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'79 Macho 360 Magnum, Comp 480 cam, Hughes springs, 650 Thunder AVS, Pertronix Flamethrower ignition
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One reviewer states it's just 3 wires, but it looks like you have some kind of box right above your distributor. Is that part of the system or something else?
See, this is why reviews are to be taken carefully, no it's only 2 wires, a positive and a negative that go straight to the coil. What you see behind my distributor is the Pertronix 45,000 volt high current coil and my voltage regulator on the wall. I can't stand the sight of those messy wires back there.
 

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'79 Macho 360 Magnum, Comp 480 cam, Hughes springs, 650 Thunder AVS, Pertronix Flamethrower ignition
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And my cheap $65 HEI dizzys have been doing great. Paying more does not always get you more.
I don't knock the Chevy HEI conversion at all, infact I ran the same setup for a few years before I bought the Pertronix stuff but the reason I bought the Pertronix stuff was because my factory dizzy shit the bed on me. The bearings dun seized up and she started squealing like a stuck pig so I had to replace it but I didn't want to replace it with another old dizzy and so I bought a new over the counter dizzy and that too shit the bed about a year later and so I just bit the bullet and ponied up for something better and American made. I was impressed at how well and smooth it still spins 10 years later. For a $156 bux American you can buy just the module and swap it to a factory dizzy no problem and with that module you get: Solid-State Ignition Systems
These PerTronix Ignitor III庐 solid-state ignition systems feature an adaptive dwell that maintains peak energy throughout the entire rpm range, reducing misfires while improving engine performance. Peak current level is reached just prior to spark for maximum energy without the heat buildup, increasing coil performance and module reliability. They adjust spark timing at higher rpm to compensate for the inherent electronic delay, sense startup, and develop more energy for quicker, easier starting. The PerTronix Ignitor III庐 solid-state ignition systems have a built-in LED for user feedback confirmation of the rev limiter setting.
Made in America!!!! <-------

 

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'79 Macho 360 Magnum, Comp 480 cam, Hughes springs, 650 Thunder AVS, Pertronix Flamethrower ignition
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True, but if you ever want to hear the stereo in your truck a magneto might not be the best choice. Every time them Sprint Cars come screaming past the announcers booth the entire p.a. system goes haywire with static. Lol
 

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I don't knock the Chevy HEI conversion at all, infact I ran the same setup for a few years before I bought the Pertronix stuff but the reason I bought the Pertronix stuff was because my factory dizzy shit the bed on me. The bearings dun seized up and she started squealing like a stuck pig so I had to replace it but I didn't want to replace it with another old dizzy and so I bought a new over the counter dizzy and that too shit the bed about a year later and so I just bit the bullet and ponied up for something better and American made. I was impressed at how well and smooth it still spins 10 years later. For a $156 bux American you can buy just the module and swap it to a factory dizzy no problem and with that module you get: Solid-State Ignition Systems
These PerTronix Ignitor III庐 solid-state ignition systems feature an adaptive dwell that maintains peak energy throughout the entire rpm range, reducing misfires while improving engine performance. Peak current level is reached just prior to spark for maximum energy without the heat buildup, increasing coil performance and module reliability. They adjust spark timing at higher rpm to compensate for the inherent electronic delay, sense startup, and develop more energy for quicker, easier starting. The PerTronix Ignitor III庐 solid-state ignition systems have a built-in LED for user feedback confirmation of the rev limiter setting.
Made in America!!!! <-------

That is a lot of do-da to fit into such a tiny package. Especially one that does not have any type of cooling. I do have a hard time believing it does any more then any other system. Somewhere I have the spec sheet for an ignition micro controller, developed by I think Texas Instruments back in the 60's. I believe it is what most electronic ignition systems used back then, along with their few follow on designs. The only real difference is in the pickup design. I just do not see any value for the extra money.
 

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True, but if you ever want to hear the stereo in your truck a magneto might not be the best choice, lol.
That can easily be controlled. Many small airplanes still used dual magnetos, without any RFI issues.
 

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'79 Macho 360 Magnum, Comp 480 cam, Hughes springs, 650 Thunder AVS, Pertronix Flamethrower ignition
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Well, it does have a rev limiter, I've tested it, and it does have great throttle response and good power, good fuel economy and easy starts - especially with an electric fuel pump. I was worried about cooling also but Pertronix swears that it stays cool through a heatsink. Again, I've had mine for 10 years now and it's been flawless 馃槏
 

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See, this is why reviews are to be taken carefully, no it's only 2 wires, a positive and a negative that go straight to the coil. What you see behind my distributor is the Pertronix 45,000 volt high current coil and my voltage regulator on the wall. I can't stand the sight of those messy wires back there.
I see. So you still use the mopar ignition box and just shitcan the ballast resistor then?
 

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'79 Macho 360 Magnum, Comp 480 cam, Hughes springs, 650 Thunder AVS, Pertronix Flamethrower ignition
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Nope. NO Mopar ignition module and NO ballast resistor. Just 2 wires from the dizzy straight to the coil - and that's it. Made in America HEI ignition by Pertronix.
 

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Nope. NO Mopar ignition module and NO ballast resistor. Just 2 wires from the dizzy straight to the coil - and that's it. Made in America HEI ignition by Pertronix.
Ok, The two wires, positive and negative, from the distributor go to the coil, is that right? Where is the initial 12v source wired to? And is it the start voltage or the run voltage? Or do they need to be wired together so it will start and run?

Eliminating the box sounds like a lot of removal of the original harness. This is probably much simpler than I'm making it out to be. A simple diagram would help, does pertronix provide that?
 

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just so you know the 'pertronix" and the factory Chrysler ECM ignition are basically the SAME thing its just the pertronix is more compact inside the Dist [ they are BOTH hall effect pickup systems ]

also the 71385 kit is the wrong one [ it's for dual point Dist ] read the "overview" on the summit link / besides the pertronix kits are for points Dist ONLY


the "KIT" you need is below

 

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'79 Macho 360 Magnum, Comp 480 cam, Hughes springs, 650 Thunder AVS, Pertronix Flamethrower ignition
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Ok, The two wires, positive and negative, from the distributor go to the coil, is that right? Where is the initial 12v source wired to? And is it the start voltage or the run voltage? Or do they need to be wired together so it will start and run?

Eliminating the box sounds like a lot of removal of the original harness. This is probably much simpler than I'm making it out to be. A simple diagram would help, does pertronix provide that?
Yes, it's a red positive and a black ground from the dizzy to the positive and negative posts on the coil. The coil is then charged by the trigger wire in the factory harness which goes to the positive side of the coil. You can leave all of the factory wiring and brain box alone if you want and just bypass it all, that way you can always go back to the original stuff in 2 seconds if you wanted. I myself removed all of those wires and the brain box for a cleaner look. I have a spare engine harness so I didn't care about chopping wires. It's simple, reliable, powerful and I think it's the only setup that bypasses the ballast resistor on the market. And it's American made.
 
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1987 Ramcharger. 318, auto, 4x4.
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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Yes, it's a red positive and a black ground from the dizzy to the positive and negative posts on the coil. The coil is then charged by the trigger wire in the factory harness which goes to the positive side of the coil. You can leave all of the factory wiring and brain box alone if you want and just bypass it all, that way you can always go back to the original stuff in 2 seconds if you wanted. I myself removed all of those wires and the brain box for a cleaner look. I have a spare engine harness so I didn't care about chopping wires. It's simple, reliable, powerful and I think it's the only setup that bypasses the ballast resistor on the market. And it's American made.
When you say brain box, are you referring to the spark control computer that was behind the battery under the fender? If so, did removing it cause any other issues? As soon as I get my new ignition system I'm going to remove the SCC and all the wires that go with it.
 

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'79 Macho 360 Magnum, Comp 480 cam, Hughes springs, 650 Thunder AVS, Pertronix Flamethrower ignition
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The Pertronix system takes the FULL 12 volts to the module. No ballast.
 

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'79 Macho 360 Magnum, Comp 480 cam, Hughes springs, 650 Thunder AVS, Pertronix Flamethrower ignition
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When you say brain box, are you referring to the spark control computer that was behind the battery under the fender? If so, did removing it cause any other issues? As soon as I get my new ignition system I'm going to remove the SCC and all the wires that go with it.
The "brain box" is the factory ECM. It's just an old school nickname for it.
 

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'79 Macho 360 Magnum, Comp 480 cam, Hughes springs, 650 Thunder AVS, Pertronix Flamethrower ignition
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just so you know the 'pertronix" and the factory Chrysler ECM ignition are basically the SAME thing its just the pertronix is more compact inside the Dist [ they are BOTH hall effect pickup systems ]

also the 71385 kit is the wrong one [ it's for dual point Dist ] read the "overview" on the summit link / besides the pertronix kits are for points Dist ONLY


the "KIT" you need is below

Yes you are right. My bad.
 

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1987 Ramcharger, 318ci/A727/NP208 on 31's
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Zoolander, did you say you bought a Proform set up? I have one on my '87, it works fine, the previous forgot to hook up the ballast resistor, but that thing is just so overrated... So, after fixing that things are working better.
As to vacuum lines well think before you cut.
That thing, they call it a transfer case that controls your 4WD; well, it has a vacuum switch on it that controls the CAD (Centralized Axle Disconnector) and it gets the vacuum from that big vacuum pump between your front fenders. Not trying to make lite of this, but you won't find much mention of it in the Haynes manual. But it looks much like this:
Product Font Motor vehicle Engineering Auto part
 
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That thing, they call it a transfer case that controls your 4WD; well, it has a vacuum switch on it that controls the CAD (Centralized Axle Disconnector) and it gets the vacuum from that big vacuum pump between your front fenders. Not trying to make lite of this, but you won't find much mention of it in the Haynes manual. But it looks much like this:
View attachment 625338

that my friend is "confusing" to say the least

HOW the CAD system works is vacuum from the engine [ NO pump ] supplies the t-case mounted position switch ,which when shifted supplies vacuum to the front axle actuator[ shift motor ] to engage the frontend

Motor vehicle Font Organism Wheel Tire
 

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1987 Ramcharger, 318ci/A727/NP208 on 31's
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Irony: The Internal Combustion Engine is a Vacuum pump, the LA 318ci is rather large, (i.e. Big) it resides between the "fenders". If it is obvious to me, it should be obvious to most of us. This is not tapping the space key 5 times obvious. But hey DB I appreciate how much you care and trust me I would not lead anyone astray.

When I was a young lad, my Dad said you can learn to drive on the turn rows of our farm. He thought I'd get stuck in that Louisiana farm mud around our house. It was a D100 slant w/3 on the tree. It never got stuck because I learned what the limits of that truck were. Most don't know their limits.

I've owned:
99 2500 4x4
69 W200
Now 87 RC

If I had my druthers, I turn them all into one with the addition of a 6BT.
 
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