Those use a bigger ball joint then yours does. Off the top of my head, even if you used the bigger ball joint, it will not fit your steering arm.

 

I was afraid of that, but I figured what the hell and ask those who know far more than myself lol. Thank you.

 

I haven't deal with truck ball joints that I can recall, but did do some on Mopar passenger cars. Seems like a special ball joint socket & a powerful impact were involved. Maybe even a torch.

Bucky

 

2-9/64" socket, Milwaukee impact w/ 650lbft (if memory serves) and a map torch. Might have to break out the oxy acetylene torch here tomorrow lol.

 

Trucks are the same, screw into the A-arm. Some 3/4 ton trucks, and all 1 ton trucks and vans take a larger one. The small one is the same as many of the rear wheel drive cars used.

 

this list of mine is incomplete (Updating soon) but should have the bulk of what your looking for on it. I just rebuilt mine. Just like you said said Get a Impact gun, I got the dewalt with 1400lb of break a way torque on the special socket. since the upper is threaded in. Then zip it off. you may have to recut the threads with the new ball joint like I had to. be sure not to force it & use Tap magic. Make it so much easier.

Link with the parts list "See latest Post for most uptodate": D - Series Platform : RWD Ramcharger 2 Inch Suspension...

 

To the best of my recollection, the upper control arms are the same. Either size balljoint fits; it's the balljoint taper (shank) that is fatter on the 4000#.

Also, I had a compromised arm (rusted thin and cracked). I welded in a piece of rebar to beef it up.

 

So with that said, I'd be able to simply remove the larger tapered joint from the a-arms and reinstall the new joints I currently have in my possession? They have the same thread size and pitch?

And I didn't even think about the idea of using some rebar. But I do have some spare round stock in the shed that I could weld in now that I think about it.

 

Well, after getting these fuckers glowing red I finally got them out. Only problem is now I definitely need a new control arm... passengerside that had the brunt of the rust had a bit more than originally thought...

Don't suppose anyone knows a better way to repair this? Figured pipe and weld, but is it even possible to find the right thread pitch for these?

 

Clean them up and weld the BJ back in done it lots of times

 

You haven't filled out your information and location yet. Where are you? I'm assuming the rust belt looking at those A-Arms.

 

I'm out in Maryland. As a matter of fact the truck has lived out in MD it's whole life. Previous owner bought it new. Sorry, had completely slipped my mind.

 

@SuperBurban and @Dougy13k

I'll re-measure my arms today for balljoint size.

 

@SuperBurban and @Dougy13k

I'll re-measure my arms today for balljoint size.

Check the axle rating also. I think the bigger ones are just on the 3800, and 4000 lb axles.

 

Maybe just get another arm from a southern state?

 

The two sockets I have are marked 1&59/64", and 2&9/64" I always assumed the one was for the smaller BJ's, and the other was for the HD 1 ton 3800 & 4000 lb axles. But I must admit I have never done Bj's on any 2wd, except for the 4000 lb axles.

Then what is different on the 3800 & 4000 lb upper control arms. of not the BJ thread?

 

Then what is different on the 3800 & 4000 lb upper control arms. of not the BJ thread?

Nothing as far as I can tell.

The lower control arm on 3800/4000# has a larger balljoint hole.

 

Correct, They are the same. Interesting that vans have different ones for the highest ratings. But trucks are the same. The OP should be able to use the ones linked.

 

@SuperBurban I took the dive and ordered those control arms anyway. Was reading around and seems like the only difference was the shank for the BJ itself. Figured what the hell and try to see if it works out if I just swap the BJ for the ones I have.

Worst case, I send them back for a refund. Best case, plenty if other guys have a stock option to look at.

 

On another note, yall rock. And I seriously appreciate all the input!!!

 

Figured I'd put this out there for those interested,

I would highly advise against buying from FFS for factory style components. Unfortunately I learned yet another lesson about buying in a panic rather than doing research.

FFS orders the factory components from WSD suspension. And adds a wonderfully high mark up on top of it. Not only that, but they have the proper uppers and lowers for the 100s/150s.

Long story short, better price + faster shipping + proper spec parts.

 

So in saying this, are you recommending buying from wsd suspension instead?

 

Most of you guys know I run my 2wd hard on the auto x course and I have used WSD's upper arms now since I started auto x. They were quick to ship and priced right with no markups. FFS has some nice deals on some things that they make and I have used them in the past. But anything they source and then sell is usually nearly double the price. I would not hesitate to buy through WSD any day of the week.

Neil