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l,m not sayin yer wrong just confusing , because most people/members are either Gen X or dare l say "millenniums" that dont know that an internal combustion engine is a BIG " air pump" , yup l,m a baby BOOMER as l can't understand half of what the kids are sayin and they cant understand half of what l,m sayin , plus l try not to use OLD style slang/terms as the newer kids dont know it , so l try to keep it simple
 
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'79 Macho 360 Magnum, Comp 480 cam, Hughes springs, 650 Thunder AVS, Pertronix Flamethrower ignition
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Gen X was the last somewhat smart generation, it's the millenials (Gen Y) and the generation Z (Gen Z) have got to be the dumbest generations EVER (accept for those members on this site of course!) 馃榿.
 
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1987 Ramcharger. 318, auto, 4x4.
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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Zoolander, did you say you bought a Proform set up? I have one on my '87, it works fine, the previous forgot to hook up the ballast resistor, but that thing is just so overrated... So, after fixing that things are working better.
As to vacuum lines well think before you cut.
That thing, they call it a transfer case that controls your 4WD; well, it has a vacuum switch on it that controls the CAD (Centralized Axle Disconnector) and it gets the vacuum from that big vacuum pump between your front fenders. Not trying to make lite of this, but you won't find much mention of it in the Haynes manual. But it looks much like this:
Thanks for the diagram. I was tracking what you meant my vacuum pump...lol. I haven't cut anything but most of the vacuum lines were already gone. I don't think the CAD is working and I am going to flip the fork and call it a day. Then I'm going to pull out that reservoir and the lines. Simpler is better to me.

I don't think it should be an issue to have the axle connected all the time with an open front diff.
 

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1987 Ramcharger. 318, auto, 4x4.
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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Zoolander, did you say you bought a Proform set up? I have one on my '87, it works fine, the previous forgot to hook up the ballast resistor, but that thing is just so overrated... So, after fixing that things are working better.
As to vacuum lines well think before you cut.
That thing, they call it a transfer case that controls your 4WD; well, it has a vacuum switch on it that controls the CAD (Centralized Axle Disconnector) and it gets the vacuum from that big vacuum pump between your front fenders. Not trying to make lite of this, but you won't find much mention of it in the Haynes manual. But it looks much like this:
Forgot to add, yes, a Proform electronic ignition kit. On it's way and should be here on the 10th.
 

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1987 Ramcharger, 318ci/A727/NP208 on 31's
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I have had two trucks with the CAD, my current RC and my old '99 2500. The CAD in the 2500 was on a Dana 60, it worked great. The axle shafts are very robust in that application and a spit saft with a coupler is not a problem. I'm not all there when comes to a CAD on a Dana 44 like my RC. But like anything if works, I won't mess with it besides it's not hard to fix if it breaks. The main reason for the CAD is so you don't need locking hubs. Now my W200 had a Dana 44HD with locking hubs and solid axle shafts. (And I am not sure if it looked Macho or was just stupid having to get out and to lock my hubs in a storm.)
I will be the first to admit I don't really know the difference between the Dana 44 and a 44HD. The W200's front didn't have a CAD, and that front end was rugged. If I run across a CAD-less 3/4-ton front axle, I'd likely install it in my RC Adventure Rig replete with a Cummins 6BT, Dana 60 or 70 for the rear. (Well at least I'd look Macho in the rain and snow locking my hubs.)

One of the other reasons the CAD is fuel milage, you're right about the open diff not caring if the CAD is engaged, but now both shafts rotating and putting more drag on your system and so remember you milage my very. :unsure:;)

Good Luck
 

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1987 Ramcharger, 318ci/A727/NP208 on 31's
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Oh, for you Gen X/Y/Z types, replete is an '80's idiom for complete
 

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If I run across a CAD-less 3/4-ton front axle, I'd likely install it in my RC Adventure Rig replete with a Cummins 6BT, Dana 60 or 70 for the rear. (Well at least I'd look Macho in the rain and snow locking my hubs.)

ask and you shall receive

 

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1987 Ramcharger, 318ci/A727/NP208 on 31's
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PM sent.
 

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1987 Ramcharger. 318, auto, 4x4.
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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
The Proform is in! Easy install. I also started tearing the SCC stuff out. Timing is set at 7* and no pinging with the vacuum disconnected under heavy throttle. It's a night and day difference driving compared to the old distributor with zero timing advance. However, with the vacuum advance hooked up it pings under heavy throttle. I need to back off the vacuum advance. I'll do that tomorrow.

Also, the CAD vacuum is all disconnected. I figured as much.
 

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1987 Ramcharger, 318ci/A727/NP208 on 31's
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Sounds like the guy that previously owned your RC is the same as that owned mine.

I've run RC with my vac advance disconnected and it ran fine, it got me, to start thinking what's going on here. I been told that a 318/340 needs around 32 to 34 total advance. Be that as it may, using an adjustable timing light, I stated start out with the total advance at 35 degrees at like 2500 rpm/with the vacuum advance disconnected. Now here's what I do to fine tune it. Using a vacuum gauge raise advance until I get the most vacuum at idle, then back the advance down about until vacuum comes down by a1/2" Hg. Remember the vacuum and advance are going to affect the idle so that has to be balanced out. Next, I check the total advance to see if it's right. If so cool, if not well I recheck my set up. I then keep at it until it's right. Your engine was designed to run as a lean burn computer-controlled motor, and now it's been turned into a carb and braker motor. that has a roller cam. There is no reason it won't run like any other motor.

My CAD was disconnected as well, I reconnected it. The disconnector disengages the differential in the center section of the, which allows the frontend to free wheel when not pulling you out of a mudhole. It's simple system and a lot more reliable than that system used in newer vehicles that have an electrical solenoid my old Tahoe to select 4WD.
 
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1987 Ramcharger. 318, auto, 4x4.
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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Sounds like the guy that previously owned your RC is the same as that owned mine.

I've run RC with my vac advance disconnected and it ran fine, it got me, to start thinking what's going on here. I been told that a 318/340 needs around 32 to 34 total advance. Be that as it may, using an adjustable timing light, I stated start out with the total advance at 35 degrees at like 2500 rpm/with the vacuum advance disconnected. Now here's what I do to fine tune it. Using a vacuum gauge raise advance until I get the most vacuum at idle, then back the advance down about until vacuum comes down by a1/2" Hg. Remember the vacuum and advance are going to affect the idle so that has to be balanced out. Next, I check the total advance to see if it's right. If so cool, if not well I recheck my set up. I then keep at it until it's right. Your engine was designed to run as a lean burn computer-controlled motor, and now it's been turned into a carb and braker motor. that has a roller cam. There is no reason it won't run like any other motor.

My CAD was disconnected as well, I reconnected it. The disconnector disengages the differential in the center section of the, which allows the frontend to free wheel when not pulling you out of a mudhole. It's simple system and a lot more reliable than that system used in newer vehicles that have an electrical solenoid my old Tahoe to select 4WD.
Yep, figuring out what the last person did isn't always fun, especially when it involves two miles of vacuum lines that are missing and wiring that's been cut, spliced, and who knows what. I found one of the fusible links was repaired using a solid strand copper wire...that's on the list to repair soon.

I don't have the adjustable timing light, yet, but I do have the el cheapo vacuum gauge. I do need to double check my vacuum port. It's a Holley 2280 and I used the vacuum port on the right front when looking at the carb (shown with red arrow below). I am also going to back the initial timing off. The Proform directions call for 5* and I'm at 7*. I'm sure it will take me a few tries to get it right.

As for the CAD, the vacuum tree is gone from my intake and the hole is welded up. I don't think I want to mess around with it. So the plan is to flip the fork on the axle and if drivability doesn't change then I'll leave it as is. A lot of newer vehicles have front axles without disconnects that drive just fine.


Motor vehicle Organism Font Mode of transport Auto part
 

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1987 Ramcharger, 318ci/A727/NP208 on 31's
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You're not going to find a Dana 44 in and STIv. Some vehicles are designed with AWD mostly called Subaru's and Audi's and 4WD doesn't make a Dodge into a Quattro! ;)
 

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1987 Ramcharger. 318, auto, 4x4.
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Discussion Starter · #53 · (Edited)
You're not going to find a Dana 44 in and STIv. Some vehicles are designed with AWD mostly called Subaru's and Audi's and 4WD doesn't make a Dodge into a Quattro! ;)
I'm not sure what you mean by this...Wrangler Rubicons use a Dana 44 without an axle disconnect and do just fine. Why can't mine? I've got an NP208 t-case, which is part time. Unless I put the lever in 4hi or 4lo, the front driveshaft isn't going to spin.
 

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You're not going to find a Dana 44 in and STIv. Some vehicles are designed with AWD mostly called Subaru's and Audi's and 4WD doesn't make a Dodge into a Quattro! ;)

my 1996 dodge dakota [ url]AUTOMAG [/url] 500 horse 5.9 that spins the frontend non-stop [ No-CAD]
 
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1987 Ramcharger, 318ci/A727/NP208 on 31's
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You're missing the point. The whole front-end assembly is turning as the vehicle moves down the road, if both axles are engaged. This causes drag on the front axle and increased ware on that axle. The whole reason for locking hugs is to allow you to free up the front differential so it free wheels. Someone got smart enough to figure out that if you disconnect one axel shaft would let the deferential wouldn't be under load.

But what is so cool about the system is you have a vacuum switch on the T-case that causes the front diff disengage just by shifting into 2HI. Look there are more than one way to do this than a CAD, the CAD was new in the '80's, today we have Quaife, torsion, viscus systems and I had a VW Syncro system and to tell you the truth I don't know how it worked that well. Fact is so what that a Rubicon doesn't have a CAD, new Jeeps have to meet CAFE standard and that means reducing parasitic drag. How they do it, not my problem. But if you think that Rubicon's front Dana 44 is always grinding you have another thing coming. I'll be the first to tell you I don't' know enough about this either one way or the other.

In our case, a 4000-pound 4WD with a CAD it's better that it works than not.
 

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You will never notice the slight extra drag from a front axle being engaged all the time, as far as fuel mileage. Even the extra wear is so nill, that you will never see it, unless you do not lube the U-joints. Most of my trucks have not been unlocked in years. The only time I unlock a front axle is if I remember, before I go on the highway.
 

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1987 Ramcharger. 318, auto, 4x4.
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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
You're missing the point. The whole front-end assembly is turning as the vehicle moves down the road, if both axles are engaged. This causes drag on the front axle and increased ware on that axle. The whole reason for locking hugs is to allow you to free up the front differential so it free wheels. Someone got smart enough to figure out that if you disconnect one axel shaft would let the deferential wouldn't be under load.

But what is so cool about the system is you have a vacuum switch on the T-case that causes the front diff disengage just by shifting into 2HI. Look there are more than one way to do this than a CAD, the CAD was new in the '80's, today we have Quaife, torsion, viscus systems and I had a VW Syncro system and to tell you the truth I don't know how it worked that well. Fact is so what that a Rubicon doesn't have a CAD, new Jeeps have to meet CAFE standard and that means reducing parasitic drag. How they do it, not my problem. But if you think that Rubicon's front Dana 44 is always grinding you have another thing coming. I'll be the first to tell you I don't' know enough about this to you one way or the other.

In our case, a 4000-pound 4WD with a CAD it's better that it works than not.
Once again, my CAD is completely disconnected. Instead of coming up with creative solutions to put a factory system back into work, I'm going to go the easy and reliable route of flipping the CAD fork. I'll take the extra bit of drag.
 

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1987 Ramcharger, 318ci/A727/NP208 on 31's
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Who says you can't notice it. My '69 W200 only had power steering when lock in 4HI. ;)
 

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I bet if I keep up on this CAD sub-thread Zoolander will take this central axle disconnector to the grave.

"So, what killed Zoolander Sensei?" :confused: "He was wed to the not using engine vacuum for disabling the axle disconnector discourse." 馃槓 "Sensei for real?" :rolleyes: "Yes" 馃槓 . . . NO! :eek:

Zoolander have a great day!
 

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I've run RC with my vac advance disconnected and it ran fine, it got me, to start thinking what's going on here. I been told that a 318/340 needs around 32 to 34 total advance. Be that as it may, using an adjustable timing light, I stated start out with the total advance at 35 degrees at like 2500 rpm/with the vacuum advance disconnected.
This works well on the drag strip when the engine is always WOT, but on the street is not really recommended. It will run fine, but fuel economy will suffer and these things aren't really known for great mileage anyway. When you say 32-34* total advance, that is total Mechanical advance, Vacuum advance is designed for part throttle operation.

With a properly set up vacuum advance, you can be pulling around 50* ( mechanical + vacuum) at cruise which will help, not much, but some with the fuel bill.

Mark
 
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