Where to drill to change window motors By jto
Submitted By: jto
Date: November 16, 2008, 11:46:14 PM
Views: 3385
Where to drill to change window motors - jto
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The window motor looks something like this.
sorry, but I did not take my motor out. You might want to check the gears under the plate first. If your motor is spinning/whining and the window goes nowhere, it's probably the plastic worm gear. $19.95 VS $139.00 when I did mine!
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Here is the passenger window with the door panel removed.
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I can't remember exactly why this bolt is here. I think it holds the window channel and bottom of the window motor. Anyway, I replaced it with stainless for some reason. The panel that is on it's side in the picture is held in by: 2 phillips screws under door strap, 1 by door handle, 7/16ths bolt on door release, and clips from behind. I bought a bag(10) of ten clips from the dealer before I started. Please note your bottom panel does not have to be removed.
It is primer grey where I had drilled to get to the 3 bolts that hold the motor in. I didn't want it to rust where I had drilled.
The lower bolt hole on the right was just enlarged with a dremel tool. A drill and a file will work fine.
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here is a closer shot
note holes A and B are pretty big, enough to get a 1/4 inch drive 7/16ths(?) socket in.
The big hole C was already there, the lower left was filed/dremeled to get to the head of the motor bolt.
If possible, leave window in up position with a little room on top to hold/adjust window while you take the motor out.
Don't remove any pop rivets, they hold the scissored window arms that are spring loaded.
Check your tracks too, make sure they are well greased and enclosed in the top and bottom.
The visquene/plastic goes back inside the door and behind the door speaker if you have them.
If you don't, you'll let water seep into your lower panel.
The driver's door took 1 1/2 days, the passenger door took 3 1/2 hours. (took an hour to get the motor)
Make sure to kick down some cash to RCC if you find this helpful.
HAVE FUN!
Date: November 16, 2008, 11:46:14 PM
Views: 3385
Where to drill to change window motors - jto
The window motor looks something like this.
sorry, but I did not take my motor out. You might want to check the gears under the plate first. If your motor is spinning/whining and the window goes nowhere, it's probably the plastic worm gear. $19.95 VS $139.00 when I did mine!
Here is the passenger window with the door panel removed.
I can't remember exactly why this bolt is here. I think it holds the window channel and bottom of the window motor. Anyway, I replaced it with stainless for some reason. The panel that is on it's side in the picture is held in by: 2 phillips screws under door strap, 1 by door handle, 7/16ths bolt on door release, and clips from behind. I bought a bag(10) of ten clips from the dealer before I started. Please note your bottom panel does not have to be removed.
It is primer grey where I had drilled to get to the 3 bolts that hold the motor in. I didn't want it to rust where I had drilled.
The lower bolt hole on the right was just enlarged with a dremel tool. A drill and a file will work fine.
here is a closer shot
note holes A and B are pretty big, enough to get a 1/4 inch drive 7/16ths(?) socket in.
The big hole C was already there, the lower left was filed/dremeled to get to the head of the motor bolt.
If possible, leave window in up position with a little room on top to hold/adjust window while you take the motor out.
Don't remove any pop rivets, they hold the scissored window arms that are spring loaded.
Check your tracks too, make sure they are well greased and enclosed in the top and bottom.
The visquene/plastic goes back inside the door and behind the door speaker if you have them.
If you don't, you'll let water seep into your lower panel.
The driver's door took 1 1/2 days, the passenger door took 3 1/2 hours. (took an hour to get the motor)
Make sure to kick down some cash to RCC if you find this helpful.
HAVE FUN!
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