[PowerWagonPete]

Four inches of backspacing is about the max for all our Dodges, Wrecker, and 16 inches is the smallest diameter that will fit over the calipers on 3/4-tonners.  For a full-timer with the 44 front axle, I wouldn't go wider than eight. 

 

[PowerWagonPete]

Thanks guys.

Any suggestions on what to do to upgrade those inferior parts?

I'll look to upgrade anything that's upgradeable when I take off the wheels (bearings, joints... Etc), any help/pointers would be greatly appreciated.

The ultimate bolt-in upgrade is a Dana 60F with the solid drive flanges instead of lockout hubs, Wrecker, but if you don't overly abuse the front axle setup you have now and keep it properly maintained, you shouldn't have too many problems with it.

 

[PowerWagonPete]

Alternatively you can swap the knuckles and everything outboard from a '80-'93 8 lug D44 and gain a more conventional hub setup that is a little more durable.

You're thinking of the '85-'93 central disconnect axle outers, Lanty. '80-'84 have lockouts.

 

[PowerWagonPete]

Doesn't matter, they are all the same hub and bearing setup and would be an upgrade over the full time 4WD bearing design. '80-'93 knuckles, hubs, spindles, etc are basically the same and will swap. If the truck is left full time the hubs can be locked all the time or CAD pucks can be installed to keep it engaged.

Yeah Lanty, the cool thing is with this particular method on the 200's is you don't have to swap the rear axle out to match a larger bolt pattern like on the half-tons. Another alternative would be to slap an entire '85-'93 axle assembly on there and lock the CAD. The older versions would be a better match due to the lack of anti-lock brakes.

 

[PowerWagonPete]

Thank you PowerWagonpete, would the current set up be able to handle 400-500 hp? I'm not really into offroading, I'm looking into making it kind of a muscle truck (slightly aggressive stance, fat meaty tires, relatively loud exhaust.. Etc), in other words I'm looking to make it my version of the lil red express.

Having said that, how hard is it to change to a Dana 60F for a rookie like me (I've recently changed the radiator which was literally my first ever mechanical work)?

Thanks again for your input.

It's a bolt-in swap if you can find one with all the specific mounting hardware included like on, perhaps, a parts truck. You'd also need the front driveshaft, which is available as a remanufactured item through parts stores, considering it would have to be about three inches shorter than the one that's on there now.

With big wheels and lots of power, Wrecker, you'd end up snapping U-joints and twisting driveshafts before breaking anything else. LOL