I installed an nv4500 tranny in my 87 rc. It has a tilt steering column and the clutch pedal hits the ignition switch that mounts to the column. I would like to just get rid of the switch. I bought a panel with a main power key, push button start, and 3 accessory switches. Can any of you ramcharger genius’s tell me what color wires go to what on the stock switch? I know some of them but not all of them yet. It looks like there are 7. Yellow, red, pink/black, grey/black, black/orange, black/white, and I think purple.
Wiring in a push button start
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Are you sure the clutch pedal is hitting the starter switch? If it is I think it it should only be hitting the one for the starter. I would recommend keeping the ignition and accessories on the key switch if possible. Putting them on a toggle switch is just asking to have a vehicle stolen
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It's not that simple. The ignition switch has more than one circuit for ACC, start and Run. You are either going to need another ignition switch, modify the pedal like everyone else does, swap to an older non-tilt column and splice the wiring or add a lot more switches and/or relays.
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agreed , and while I don't normally get miffed with too may folks here , you do realize how easy it is to take your comment about "genius's" the wrong way While your asking for help .... counterproductive don't ya think ?
use a simple test light , pencil with paper to record your findings , genius .
use a simple test light , pencil with paper to record your findings , genius .
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His whole problem is the ignition switch. It's at the base of the column, controlled by a pushrod. It's location interferes with his clutch pedal. He will either have to swap to a different switch and/or column of some sort, or modify the clutch pedal.GUT said:
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see how easy it was to take your comment wrong ? ain't ya glad someone pointed that out to ya ? written word has no body language , nor voice tone , thats where it becomes possiable to take stuff more than 1 way ... no problem . your key supplys power to the fuse box two ways , at least , acc , and on 2 circuts , at least , plus , only the ignittion stays HOT while cranking , your radio , fan , wipers all shut OFF when/while you crank ... so it IS not just a simple as all that , your key switch does alot more than ya may think ... just so you know . Does that stuff have to shut OFF ? no , but they want ALL you battery effort to go to the starter and ignition during cranking .
I ended up tying the 2 power wires together. Red and pink. That went to the main keyed panel switch. I ran a jumper.from the keyed switch to the 3 toggles and the push button. Yellow to the push button, blue to ignition toggle, black/white to acc. 1 toggle, black/red to acc. 2 toggle. Everything is working like I want it to right now.
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Actually, it should. 1, just the extra few amps available for the starter, may make a difference if the battery, or starter is getting old. But the bigger reason, is the alternator can produce some electronic damaging spikes when it is trying to start, as the RPM's build up. I know many of the leece nacivilles, and delcos, have an extra circuit in the voltage reg, that will not turn it on, until it spins at a certain RPM. No idea if Chrysler did that also, or not. But I would bet many aftermarket VR's, took the cheap route, and have the bare minimum circuitry. To me, not worth the risk of damaging the radio, VR,ECM, LED lights, CB, and other items. Best to duplicate the stock switch, where there is no power to the alt & voltage reg, until you let the key return to the on position.dodge82273 said:
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and fella's replace grid heater solenoids with ones that have no diodes , then wonder what happened to the pcm every time the solinoid's coil collapses ( shuts off ) a voltage spike is sent thru the key's power source ..
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