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Fellas:
Are you happier with a particular brand of oil, tranny fluid, diff fluid over another brand?
I was at summit racing yesterday and saw more racing and high performance than i have a choice from in the local advance auto parts. I used royal purple oil in a car once, but cant say it was worth the difference in price. I havent experienced any problems from running synthetic oil in my vehicles yet? Do you guys stick with Mopar fluids?

Cheers,
 

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I'm a die-hard Valvoline fan, in everything.  I'm not a big synthetic fan, mostly because synthetic fluids tend to find leaks where dino oils don't, and the hardware I put it in are mostly old-school and don't have the sweet newer style gaskets available on the newer engines, etc, and I've never been concerned with the power increases relative to the extra costs.  I change my fluids often.  But I am starting to lean towards synthetic Valvoline engine oils, and I'm already using Valvoline synthetic ATF.

- Sam
 

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me and my dad run penzoil synthetic in everything. my dad had a 86 fifth ave with 318 for the first little bit he was running valvoline and not to long after he started using this the cam rounded out so he took it all apart and the motor was packed with grim and sludge like something u never seen before. after that a mechanic friend told him to switch to penzoil synthetic . hes been running it since. the 360 i just put in my truck was outta my dads old ramcharger and all he ran in that was penzoil and when i took it apart it was clean like brand new in there no sludge no grim. ill always use it after ive seen the difference. i dont know much about other oils but i know the penzoil works great
 

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I have used just about everything but in anything newer or really high performance I usually run Mobil 1.  Filter brand is probably more critical than lubricant brand.
 

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In my Duster i run :

Cam2 20w50 Racing Oil in the 340 Engine
Purolator Oil Filter
ATF / Dexron  (Federated/Fisher Auto Parts) in the Torqueflite 727 Transmission
Lucas 80w90 Industrial Gear Oil in the 8-3/4" Sure Grip Rear (with Limited Slip Additive added to it obviously)

In my PW50 i run :

Mobil 1 15w40 Diesel Oil in the 2.5L Turbo Diesel
Purolator Oil Filter (till i see if i can get a Fleetgard that'll fit it)
Lucas 80w90 Industrial Gear Oil in the Manual Transmission, KM100 Transfer Case & Axles (Limited Slip additive in the Axles)

In my old W50 i ran :

STP 10w30 Oil in the 2.6L
Purolator Oil Filter
Lucas 80w90 Industrial Gear Oil in the Manual Transmission, Transfer Case & Axles (with limited slip additive in the Axles)

I avoid Quakerstate and Pennzoil like the Plague, and i definately don't use Fram Filters or Frams in Sheeps Clothing (rebadged Frams)
 

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Mad Max said:
But I am starting to lean towards synthetic Valvoline engine oils, and I'm already using Valvoline synthetic ATF.

- Sam
If you are leaning towards synthetics, you might as well go all the way and use proper, ;) parrifin based synthetics, like Amsoil, Mobil 1, Royal Purple etc.

It is true that a synthetic can make an existing leak worse, but I'll take that sacrifice to have superior lubrication in all other aspects....and you don't need "special" or "new" seals, that is a myth. ;)
 

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It all depends on the application I think.. I have a SRT-4 that i've stayed with Castrol 10-40 and Fram Filters, My GSXR I run Mobile1 Full Synthetic but thats more because i'm hitting 14,000 RPMS.. But i've ran Castrol in all of my other vehicles and have had great success with them.. Maybe Fram isnt the best filter but it does the job very good.. I also run Royal Purple in my trannys and have been very impressed.. No offense anyone that is a Pennzoil fan but I worked at a Pennzoil QuickyLube and would never put that product in my vehicles.. Alot of sludge build up from it..
 

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I've always run Valvoline engine oil with no ill effects.  Been running the Max Life synthetic blend in my old lady's 04 Grand Am since 75K miles.....it now has 328K miles on the original engine and not the first bit of sludge buildup when I had the pan off a few months back due to the pan gasket starting to leak.  Run the Max Life ATF in it as well (never been rebuilt either, changed every 50K miles)  The 440 in  my W250 runs conventional 10W30 Valvoline since break in was drained out

Gear oil wise I generally run Citgo synthetic as I get it dirt cheap thru work.

For my Powerstroke, I run Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15W40.  OEM spec'd oil for getting a million miles out of a Detroit Diesel, good enough for me and my little Navistar engine;D

Antifreeze I unsually run whatever is on sale that week as it gets changed on a regular basis.  The exception  being on my Ford which I buy Fleetguard 50/50 premix by the gallon thru work as it's already pre-charged with DCA inhibitor.

Filters....  
Purolator or Fram extended life filters in the Grand Am
K&N oil filters in my W250
Motorcraft or Fleetguard filters in my Superduty
 

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I use NAPA brand stuff.

 

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I run regular valvoline 10/30-10/40 I`m goona start to run a regular stright 40 or 50
since its hot in florida summers. I run napa filters
 

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I stand by Brad Penn racing oil. 

Lately in my street driven vehicles I have been using O'reilly brand oil.  I've used Valvoline and mobil synthetic in the past.  I think regular oil changes and quality filters are more important.  Fram filters are NOT quality filters.
 
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Valvoline or Castrol.  IMO, any quality oil is OK as long as you change it. Oil in my 11 year old 440 has never been so much as slightly dark, motor's spotless inside.

My RC's rear main leaks a qt about every 500 mi, so I pour whatever's handy in it. Quaker State, Pennzoil or whatever. Still change it regularly though, I'm a maintenance freak.
 

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{cool} thats what makes things last longer. take care of your stuff ur stuff takes care of u. lol a well taken care of engien should last anywhere between 300 - 400 thousand atleast
 

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i will stand by penzoil to the death for gas rigs, and for diesels i run chevron, and i run wix filters in everything
 

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lugnuts said:
I'm a maintenance freak.
you say that like its a bad thing
 

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NAPA oil in my diesels with napa/wix filters

Valvoline in my gas powered cars and trucks with napa/wix filters

Gear lubes I run AMSOIL severe gear
 
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I run synthetics as well. They last longer and protect better. I have even switched over to the synthetic 2 cycle oil for my dirt bike and cut the oil way back from 24:1 to 40:1 with out any problems other than not fouling plugs as much.
 

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In my Gravely mower I run 30w HD :)

In the Hemi Durango it is Mobil 1 5w-30w. Never deviate.
In the RC I run Shell Rotella 10w30 diesel oil. Why? It is relatively cheap and it still contain the zinc phosphates that "energy conserving" oil does not have. Since the 360 Magnum in it has a roller cam, it is less of a concern, but the RC leads a hard life.

Here is a GOOD article concerning engine oils:

http://www.hughesengines.com/TechArticles/203engineoils.php
 

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In a broad over generalization, if you have a carburetor, you are typically best off with a 5w40 or 15w40 depending on climate.

That is a sweeping generalization, and some engines require something else, for example air cooled vw engines.

Fuel injected engines do not typically need this, since they are typically roller motors. The extra addtives won't hurt the engine, but may pose a risk to late model emission controlled catyltic conveter equipped cars.


it doesn't matter what your dad used, what you used 15, 10, or even 2 years ago. Same goes for gasoline, coca cola, or anything else. Formulations change over time. Those are indicated by the API logos. So whether you used castrol, wolfs head, pzoil, or anything else, that does not mean anything.


Anyone who swears by any oil, or just curious, needs to pony up the $20 to do a oil analysis. Engine not worth $20?


Currently I run john deere, but the current walmart supertech has very impressive lab results. That is specific to CJ4 15w40 blend.

Fleetguard synthetic filters for me. {cool}
 
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