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the door will still close with them hanging out, but yeah, just used some old nylon cinch strap so they can be pulled in.
Driving down the road they would be constantly smacking the rockers. I'd real them in. Good way to pique the intrest of them cowgirls tho! LOL
 
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I hit the truck with some 3M Perfect-It II compound and a wool pad today.....and installed the drivers side step :)
 

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'79 Macho 360 Magnum, Comp 480 cam, Hughes springs, 650 Thunder AVS, Pertronix Flamethrower ignition
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Ya that 3M stuff works pretty good 👍
 

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Today, we went for a cruise up & down the beach in the Ramcharger. The fuel sending unit is officially dead (brand new from 521 restorations) and of course the truck has a nearly full tank, so it’s gotta get dropped again :(. Truck ran great after rebuilding and doing some tuning on the distributor, but after having to give it the beans in 4Hi Loc for about a mile straight thru powder soft sand that was all rutted up, it developed a nasty shake right off idle that goes away with any throttle input over 1100rpm so I’ve gotta sort that out.
 

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'79 Macho 360 Magnum, Comp 480 cam, Hughes springs, 650 Thunder AVS, Pertronix Flamethrower ignition
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It's odd your sending unit doesn't work from 521 restorations because both of mine are from there and mine still work great after 5 years so far and I noticed they are made in America so its odd yours failed. Could it also be why your truck isn't running properly? I've seen sending units cause stumbling due to sucking in air.
 

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It's odd your sending unit doesn't work from 521 restorations because both of mine are from there and mine still work great after 5 years so far and I noticed they are made in America so its odd yours failed. Could it also be why your truck isn't running properly? I've seen sending units cause stumbling due to sucking in air.

the first time I put fuel in it...It read Full when the tank was full, but by the time I had used 10 gallons, it was down to a 1/2 tank so I figured I got a shit unit. Now that it's DOA, I'm thinking that the float failed. I've already got a new stewart warner lifecell float as I bought two of them when I fixed my 70 R/T.

I emailed 521 Restorations about it a while back, but never got a reply, so more than likely I'll never do business with them again. I should have NEVER thrown away the original sending unit and I should have had it restored instead....it was rusty and ugly, but there's a few people out there that will either restore it, or restore and transfer over the float part to a new stainless sending unit.

Either way, even though it sucks that I have to drop the tank, I'll finally get to add a dedicated return line like I should have done the first time.
 

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'79 Macho 360 Magnum, Comp 480 cam, Hughes springs, 650 Thunder AVS, Pertronix Flamethrower ignition
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Vans Auto has new sending units also.
 

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I decided to do something that has bothered me since getting this truck driving again, and that was a rear gear oil leak.

It leaked from the first time I drove it, but only bad enough to make dust/sand stick to the wheel and not drip. Pulled everything apart and the only thing "off" I could find was an ever so slight groove in the seal surface on the spindle. I put a Speedi-Sleve on it and used a Unitized seal (National 370150A https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009RTQ716 ) after reading about others success on the cummins forums. Having said all that, I don't think I needed the speedi-sleeve since I went with the unitized seal though, and installing it was a HUGE PITA.


On Sunday I drop the tank and figure out the fuel sending issue.
 

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rebuilt the carb on the slant 6 it still bothers me that after all work making sure it s all good and clean and it still doesn't run perfect. thought my issue may have been between the gasket and intake so RTV'd it to the intake which may have helped but still had an issue. damn throttle shaft is sucking are also. tempted to glue a cap over it since it seems to be leaking the worst. hit it with brake clean and the engine runs a lot better. it does at least seem to be holding fuel so it starts a lot better after sitting where before it would leak all its fuel onto the intake when you let it sit.
 

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'79 Macho 360 Magnum, Comp 480 cam, Hughes springs, 650 Thunder AVS, Pertronix Flamethrower ignition
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I was going to say the throttle shaft, its the most overlooked part of the carb and yet it receives the most wear. The base plate can be an issue also. The heavier the return spring, the more it wears the shaft out. If you know of a machine shop get them to make you an oversized shaft and have them bore your plate to match.
 

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I got my dedicated fuel return line run from the front frame rail to the tank ( NiCopp is SOOOO much easier to work with than Steel or stainless) I got all my electrical harness loomed up and secured from the rear axle back (easier now since the fuel tank is out). Tomorrow my fuel line retaining clips get delivered and I'll secure the line I ran and re-install the tank.

Not really excited about buying 36 gallons of fuel to fill it up though :(
 

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rebuilt the carb on the slant 6 it still bothers me that after all work making sure it s all good and clean and it still doesn't run perfect. thought my issue may have been between the gasket and intake so RTV'd it to the intake which may have helped but still had an issue. damn throttle shaft is sucking are also. tempted to glue a cap over it since it seems to be leaking the worst. hit it with brake clean and the engine runs a lot better. it does at least seem to be holding fuel so it starts a lot better after sitting where before it would leak all its fuel onto the intake when you let it sit.

Man, that carb has some miles under its belt. I have never seen a choke shaft bore worn that much.

The base can be bored out and have a brass, or even nylon, or other hard wearing plastic bushings pushed in. But I bet you are better looking for a better core to rebuild.

I have screwed metal plates over the one end to stop leaks, cut a little gasket to fit, works great.
 

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Man, that carb has some miles under its belt. I have never seen a choke shaft bore worn that much.
i would guess it is not it is the original carb. it has a rebuilt tag so it was likely swapped at some point and with how clean the vehicle is underneath i would guess it has less than 100k miles on it. i will definitely have to do something with it. it really is not running consistently. .
 
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