of the the driveline is swapped out, so the real question becomes about 1) wiring, and 2) features. The matching 89-93 RCs will 'match' better regarding wiring...but if you want a removable top then the 70's models are it...but the 80-88 models will also work, so really if you're looking for advice I'd recommend getting the RC with the most features you want, grab a complete donor truck, and start wrenchin'. And it is WAY easier to have a 4x4 truck if you start with a 4x4 RC and donor truck. If you want a nice ride you'll want to dig deep into leaf spring upgrades, and I'd recommend scanning all the threads of Cummins RC swaps, including my 93 RC/Cummins truck for ideas -
Link to Cummins swaps into RCs - Cummins Diesel Swaps - links to threads -
My 93 Cummins RC - "Oxx" - '93 RC 'Cummins Sport'...
Also scan this thread on how to 'decomputerize' your Dodge - "De-computerize your Dodge"
and really all of these threads in the diesel section will glean a ton of info - Diesel Talk
The big question I/we have for you is this - why the Cummins swap? If it's for increased economy you'll not recover the cost involved with the swap to make a swap balance out. The Cummins offers several perks, but there are also drawbacks, one of those included emissions - some county's (like mine) require diesel smog checks, others do not.
My 93 was a nice conversion, and I gained about 4 mpg average. But...if I were to do it all over again I wouldn't do it at all - I'd have just beefed up the 360 that was in it and kept is just as-is. IOW, while a very successful build...the Cummins swap was just not worth it.
- Sam
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15,529 Posts
nooo you don't...especially if it's a 1st Gen 6BT in the near-original 160hp/400tq power rating - I would, sure - I wouldn't think twice about it...but it may not be essential. The V8s made more hp and almost that much tq, so I'd say it's a wash. BUT...a Cummins is made for towing, and towing at those power levels will likely grind the ring & pinion teeth down prematurely. Now - juice up the Cummins and yah there's an above average chance of breaking parts, so in that light I'd still recommend a D70 or 14b rear end that is designed to handle the kind of instant / sustained torque of a Cummins.
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15,529 Posts
the diesel frames were taller, and might have used thicker channel than the gassers - at least the early 90's diesel frames were taller - I wonder if the 3/4 and 1-ton gasser frames were the same-same as the diesel frames - I think the diesel frames came with a green tag on them. Either way, taller and thicker and both very big benefits - not sure about hardened but definitely much 'beefier'.
- Sam
- Sam
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