howdy / what model 37 studebaker we working on today

please fill out your SIG that shows at the bottom of your posts with your truck info or at least include that info in your post

it,ll cut down on the wise cracks and you,ll actually get decent replys to your questions

 

Assuming you have a 70's or 80's Dodge vehicle: Disconnect temp wire from sending unit, then connect it to ground. Turn the key to ON, gauge should peg out at HOT. Repeat this procedure with wire from Oil sending unit (should peg out HIGH), and fuel sending unit (should read FULL when wire is grounded). If not, report back here for further instruction.

Bucky

 

I'm sorry, new here, it's an 83 rc 318, 2wd, and I did that with the temp wire, nothing, didn't move, but the fuel gauge works, I was wondering if the cluster voltage regulator also regulates the fuel gauge, in which case, it's working and my temp and oil gauge are bad. (does this happen?)

 

Definitely do go bad, even when they worked they don't work very well.

Its possible something like a solder trace on circuit board or something failed, but quite honestly, wouldn't be worth repairing even if new parts were available.

Time to upgrade.
http://www.amazon.com/Sunpro-CP8218-Triple-Gauge-Kit/dp/B000FJQWYO

Several posts down from this is a members post about flooding carburetors. Come to find out, his engine was overheating. His gauge moved around but never let him know he was actually overheating and boiling the carb.

These crap stock 80s gauges are sometimes even worse than idiot lights.

 

Thanks, that's what I needed to know, I already bought a gauge kit but hadn't opened it yet, just wanted to double check my logic.....another question, the kit I bought has a copper tube for the temp sensor, ?, I should convert to this?

 

I cant recall if the fuel gauge was part of the deal or not, I do know the other two are. If grounding it out gives a FULL reading, then any issues with it are at the sending unit.

Could be bad gauges, bad regulator, or the circuit board as the Capt mentioned. Its somewhat of a rarity to have a truck/van that ALL THREE of the gauges worked properly. I'd upgrade if the vehicle is driven regularly and not a concours show ride.

FYI the ammeter has nothing to do with the other gauges, it is its own nightmare.

Bucky

 

That's fine. It's a capillary tube mechanical gauge. That can be worrisome for some people, but it is nice in the aspect of not depending on any electricity.

http://www.egauges.com/ATM_Tips.asp?TipPage=mech_gauges_n_cap_tubing.htm

http://www.egauges.com/ATM_Tips.asp?TipPage=mechvselec.htm

Use rubber firewall grommets, watch how you route the line, don't kink it, and you should be fine.

 

thanks so much!! Now since my speedo makes an annoying "weeka, weeka, weeka" noise, and the only thing that technically works is the fuel gauge (lol), how big of a pain is it to change the speedo to aftermarket? Will the cable bolt right up? Or will I have to run a new cable?

 

thanks so much!! Now since my speedo makes an annoying "weeka, weeka, weeka" noise, and the only thing that technically works is the fuel gauge (lol), how big of a pain is it to change the speedo to aftermarket? Will the cable bolt right up? Or will I have to run a new cable?

It is probably the cable making the noise.

 

It sure sounds like the odometer gears, how would I pinpoint that?

 

It sure sounds like the odometer gears, how would I pinpoint that?

A replacement cable is like $20. If you don't want to risk that, you remove the speedo head and you can attach a drill and spin it with that to listen. Replacement odometer gears and instructions are available readily by doing a Google search.

 

i ran into the same problem with my gauges when i bought the truck. i dismantled the cluster removing all the gauges one at a time. i used a brass brush to scrub the circuit board where it connects to the gauge cleaning all the connections. all the gauges and lights began too work as they should. my problem was related too the truck sitting for a couple years and having at least 270K miles on the truck. i bought the truck in 04 and have had to re clean the the connections twice too keep the gauges working. i think it is just part of owning a old truck. also i would install a new speedometer cable. it is cheap and there is a good chance that it is causing the noise you hear.

 

 

I'm going to try that, it's worth a shot, thanks.....and replace the cable, thanks again

 

before you go replacing the cable you might want to see if you can just remove it from the casing and grease it. the one piece one on my 81 could be pulled completely out of the casing but i have had some other cables that i could not do that to. could also take the speedo out and grease the gears a bit. its not a to hard of a job. just time consuming.

 

Definitely do go bad, even when they worked they don't work very well
These crap stock 80s gauges are sometimes even worse than idiot lights.

For oil and and charging I actually prefer idiot lights. I guess it goes back to my VW days. IF something goes, then the idiot behind the wheel is brightly reminded of it. On VWs its 4psi to cut the light out. At least the Dodge one is 7 psi.

sb

 

you could have a light and gauge if you want. just need a newer oil pressure sensor. here is an article of a few electrical upgrades that are gauge related.
http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical2.html

 

I had an 80 Mirada that had gauges with lights.
I liked that, too. BUT, when I am putting stuff together in the barn, lights are cheap and easy and work for what I want.

I do want to add that I don't like the light for the temperature warning. By time it trips the light, the engine is BBQed. I generally add a mechanical temp gauge like discussed earlier in the thread.

Nice article you linked, btw. I have used the T-method to do it before with aftermarket gauges.

sb

 

It doesn't have to be that way, simple get a switch that warns earlier. 215* for example. You have up to about 230 before the big problems, at 210 you don't really have too much concerns. Oil pressure switch could come on sooner too.

This is only comparing switches to many factory "gauges". The needle may never move into a warning range and even if it did, you have no idea what the factory considers a "warning" on many vehicles that don't have numbers. Factory gauges have lead people into false sense of security that toasts a motor. Typically speaking, sending switches tend to be quite a bit more accurate that sending units in many older oe applications.

That's why on these forums someone says "I'm overheating or low oil pressure" or "runs bad but i have good pressure or not overheating" the first response is always like "how do you know?" "what method did you use to measure?"

An aftermarket setup usually trumps them both, but from oe most of those gauges are almost worthless.

 

It doesn't have to be that way, simple get a switch that warns earlier. 215* for example. You have up to about 230 before the big problems, at 210 you don't really have too much concerns. Oil pressure switch could come on sooner too.

This is only comparing switches to many factory "gauges". The needle may never move into a warning range and even if it did, you have no idea what the factory considers a "warning" on many vehicles that don't have numbers. Factory gauges have lead people into false sense of security that toasts a motor. Typically speaking, sending switches tend to be quite a bit more accurate that sending units in many older oe applications.

That's why on these forums someone says "I'm overheating or low oil pressure" or "runs bad but i have good pressure or not overheating" the first response is always like "how do you know?" "what method did you use to measure?"

An aftermarket setup usually trumps them both, but from oe most of those gauges are almost worthless.

i did not think about it but at one point i had booth the OE gauge and a mechanical gauge hooked up to my oil sending tube. the OE gauge would read 1/2 way between low and high when cold and drop too 1/4 when warm. but the mechanical gauge would show 75psi cold and 60psi warm ( when being driven ) don't get me wrong i still like the OE gauges but i am used too where they read and am aware that they are not a true and accurate measurement.

 

Of course, one as to glance at the gauges occasionally, even if they are accurate & reliable. A light, especially one that has the built in safety margins like CO says above, gets your ATTENTION.

sb

 

finally got the cluster back out and pulled it apart, pulled out the temp gauge, cleaned the terminals, still no worky, so I'm back to an aftermarket setup, and I'm going to try greasing the speedo, I pulled it out as well and there were remnants of old grease that had turned to paste......Is it safe to drive the truck without the cluster in place? I was wanting to check the cable for noise, but I don't want the cable to do something stupid.

 

Should be fine, as long as any of the "hot" wires are taped up or at least secure.

sb

 

That's how I used to test the old mechanical speedos and tachs on different vehicles. Just pull the clusster and took it for a spin.

Grease isn't going to seep down the cable very far.