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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hoping someone can help me out here. I just finished putting a 318 into what was a 1980 d100, factory slant six and 833 OD truck. I acquired the correct v8 overdrive bellhousing for the 833. It now appears that the zbar is too long. The end that used to bolt to the bellhousing is now closer than it was and will not be able to work. What will I need to do to remedy this?

Oh yeah. Also, is anyone running their truck without power steering (manual steering)? If I want to run power steering I’ll have to buy new hoses, and a new pump. Not sure if I want to just yet.

Thanks.
 

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the steering gear box for power steering and the box for manual steering are not the same . Install the power steering . 
 

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1977 W-200 318-727-203
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I think you are in The Netherlands?
quite some guys transferred from manual steering to powersteering since all those ex army W-200's were manual.
if you like to steer manual, you have to put the manual steering box including another (can't find the name for the short arm coming from the steering box to the axle?), in place, the power steering box can do manual, only for emergency, not all day long.

In the end it might be turning out better and cheaper just to install these hoses rightaway??

good luck.
 

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The power steering pumps on the 6 cylinders had less power assist but do work with correct brackets, some E Body guys actually swap out the V8 Pumps to regain a little more feedback from the 6 cylinder pumps. I will be modifying my '70 Challenger to sort out this problem of no feedback through the steering wheel which many earlier MOPAR's experienced in the '60's, 70's.

Try Brewers or others that sell new Z Bar's, the V8 is shorter than the 6 cylinder ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Is anyone using a hydraulic setup ( clutch master/ slave cylinder) not hydraulic throw out bearing?
Also, I heard that you can cut the zbar on the bellhousing side about an inch or so and that could fix it?
 

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IF I recall correctly , the slant 6 and the v/8 use different holes in the cross member . so is the engine sitting straight and level in the truck ? if its a bigger diameter bell than the 6 used and that's why its too long , BUT it is straight across still , yeah I don't think cutting it would hurt anything . its called a pitman arm on the steering box ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
dodge82273 said:
IF I recall correctly , the slant 6 and the v/8 use different holes in the cross member . so is the engine sitting straight and level in the truck ? if its a bigger diameter bell than the 6 used and that's why its too long , BUT it is straight across still , yeah I don't think cutting it would hurt anything . its called a pitman arm on the steering box ...
The 318 used the same holes that the slant 6 used. Everything lined up good. The bellhousing is wider. I called the guys at brewers they informed me that I can cut about an inch off of the tube of the zbar on the bell housing side.
 

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my "parts" manuals say the /6 an 318 use the same torque shaft = you call z-bar

the 318 uses a bracket bolted to the bell
 

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Dutch106 said:
Is anyone using a hydraulic setup ( clutch master/ slave cylinder) not hydraulic throw out bearing?
All '88 and up Dodge trucks with manual transmission use a hydraulic clutch. The '87 Slant 6 was the first to use it, then the other engine options followed in '88.
 

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hydro takes a different bellhouseing , the slave bolt to an opening in the bell made for it . it does NOT just push the same arm that your set up does .  very old ones did ... so If you have seen one and think thats the way the newer ones are , well , they are different .
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
dodge82273 said:
hydro takes a different bellhouseing , the slave bolt to an opening in the bell made for it . it does NOT just push the same arm that your set up does . very old ones did ... so If you have seen one and think thats the way the newer ones are , well , they are different .
If I fabricated a bracket for an aftermarket slave cylinder and placed it behind the clutch fork that way it'll pull the fork wouldn't that work? I've seen others use the speedway motors hydraulic clutch kit and set it up that way.
 

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make sure the stroke ( lenght the slave travels ) is correct , provide for wear adjustment , and also provide a way to "return" the slave all the way so the old style throwout bearing does NOT ride the pressure plate , the way the new system is designed to do , and you would have controll over depressing the clutch NOT over letting it UP , ( your return spring would be controlling that ) if you have that ability ,  you don't need my help , and I don't understand why you asked about z bar lenght .. In other words , using a slave and master from todays system , I myself would not try that , I get the right bell first , that way nothing is a special part , everthing is just a 1992 part on a 1980's truck . keeping it simple pays off in the long run . 
 
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