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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im working on my 78 was going through the wiring harness yesterday and noticed a few things.

For starters, the PO completed hacked all the wires, and just jimmy-rigged the lights, window wipers, and the heater motor to "aftermarket" switches/toggles.  <--- Need to fix that....

2nd - The current harness is old, like was left out in the hot summers so the wiring is hard and brittle (which im sure is a fire ready to happen)

So im curious as to who has rewired there rig with one from painless? Also im curious as to how hard is it to rewire there whole rig. Im looking into a painless p/n 10202.

Im inexperienced when it comes to electrical so any help is very much appreciated.
 

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an 8 year old can do if you have a FSM
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I read that you were the guy to find for one of them... What would one cost me? Im gonna need it anyways...
 

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your '78 will be alot easier to rewire than and '80's truck and especially a later injected one.
just make plenty of notes, take plenty of pictures, get a good schematic (FSM is the best) and be methodical and patient. ;D

edit - if you go with a painless kit or anybody else's for that matter make a thorough list of all loads present and anticipated (ignition, heater, horn, lights, etc.....) then map out your harness and compare to what kit you'll need. i think you would be fine with a 12 circuit kit but youll have to figure it out. good luck!
 

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I cant speak for the dodge painless harness but ive put in 4 complete pianless harnesses in 73-87 chevy trucks and they are easy as can be everything is labled and cut very long so you can run the wires wherever and in what ever way you want

sent from my 81 w250 using tapatalk

 

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These trucks/RC's are not to bad to rewire . I didn't know a lot about harness wiring when I started with my 77 D100 . I have done a few chevy's in the past . I just did a lot of reseach into harness diagrams and a few mod's that are worth it if your doing a factory type replacement/restore .  ma in the process of rebuilding my 77 D100 harness now and just got threw with converting an extra 85 RC harness to fit my 79 RC , as in redirecting 85 harness to mate up with the 79 RC dash switches and gauge pod . Using the 85 bulk head connector too . Took a few days to do .
The Painless harnesses are nice because every wire is labeled every 6 inches of where it goes . and most Painless sets come with new connectors for your factory switches too .
 

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not that many wires in a '78. Get an anvil-type crimper, a little wire, and replace one bad wire at a time from end to end. You can go at your own pace without disabling the vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ToxicDoc said:
not that many wires in a '78. Get an anvil-type crimper, a little wire, and replace one bad wire at a time from end to end. You can go at your own pace without disabling the vehicle.
Haha My rig hasnt ran in over 10 years due to faulty wiring and that amp meter...

But yea, a buddy and i are gonna see if we can replace some wire and try and get it to crank over on its own before i go and try to replace the whole harness.
 

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Muddnut if your going to do that I will make you a list later of the terminals and where to buy them for the factory replacements for 90% of 70's Dodges . And it does take a special crimper for the factory terminals . I bought a weather pack crimper off ebay .

Also start with bolting and taping the old alt meter gauge wire together . If the gauge is bad it will not allow power to rest of the interior harness . With that check bulk head connector terminal #5 black wire and #23 red wire  and see it they are bad , burnt , and/or lose . not allowing power in your cab ,These 2 wires are your Alt gauge wires I said to bolt (if they have terminals) or crimp and solider then . That will complete the path from the alternator back to the + on the battery .
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Muddbugg68 said:
Muddnut if your going to do that I will make you a list later of the terminals and where to buy them for the factory replacements for 90% of 70's Dodges . And it does take a special crimper for the factory terminals . I bought a weather pack crimper off ebay .

Also start with bolting and taping the old alt meter gauge wire together . If the gauge is bad it will not allow power to rest of the interior harness . With that check bulk head connector terminal #5 black wire and #23 red wire and see it they are bad , burnt , and/or lose . not allowing power in your cab ,These 2 wires are your Alt gauge wires I said to bolt (if they have terminals) or crimp and solider then . That will complete the path from the alternator back to the + on the battery .
That be much appreciated. Ill do that this weekend to see if i can make some progress.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Muddbugg68 said:
With that check bulk head connector terminal #5 black wire and #23 red wire and see it they are bad , burnt , and/or lose .
you mean like this??

 

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Sorry it took me so long to get back to you . Been busy trying to get my 2000 Ram back on the road and legal as in tags and Virginia state inspection sticker (Troopers hate it if you don't have proper documentation {blah} ) lol .

91muddnut said:
you mean like this??

That is terminal #23 in the 3rd connector from right side of bulkhead Connection .
I took mine and moved it to the empty slot at the end of connector (left side in your pic) after reworking the wire or replacing wire .

As far as new connectors and terminals I found a few of the replacement Chrysler style connectors and the terminals in links below .

Below is a link to the "Chrysler Alt Harness" fix .
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

This link below is to a little history on the infamous Chrysler harnesses .
http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical.html

This link below sales some of the Factory style replacement connectors .
http://www.chargerspecialties.com/wiring.htm

Three of the 77-79 Dodge truck harnesses I have taken out to repair have used these terminals .
http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=16349&Search.x=-97&Search.y=-126
they are exact Chrysler replacement terminals and pack of 25 is under $9 .
The male side to terminal above is ,
http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Locking_Terminal_20_18_Gauge_1_4_Female_p/a14892.htm
These are very close to Chrysler replacement terminals and pack of 25 is $8

These terminals will need a Delphi or WeatherPac type crimper . I got mine off ebay for $31 free shipping .
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Open-Barrel-Terminal-Deutsch-Crimper-Tool-OEM-AMP-Tyco-Delphi-Molex-Harley-/370733690970?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item565173305a&vxp=mtr

I would just start one wire at a time checking continuity and voltage bleed threw in the wire making sure its good before replacing . It also helps to print off your harness diagram , Line them up side by side , and tape them together to make it easier to trace done when your referencing diagram .

Anything else just let me know .
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Where is the best place to look for/download a wiring diagram? Ive been looking but havent found a complete harness diagram yet or i overlooked it(which i wouldn't doubt)
 

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Try DodgeBoys here on RCC .

I put the ones I copied out of my Hayes Manual below .
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
you are a ....
:D :D
 

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Mudd,

Will those diagrams work on a 79 W200?  I just picked it up and it's got wiring issues.  I haven't had a chance to tear into it.  Hopefully this weekend or next.  But I'm thinking I need to rewire a lot of stuff, separately or with a painless kit. 
 

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SunriseF150 there maybe a few little differences in 79 harness . But for the most part it they are close if not same . I used same diagrams to rewire my 79 RC . Did not see any differences to me .

If you want exact Factory Service Manual diagrams email DodgeBoys here on RCC in the vendor section .
 

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Well here's my 2 cent's worth! Forget painless! Get yourself a good used harness for your year truck so that it will match the factory wiring diagram. Then what I did on all of my 72 to 80 Powerwagons & D Trucks (11 total) & my current 79 Ramcharger is wire them up as Chrysler did for the 117 amp alternator setups. This bypasses the bulkhead connector adds two fusible links and the wiring (a larger gauge also) goes thru a grommet (#3) in the firewall to the alt gauge. If you look at a factory wiring diagram you will see that cavity #5 of the front end wiring connector at the bulkhead is not used. At the alt gauge you must make sure you replace the special lock washers at the terminals (do not reuse the old ones) these connections must remain tight or you will have trouble! If you can come across a 1975 metal gauge cluster frame this also will help with heat dissipation if you are running a lot of amps thru the amp gauge for a long period of time. Under normal conditions you won't have any problems unless you are adding on big stereo amps or hi power incandescent off-road lights (go LED) and the like. When you buy any classic car or truck (my opinion) get yourself a factory service manual!!!! The wiring diagrams are priceless especially for 72-80 Dodge trucks. There are differences in all years of wiring between the truck years some are minor, to different wire colors from one year to another. Also you can get a colored wiring diagrams off Ebay for cheep and they are easier to read. Last clean all terminals at the bulkhead connector if your not going to replace the terminals (which is a good idea) then use a electrical connector grease when re-installing them. If you do this you won't have anymore troubles. All this can be done with parts and wiring from any auto store or electrical supplier cheep!

FYI - I am an Electrical Engineer but this is easy to do if you take your time and study the wiring diagrams!

If you can tie your shoes you can do this!!! ;D
 

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