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Any reason not to use stock rods on 408?

3.9K views 9 replies 5 participants last post by  blueduster  
#1 ·
I am trying to decide weather it not to build a 408 out of my 360 mag that I am currently building. The cost of a 4" crank is $375ish. Pistons for stock or 4" stroke are similar in price. I know that I need to machine the small end of a stock rod to clear the stroker pistons, this will require a rebalance.  I intend to balance the engine no matter what do as far as stroke, so that cost is there anyways.
      So as I see it, it will cost only a new crank to gain 60ish cubes. Talk me into or out of it!
 
#2 ·
mag engine? to me the limitations would be in the intake and carb used, or type of fuel injection system used, as the factory injection system likely would not be up to par, if you have that all figured out then go for it, lots of good posts and info on here about it.
 
#3 ·
And I would not use stock rods.  Why chance it?
 
#4 ·
Are they the same length? I'd figure they were a little shorter because of the increased stroke (didn't think getting moving the piston pin closer to the crown would be enough). Regardless, I'd never even consider reusing my original rods. Not gonna risk a 400 hp engine on stock rods.

As for needing the extra 60 cubes, what's you're ultimate goal for the engine?
 
#5 ·
Whichever route you go, if you're increasing the hp or rpm, then use new rod bolts if you use the original rods.  Torquing them the first time stretches them as it's supposed to, but they don't contract to their original length when you loosen them up.  Torque them down again the you really stretch them out and then you risk them breaking.  Some engines aren't real sensitive to retorquing the rod bolts, while others reusing the bolts is pretty much assuring you will have a rod punch a hole in the side of the block.  On the 310 ci Waukeshaw engine used in '70s Oliver tractors, reusing the rod bolts in the non-turbo (diesel) version was not an issue.  Do that on the turbo-ed version and you can guarantee a rod bolt will break sooner or later.  It may do it under load, going down the road or setting there idling.  And regardless of what type of engine it is, if a manual says to not reuse them , then by all means don't.
 
#6 ·
Thanks for the replies!

  The stock rods are the same length as the "stroker rods". I just read somewhere that stock rods have a limit around 450hp, so I will likely buy a set of rods.

  As for why do I need 60 extra cubes? I really don't, it's just that I don't see why not as long as I can fit it in the budget. Even buying new rods it's looking like Ill come in cheaper than buying a complete stroker kit.

  As for heads I'll be using slightly massaged stock magnum heads. If I do stroke it there is no room in the budget for aftermarket heads at this time.

    This is going into the 88 in my sig. It's my daily driver when I'm not driving my daily driver, if that makes any sense. It probably gets driven 40% of the time. It is also getting a d70/d60 combo with 4:10s and 35s

 
#7 ·
The rods I'll need are around $290.  So that means that the total cost increase to stroke it is arround $700. That's a little less than $12/ci.

  Is it worth it? All things otherwise being equal, what kind of hp/tq increase can I expect? I know worth is mostly opinion in this case. So lay it on me!
 
G
#8 ·
              The aftermarket rods should be 50% stronger than stock rods and stress
          relieved. And depending on your piston choice-most come with groves for
          wristpin locks. You would end up with a full floating wristpin. Most aftermarket
          come with a bushed rod. And that's a plus.
              I try not to spend other peoples money but if it were me, I would go with
          the stroker rods. Your going to spend dollars on the stock rods, may aswell
          put that towards the stroker rods. My {2cents}
 
#9 ·
bluegoat said:
The rods I'll need are around $290. So that means that the total cost increase to stroke it is arround $700. That's a little less than $12/ci.

Is it worth it? All things otherwise being equal, what kind of hp/tq increase can I expect? I know worth is mostly opinion in this case. So lay it on me!
With LA heads, a fancy computer predicted my hp at 330-340. However, torque was 400+ lb-ft across most of the usable rpm range, and I can definitely feel it no matter what gear I'm in. I could practically take off in 3rd gear. Same program predicted 400+ hp with modern heads. If you're using Magnum heads, I think you'll be pretty pleased with the stroker.

My budget also didn't allow for heads and a stroker at the same time. I figured I could swap heads much easier than replacing the crank (pulling the block). So my next project is heads. Then I'll add fuel injection. It's a project that's never finished, but my truck gets better every year.
 
#10 ·
If you go with magnum heads you will want to use the aftermarket rods or blueprint your oems. They can vary slightly rod to rod and you don't want clearance or detonation issues.