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LOWERING YOUR TRUCK

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338K views 991 replies 107 participants last post by  Dieselbikin  
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#1 ·
I HAVE NOTICED THAT A FEW OF YOU WANT TO KNOW HOW TO LOWER YOR TRUCK. WELL I HAVE A FEW TRICKS THAT I HAVE USED ON ALL THREE OF MY TRUCKS AND THOUGHT I WOULD SHARE THEM WITH YOU. TO DO THE FRONT YOU BELIEVE UNTIL YOU LOOK AT A PAIR, BUT I USE 1 TON TRUCK LOWER CONTROL ARM AND THE 1 TON COIL SPRINGS. THE REASON FOR THESE LOWER CONTROL ARMS IS THAT THEY HAVE ABOUT A 2 &1/2" SPRING POCKET THIS LOWERS THE TRUCK ABOUT 4 & 1/2". TO PUT THESE CONTROL ARMS ON YOU WILL HAVE TO DRILL THE MOUNT WHERE THE CONTROL ARM BOLTS TO THE FRAME AND USE THE BOLT FROM THE 1 TON TRUCK . YOU WILL ALSO HAVE TO CUT THE MOUNT WHERE YOUR BUMP STOP BOLTS TO ABOUT AN INCH & WELD A STEEL PLATE TO THE REST OF THE MOUNT AND PUT ON A FLAT SNUBBER. YOU DON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT BALL JOINTS. THE BALL JOINTS FROM THE 1 TON CONTROL FITS IN THE HALF TO SPINDLE. IF YOU WANT TO GO AN IN LOWER USE THE STOCK SPRING FROM THE HALF TON. BUT, I DO RECOMEND THAT IF YOU DO USE THESE CONTROL ARMS THAT YOU ADD SOME BRACING TO THE LOWER CONTROL ARM. THE BRACING KEEPS THE CONTROL ARM FROM FOLDING IF YOU TEND TO BOTTOM OUT. YOU CAN DO THIS IN A FEW HOURS ON A WEEKEND. THE REAR IS PRETTY STRAIGHT FORWARD EITHER FLIP IT OR USE DROP SHACKLES FOR A CHEVY TRUCK & PULL LEAF SPRINGS. I HAVE DONE BOTH AND HAD NO PROBLEMS WITH EITHER. IF I EVER DO THIS DROP TO A DODGE TRUCK AGAIN I WILL TAKE PICTURES & POST THEM.
 
#980 ·
You can't actually state that because not all springs are the same
Van LCA's are good for 1 1/2-2" drop depending on your springs i've seen more drop than that with weak springs
I've lowered countless Dodge trucks like this over the last 35 years or so & not all are alike
 
#981 ·
When I ever get done with the warlock 4x4 I have a 77 2 wd warlock I bought for a few parts. I plan to drop it I was planing to go a 4 link rear set up and the van LCA s in the front.
 
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#984 ·
BrianT said:
well where did that rear end come from ...? i wluga drop my 2wd 85 swb truck once i get the rest of the body done lol ... ugh i got so much to do ...
Click to expand...
Looks like a fabricated 9" housing for a drag car. I'm going to narrow the Dana 60 that's in my D350 and convert it to 5 lug and do a spring-under to lower it.
 
#986 ·
88mopar318 said:
I have thought about raising all of the steering components (box, idler arm, etc.) and notching and boxing the frame where needed. Although it would be quite an undertaking to gain maybe 1-1.5" of clearance. I'm not sure if there would be another solution.

Oh yea, post some pics of your project!
Click to expand...
I did this on a junk frame
You can't move the steering box & stuff up
It takes a rack & pinion to do it
 
#987 ·
R
#988 ·
Hi guys

Can anyone make a simpel list to easy lower my 86 RC ??

There are so much options but never a clear concreet answer to do it.

Wich year chevy c1500 lowering shackles do you need, wich year and model van lca's etc etc..??

I live in the netherlands so used parts aren't easy to come by here so i must know exacty what to order or search for.

Thnx
Rico

thnx

Rico
 
R
#990 ·
would this end this never ending discussion.... ???

I think i finally found a company that sells lowering spindles,axle flip kit, airride and shackles for the pre 94 rams.

Plug and play .

Check it out!

X2 industries!

1978-1993 Dodge Ram, Charger, Trailduster 2" Drop Spindles

Model: [DG7893DRM2]

1970-1993 Dodge Ram Charger 150 2" Drop Shackle w/ zerk

Model: [SHA-DO7893

1974-1993 Dodge Ram, D150, D250, D350, Charger 6" Axle Flip Kit
[FL-79DRC256] Your Price: $279.95

:D

can any one tell if this is a good company and products ?
 
R
#991 ·
Hopefully some are still active here, as I'm in the process of reassembly and have some questions.

First, I cut off the bump stop as indicated in a lowering thread I was reading, Now I have quite a space to put in the spring. But loosely attaching the upper and lower ball joints I'm noticing the spring is very loose with the truck in the air, I can pull it in and out. Do you have to just line it up as you lower the truck down on the wheel later on, or do I need some sort of stop to keep it in there. One side is stock, the other I cut 1/2 a coil to correct for the lean.

Second, the torque specs. I'm using Haynes Online manual, and they don't list a torque for the upper and lower ball joints for the 2WD, anyone know those?

Third, the lower control arm torque spec is 210 ft-lbs. Is that right? I was just loosely assembling it all tonight and my wrench (1/2" drive and only goes up to 150) was set to 110 so I thought I'd just go with it until it clicked. At that torque I couldn't move the arm at all, I had to loosen it off to get the steering knuckle in. Is this normal? My thought was to tighten it once full assembled but 210 seems like a lot.

Last, the alignment. I replaced the tie rod ends and just counted threads to get close, but I'm assuming that because of the lowering the camber will be in, so I installed the cam bolts with the bolt all the way out to be close before I get it aligned. Does anyone who's done this remember the cam bolt positions once aligned to get close? I've got the front and rear both all the way outboard as I thought I read somewhere that even fully adjusted the camber is slightly negative.

** I'll also point out that the kit listed above is just using Dakota arms, you have to do all the same mods to it listed in the instructions **
 
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