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Discussion Starter · #182 ·
I bought a 6 mm cell foam and will double it at the tunnel. Now I have a problem: The Alubutyl is from Russia, the foam from Poland. Can that work together? :LOL:
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Discussion Starter · #183 ·
I have started today to bring all interior back into the RC. It is still a long way but it goes on :)

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Discussion Starter · #184 ·
Don't know why poeple work in that way... I can't solder well either, but EVERYONE gets it better. And how can it happen that all wires 10 inch from the plug of the main light switch are broken? New plug? Why?
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I used closed cell foam 9mm on the doors and floors, 6mm on the door panels(for better audio). I used two layers on the tunnel to reduce the shaft noise and it also helped with the wrinkles on carpet.

It's more or less this one but I bought the length, it was arounr 4 feet wide, it's easier to apply on flat surfaces.

Noico Red 150 mil (4mm) 36 sqft (3.4 sqm) Noico Liner Car Heat and Sound Insulation,Heat and Cool Liner, Self-Adhesive Closed Cell Foam (PE Foam) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TKXMPH7/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_AKTQVNJ2H6HY1EJTJ7R8
Thanks for that info.
I was looking for something like this for my Daytona project.
 

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Don't know why poeple work in that way... I can't solder well either, but EVERYONE gets it better. And how can it happen that all wires 10 inch from the plug of the main light switch are broken? New plug? Why? View attachment 628669
Egad! English for: you've got to be kidding me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #189 ·
Yes, it is. Even if everything I do is now better that before it will never be perfect. I'm still learning how thing to do things. The demands on quality also grow so I thing I'll do some things again in some years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #191 ·
The cables around the wheel still have to be sorted. I think I can do this better when the dash will come in. I'm still looking for a good idea how to handle the fuse box. I don't like it hanging around there.

And yes, you have to keep your workplace clean. The risc of loosing tools below the foam is too high :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #192 ·
No pictues today because I have done the cavity preservation in the roof and a-, b- & c-column. I had to drill several holes in roof and and the rear fender to get the wax in everywhere. Good news is even where much rust inside was there was still much metall, not easy to drill. The guys in detroit have used thick sheeds in the 80's. Thank you for that :) And I hope the controller who decided not to use any wax or color inside the body got a good place in hell :mad:
 
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No pictues today because I have done the cavity preservation in the roof and a-, b- & c-column. I had to drill several holes in roof and and the rear fender to get the wax in everywhere. Good news is even where much rust inside was there was still much metall, not easy to drill. The guys in detroit have used thick sheeds in the 80's. Thank you for that :) And I hope the controller who decided not to use any wax or color inside the body got a good place in hell :mad:
They didn't build them to last forever. Otherwise we wouldn't buy new cars anymore. ;D
At least, I think that's what they were thinking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #194 ·
You are right and ar least in the 70/80ies rust protection was - from todays view - bad at all suppliers. Nevertheless it's a pity that saving of some cents will let many nice cars die. Especially considering they spent a lot of dollars on the thicker metal sheets....
 

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You are right and ar least in the 70/80ies rust protection was - from todays view - bad at all suppliers. Nevertheless it's a pity that saving of some cents will let many nice cars die. Especially considering they spent a lot of dollars on the thicker metal sheets....
The tree huggers wish ALL these old cars would die.
 

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Discussion Starter · #196 ·
Nothing done for the Ramcharger today but he got something from home: This used but still nice mobile Waterloo Iowa Toolbox. Thank you U.S. Army for leaving it here!

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Next weekend I'll hopefully do a great step forward:
  • Finishing conservation (I rum out of wax but new one has already arrived)
  • mounting the dash
  • belts
  • roll bar and at least some of the plastic covers

There are only four weeks left to the oldtimer show in our shooting club!
 
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Discussion Starter · #198 ·
Progress continues, but slowly and of course new problems appeared. Rust protection is almost finished. There was some lose rust in the sills, which i sucked out with a vacuum cleaner. Now the rust stopper is hopefully everywhere. I also put some wax on top into all holes. That will hopefully prolong the lifetime of the RC until the end of mine :)

Car Vehicle Motor vehicle Steering part Vehicle door

Dashboard is back, only the gauges are still missing.

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I found a way to bring new belts into the RC without to open the new belts. The new ones from LMC (promise: fit for Ramcharger) does NOT fit. At least not when you want to keep your interior covers around the belts. Also the seat belt buckles are ugly, only black plastic. I moved the old buckle to the new belt and now I can keep the old stuff.

Wood Road surface Asphalt Brick Wall
Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive design Hood

What I not get perfect is in the green circle: You can see the polley a bit, the old one was invisible. I think that's something I can live with.

Next problem is the engine does not want to start. It has gasoline and spark but something is wrong. I think it's around the distributor. I took it out las year to bring the new oil pressure switch (for the idiot lamp) in. I can't remember if the engine run after that or not. The distributor is at least almost at the same position than before, I'm sure. That can't be the reason. The only mistake I found was I did not close the distibutor cap correct and some dirt came in, also from sandblasting. I cleaned it up but so far no progress. My neighbor who understands much more from cars than me said it looks like the sparks come in the wrong moment. Means something like ignition cable swapped but so far I have no idea how this should happen. I have another distributor. If I do not find something else I will try this one out.
 

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More than likely you got your distributor out of sync. You're going to have to find top dead center on your number one cylinder. You can do that by cranking the engine over with the spark plug out of number one cylinder and have your finger over the plug opening. You'll feel that piston come up on compression when it starts pushing air out past your finger. You're really close there. Then you got to make sure your distributor rotor is pointed at number one cylinder when you reinstall it. Then make sure your wire on your cap is at number one also. Rotor pointed at #1 cylinder. Cap and wire sitting at #1 firing.
Probably not a really good explanation there. Somebody will come by soon in here and fill in the details.
It's easy for it to get out of sync when you pull the distributor and don't mark things at the beginning.
 

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Unless the gear was pulled out, the dist rotor itself can only be right, or 180 off. Then it is only a matter of the orientation of the housing, or the plug wire order.

If you are sure the rotor was close to the original position, then just loosen the dist, and give it a turn while someone is hitting the starter. Go about 20 degs in one direction, then about 20 in the other. If it did not start, then I would pull the dist, and rotate the rotor 180 degs. Then try it all again.

If it did not start, or even before trying all that, trace all the wires starting with number 1. the firing order is on the intake, in front of the carb.
 
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