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Hard starting on Dodge 318

19K views 13 replies 3 participants last post by  DRW60  
It's gonna take me like 10 minutes to process everything you just said, but I like that you can and will test.

http://ramchargercentral.com/technical-discussion/dodge-tbi-info-%28work-in-progress%29/

http://ramchargercentral.com/vehicle-help/confirmed-fixes-cheat-sheet/

Ok, while reading in another window, I see you have fuel pressure that drops to zero. Your injectors, regulator or fuel pump is leaking. If its the injectors you will actually see the dribble and it may cause flooding. If the engine is flooding out it may be easier to crank the engine with the pedal held wide open for a moment to get a lot of fresh air into the chamber.

There is no vacuum on this regulator, that is mostly only for injectors where the tips are exposed to vacuum. It's vapor recovery. Spec is the same 14.5 plus or minus 1, all day every day. I think you might have a chiltons or something, one of those manuals is wrong.

The trick with the store rental gauges is to unscrew the gauge. They are usually standard 1/4"NPT fitting. You can sneak a 30psi or other low range large face hydraulic (dry) gauge in it's place temporarily, then replace the correct one once you return it.

My bet between choices is fuel pump internal check valve stuck. It can leak a lot of fuel and not necessarily cause a drivability problem. An injector that leaks bad enough to bleed down this quickly should run like crap, but check it anyways. All 3 areas need to be checked. Of course there is also the option of flex fuel line or throttle body casting leaking, but let's keep it simple first.

Simple is looking at the injectors with hot engine freshly killed (just pull the ASD relay, coil wire, or injector wires while you are under the hood) See if they are leaking or dribbling even. It could be leaking down fast enough that you don't see it if you shut it off from inside

You could go on to test ASD, but the ASD controls so many things that I do not consider it the 1st 5 things to worry about. (fuel pump, coil, ignition, 02 sensor, injectors, and alternator are all powered by asd)

You could pull and reroute the return line temporarily, to observe if it is the leaking culprit. Shouldn't have any flow at all once pressure drops below 13.5 Constant flow is a leak. This is a realistic possibility if your gauge reading is accurate

If the fuel pump check valve is bad, they actually make an external inline check valve, that is pretty convenient.

At some point in time I might be tempted to test the electricals back at the pump itself, but that isn't 1st measure of the day. First thing is pull the air cleaner lid and hope you get (un)lucky.
 
Make sure to do a "loaded" pressure test.

What that means is at idle the engine isn't using much fuel so it is easier to maintain spec pressure.

Under a load when more fuel is being sprayed, a weak delivery system will start dropping pressure as the "faucet" (injectors) are opened further.

A load could be normal spirited driving with the gauge snaked around to a place you can see, a trailer hooked on the back while moving around yard, or simply lightly power braking the engine.

I like the power brake method, but be careful and use some discretion, the goal is not to actually spin the tires and burn the brakes, but the point just before it moves, loading up the converter. No more than 15-20 seconds if at all possible, and let the engine idle in neutral for a few minutes to cool down the converter.

THEN you have verified the repair is complete.
 
12psi is not "good enough". I don't know if the filter was replaced, but it should have been.

Low pressure does not necessarily mean pump problems. Pinching it off and not seeing a rise does mean that the regulator can temporarily be ignored (although after other problem is solved, regulator may still be found at fault) Of course pump or electrical voltage drop may also be contributing. Reduced voltage=reduced amperage=reduced wattage=reduced pump horsepower.

There is a small section of hose between the pump and top of tank. If it has a small pin hole it could have been related to original leak down problems and continue to read low.

Don't let fuel volume fool you

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The engine may continue to start/run ok at idle or light load but may run lean as harder loads are applied or fuel system wear increases over time.