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Dana 44-full time to part time

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9.6K views 14 replies 5 participants last post by  ramit87  
#1 ·
I know this has been covered before but did not have any luck with the search.

I have an 87 RC with a full time Dana 44 8 lug. I believe it has been swapped in by the previous owner because it also has a dana 60 rear. The 44 does not have CAD.

I know I will need the knuckles out and that I need to look at a 3/4 ton or bigger but what exactly do I need to look for to do this swap. Will chebbie work or do I have to look for just dodge? I would like to get this done quickly so I can drive the RC. It has a decent vibration at 55-60. The pumpkin should be rotated but the 4 wheel drive will be used at low speeds so it isn't a problem unless I keep the full time.

Any help? What do I need to look for? I am not sure if the axles are 30 or 35 spline?!

Thanks folks-Don
 
#2 ·
I should specify a little. I have a 203 TC and I want to put lock outs on the front. I know a lot of you guys love full time but I want to stop spinning the driveshaft and t-case while driving down the road.
 
#3 ·
If you put lockout hubs on the front, you will hafta either run your TC in "LOC", or put in the TC part-time conversion kit. It's not a good idea to run in LOC with just the rear providing all the power, the TC wasn't made to work that way constantly. If you want part time, install the hubs and get a different TC, like the 205 or 208.
 
#4 ·
You're gonna need the entire knuckle assy. That means everything from the ball joints-out will have to be disassembled. You will need the spindal and the caliper bracket. You will also need the wheel bearings, rotor and brake calipers, and you'll need the lock out hubs. You will need the outter stub shafts, and while you're having to disassemble the axleshafts to swap the outter stubbies, you might as well replace the axleshaft u-joints (Get the stronger replacement Spicers or one of the high strength items from CTM or OX)

Chebby parts will work but there may be minor differences with the steering arm casting. Converting to cross over steering may require some machine work to the passenger side knuckle to bolt on a cross over steering arm.

Ed
 
#5 ·
Mudflap-I meant 208 and not 203 so I will be okay there.

Thanks RXT-I have had it all apart several times chasing gremlins with the steering so taking it apart is getting pretty easy. I have already installed cross over and I have done the machining to the current knuckle so that should be doable as well. Are there any particular years I should look for? I just want to get this done! Thanks
 
#6 ·
If you are gonna get the kit to convert to part time, you do not need all those parts...just the kit itself and I think wheel bearings. You will reuse your spindle and caliper bracket. A new rotor at this time is a good idea.

You only need the new spindles if you are going to change bolt patterns or try to get away from the original bearing design on the fulltime axles.

If you are NOT gonna use the kit, you will need all that stuff RXT said.
 
#7 ·
Well, then in that case I would merely suggest getting the front end kit. A lot less work, and most likely more cost effective.
 
#8 ·
Ok what is the kit you are talking about and where to get it. I made a mistake and said I had a 203 but I have the 208. I am not converting the T-case. I just want to be able to unlock the front hubs when I want to. I just rebuilt the front end-all new bearings, seals and rotors so I should have done this before the rebuild but oh well.
 
#9 ·
i think it might be easiest to go to the junkyard, find an axle that has hubs, pull the whole thing off, and just swap it into your truck....most 3/4 ton pickups used hubs, at least in the mid 70's anyways....
 
#11 ·
TheRamChargerMan said:
what front axle do you have ?? a fultime one like was used for a 203 tcase truck ??

is so, then you either swap the whole axle, swap from the balljoints out, or you call milemarker and see if they will sell you a kit for just the hubs.
I have the HD Dana 44-It has 8 lugs. It does not have the CAD system. It may have been swapped from another truck-I don't know for sure. The ring gear has the year 1977 stamped on it but who knows for sure. I do not see any other areas where the ID is stamped on it. I would prefer to change it from the knuckles out. That would be easier than changeing the whole axle. I don't want to have to worry about getting the matching gears at this point in time. I will try milemarker and see what they have.
 
#12 ·
Well, you need to find out which axle you have. There should be a dana 44 or 44-fbj, or somethign stamped on the webs of the diff case. They will need to know that.

If it is anythign other than a fbj axle, you may be able to get just the hubs from warn...much cheaper that way.
 
#14 ·
I have the dana 44=3GF. That is what is stamped on the web of the case. Is this a standard axle. I am heading to JY tomorrow to look for the axle so I can get what I need. Any advice? Should I look for anything specific as far as years and stuff. I want to get this done as quick as possible.
 
#15 ·
After reading cooper's axle question in the tech section. Can I still keep my 8 lug bolt pattern if I switch to lock outs on a dana 44?