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1977 W-200 318-727-203
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Discussion Starter #1
It's a long while ago that I needed to tune up my ignition, the last time I had a tool build, in the meantime of course that tool is long gone.

Today was the day of days, and I needed that tool,  i forgot about how I build it.

How do you adjust your dizzy and which tool you use for it? (with pictures please?)

there's not much room in the back with a 318!
 

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I usually just use a 1/4" drive ratchet, a 10" extension, universal joint and a 1/2" socket.  The special offset wrenches just end up being a pain in the ass to use since they are pretty clumsy and don't ratchet.
 

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1977 W-200 318-727-203
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Discussion Starter #3
Today I tried, but the socket and UVjoint is too hign, doesn't fit under the dizzy. thanks for the tip though.
 

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area51 said:
Today I tried, but the socket and UVjoint is too hign, doesn't fit under the dizzy. thanks for the tip though.
There are different designs, but generally they look like this:
 

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I also find that the distributor wrenches are very tough to use in that space, especially in stock form.
I bought one and bent it to an angle that worked better for me and it is what I generally use.

A crows foot might work well in there but I don't have any of those.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
@ duval would you mind post a picture of thet key?
Thanks
 

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I've used the distributor wrench from the parts store, a flare nut crows foot, a regular crows foot, and a 1/4" drive ratchet setup.  They all suck and Chrysler should be ashamed they made the small block distributor setup such a PITA to work on.  Anyway, the parts store wrench is cheap and it works even though it damages my soul to use such a crappy tool.
 

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1/2 inch , cheap is fine it only needs to be snugged NOT cranked down tight anyway , chrome don't get ya home .
 

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i have used 1/4" drive and extension and a knuckle with a 1/2" socket. it is super easy to loosen the bolt. i don't even tighten my distributors down tight anymore. i snug them down but you can usually still turn them with a bit of effort.

gremlinmt said:
I've used the distributor wrench from the parts store, a flare nut crows foot, a regular crows foot, and a 1/4" drive ratchet setup. They all suck and Chrysler should be ashamed they made the small block distributor setup such a PITA to work on. Anyway, the parts store wrench is cheap and it works even though it damages my soul to use such a crappy tool.
what are you talking about? i recently went to adjust the timing on my elcamino with a SBC and talk about PITA. it is worse than a dodge even with the super good access i have to the engine with the flip hood.
 

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Build your own

 

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crazzywolfie said:
i have used 1/4" drive and extension and a knuckle with a 1/2" socket. it is super easy to loosen the bolt. i don't even tighten my distributors down tight anymore. i snug them down but you can usually still turn them with a bit of effort.
what are you talking about? i recently went to adjust the timing on my elcamino with a SBC and talk about PITA. it is worse than a dodge even with the super good access i have to the engine with the flip hood.
LOL yepper , need same sorta tool with a longer reach sideways and 9/16ths end for the old chebys .
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Great guys, metal creativity without end!!!

Is I wrote before, I had one made in the days, but lost it. and those ratchet things don't work for me, these sockets are way too high.

I guess I have to order again such a (regular) wrench to get my own made again.
Thanks.
 

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Like I said before, use a 1/4" drive ratchet, an extension about 10" long, a universal joint and a normal (not deep well) 1/2" socket.  There is no way that a normal socket is too high.  I've only seen one that had the vacuum advance in the way so that I could not use that method and I used a shorty 1/2" wrench.
 

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x2 on that. if you are having to buy tools anyways you could always buy a 1/2"socket with a built in knuckle. they are usually super short and would make the job even easier
 

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Discussion Starter #16
that might be a good idea!
 

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dodge82273 said:
1/2 inch , cheap is fine it only needs to be snugged NOT cranked down tight anyway , chrome don't get ya home .
I'm with you on that.
I've never tightened the distributor down so hard I needed a wrench to loosen it to adjust the timing.
Get it firm enough so it takes a good grip to make it move... good enough.
 

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Here is what I did. Took a stock dizzy wrench, and bent it at the right spot to clear the Dodge firewall. Simple as heck, and works.
 

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3/8 drive ratchet, all the extensions in the tool box, and a 1/2 inch deep socket. Remove the air cleaner and kneel on something that can support a full grown body but also doesn’t get hot.
 

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Here is another thing I do with small blocks, when I get the chance, to make more room at the back. I remote mount the oil pressure stuff. The first 2 pics are a setup I did on my RC, I made the aluminum manifold that mounts with a stud, on one of the threaded holes for the coil mount. It uses a short section of brake line that runs down to the oil press port. The pics are when I set it up on a scrap engine.

The last three pics are one of the first ones I did. I uses a air tool manifold, with adapters to fit the pressure senders to. Its mounted on a foot or so length of aluminum angle stock, with a hose clamp. It also has a small section of brake line, running down to the engines pressure port, which comes out the bottom of the manifold.
 

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