[Alex_M]

Hey guys. Just about have my manual swap finished up, but I'm missing a piece. Anyone know what part of my clutch linkage I'm missing? Should go between the two parts here unless I've just got something terribly wrong.

Also, anyone know what the part number is on the bushings that go in the ends of the pivot tube, around the pivot balls, in the piece of the linkage to the left? Or what they're actually called? Thanks!

 

[Elwenil]

The Z-bar bearings are Mopar 4210690 and were still available the last time I checked. You will need 4 of them. The seals are 2265942. The clip for the inboard side is 2401910. The piece you are missing is the adjustment rod, nut, washer and insulator. You also appear to be missing the fork spring.

This should help:

https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts-list/1986-dodge-d250/clutch-controls-clutch.html

 

[deathrowdave]

Elwenil has defined all that is needed . I have recently removed manual mechanical linkage in favor of hydraulic setup. My old mechanical linkage push rod that you are missing was worn so badly , I removed the OEM pin and made my push rod using a Heim joint and threaded rod .  Best as I can remember I used a poly shock bushing that fit the throw out fork also .

 

[Alex_M]

Deeelightful.

I just started doing some machining classes for a certification. I wonder if they have a ball turner? If they do I could just turn some new bushings out of bronze.

The adjustment rod shouldn't be too hard to make. Split a piece of threaded rod with  a cut off wheel and braze in a hardened washer or two.

Thanks gentlemen!

 

[Alex_M]

Also, just checked. Those bushing are available. For $30 each... Crazy.

I don't usually have the snap ring. I clipped it around the window crank so I wouldn't lose it.

 

[SuperBurban]

Here is a pic that shows the linkage. The red line is where the return spring should be. Its just a spring, get an assortment form the help section, most have the spring, and a long straight end, you bend them to fit the length you need.

Something is not right, the lever should be in front of the clutch arm, and push it backwards.

I've included a bunch of pics from my file, maybe one will help. The last two, show the ball on the bellhousing, and the end that mounts on the frame, that was for the 70's trucks, later ones (Don't know what year they switched), have the other end mounted to the underside of the floor.

I swapped the ends on mine with heim joints, I'll keep ;looking for the pics.

 

[SuperBurban]

Also, just checked. Those bushing are available. For $30 each... Crazy.

That is crazy, the stock ones are just plastic. Find some solid plastic rod, cut the grove with a lathe, slice it down the middle. then hit it with a ball mill to cut the inside. Then cut them to length. Maybe someone can post some measurements.

 

[deathrowdave]

Car bushings are a bunch cheaper . They will work but are not near as hearty as truck designed bushings . White =car Brown= truck bushings

 

[Alex_M]

Thank you, those pictures will be a huge help. I have the floor mounted plate type. I'm hoping I don't have an issue with my exhaust. I figured out that it pushes instead of pulls. I think I'll be ok if I have it bend forward immediately and then down and back. I'm running Magnum engine headers which are rear dump instead of center.

I also got lucky. I still have one good bushing to measure. My school already has some brass stock. I'm thinking I might even drill one on each side and cut a grease groove, add a nipple on the outside to add a squirt once in a while. That should out last the lot of us.

I'll post up some pictures of what I get together.

Here is a pic that shows the linkage. The red line is where the return spring should be. Its just a spring, get an assortment form the help section, most have the spring, and a long straight end, you bend them to fit the length you need.

Something is not right, the lever should be in front of the clutch arm, and push it backwards.

I've included a bunch of pics from my file, maybe one will help. The last two, show the ball on the bellhousing, and the end that mounts on the frame, that was for the 70's trucks, later ones (Don't know what year they switched), have the other end mounted to the underside of the floor.

I swapped the ends on mine with heim joints, I'll keep ;looking for the pics.

 

[Alex_M]

Well, got the bushings turned out today. First two are a little rough, second two came pretty nice. I turned out the whole round on the lathe, chamfered the ends, and cut the groove. 90 thousanths wide groove, outside edge 300 thousandths from the outside of the piece. 1" length, .940" diameter.

The second set that came nicely I actually just milled the oiecebin half, wasting half the material I recommend doing it that way.

Then I used a 3/4” ball mill. The ball is technically .700", but it doesn't need to be a super precision fit. Center line is .330 from the nearest edge if the outside groove.

Then on two of the four pieces I flipped it over, milled a groove, and drilled a hole. That is so I can add a grease fitting to each end of the z bar. Not gonna happen till the next time I take the piece apart, but there's the idea. Anyone should be able to replicate the part with those measurements I think.

I got lucky and found a piece of bronze stock that already had the center drilled. I don't thing it's really necessary, but I used that piece anyway.

If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask.

 

[Alex_M]

 

[dodge82273]

now just drill the center of the tube and install a grease fitting , the oem had little rubber "seals" so cut some old inner tube / belting and make seals ..... nice ! only one end needs the spring clip , it keeps the whole thing  centered ...

 

[SuperBurban]

I dug through my box of grommets, and found one that worked great for a seal.

 

[Elwenil]

I wonder what those would cost if mass produced?  Can't be much more than the overly expensive plastic ones.

Very nice work.

 

[SuperBurban]

What about 3d printing them? anybody play with 3d printing yet?

Love the addition of the initials Alex. 

 

[deathrowdave]

I really don’t think God could have made those any better himself . Those are nice workmanship .

 

[flyfish]

I have access to (2) Stratsys Dimension 1200es along with 3d scanner (Master 3D Gage) but haven't played with them yet. Looking forward to it. Nice machining on the parts.

What about 3d printing them? anybody play with 3d printing yet?

Love the addition of the initials Alex.

 

[Alex_M]

I got lucky; my seals are still in good shape. I'm no machine shop, but I'd do them for $15-20 each plus material. Not sure what 1" bronze round stock coats, but oculdnt be much for that little material.

3d printing could work. I didn't bother to model them, but it could be done and they'd probably hold up. Had to add the initals... It's my first project and I spent 4 hours on them. Of course I was learning the machines at the same time. I'd say I could do the next set in about half that.

Thanks guys!

P.S. also made the little pivot for the end of the adjustable arm. I just eyeballed it from memory. I could've gone for a little smaller, but it's close enough.

Also, quick tech tip. If you need to weld on something galvanized or zinc plated, soak it in vinegar overnight. Takes the plating right off. Same goes for rust. Vinegar will take rust right off. Just wire brush it first to get scaly stuff off.

 

[Elwenil]

Nice work if those are your first few projects with a new machine. 

 

[SuperBurban]

Yes, great job.