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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is a '87 RC 2 wheel drive. I need some ideas on installing the upper (screw in type) ball joints. I had alot of fun getting them out of the "A" arm. I used a crap load of torch heat to loosen them enough to get out. The "A" arms are off of the truck now.

Is there a special tool hiding out there for these or do I install the same way, lots of heat on the "A" arm and use my pipe wrench to screw in the joint?

Also does anyone sell the eccentric bolt/cam washer combos used to attach the upper "A" arm, one of mine is stripped out.

Thanks in advance to all


Chris
 

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v737d said:
This is a '87 RC 2 wheel drive. I need some ideas on installing the upper (screw in type) ball joints. I had alot of fun getting them out of the "A" arm. I used a crap load of torch heat to loosen them enough to get out. The "A" arms are off of the truck now.

Is there a special tool hiding out there for these or do I install the same way, lots of heat on the "A" arm and use my pipe wrench to screw in the joint?

Also does anyone sell the eccentric bolt/cam washer combos used to attach the upper "A" arm, one of mine is stripped out.

Thanks in advance to all

Chris
Is that ball joint one of those with 4 flat sides and rounded corners? They make a special socket for that.
If you are looking for #10 in the picture below the Mopar part number listed with the diagram is
Description: CAM & BUSHING KIT
Part #: 4447666 at about $7.
Might try calling NAPA also.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I was just at NAPA and they didn't have anything like a socket for the ball joint (yes it is the one with four corners and rounded edges), do you know who or where I can find the socket? Right now I'm down to a pipe wrench with a peice of square tubing on the end for torque
 

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I have lots of special tools used on Mopar stuff, most of them I don't know what they are. I do know that I have several sockets for ball joint removal and install. Where are you/
 

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You may have to try Snapon, Mac, Cromwell or any of the other professional tool suppliers, you know the ones that you see their trucks at the dealers. the socket will probably be 3/4" drive and you will need an adpator to go to 1/2". This is what the Snapon socket looks like. There are 2 sizes, I think the truck takes the larger size. The socket size is listed.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/pro_...=&group_id=1630&group_NAME=Ball+Joint+Sockets

 

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hey chris,
those things suck huh.
if its not together by now, take it to a shop.
they removed and replaced for $20 a side.
well worth the frustration.
i bought a socket but was to stupid to realize i had nothing big enough to drive it.
good thing the auto shop didnt hold me to my stupidity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Gasp, pant, still sweating, swearing and damning the freaking engineer who decided this was a good idea! Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.

It is all back together now (finally). Thanks for the offer MOPARDAVE but I'm a bit far away for the help.

Chump, thanks for the link, I figured there had to be a tool, unfortunately the morons working the parts stores (around the Kyle area) either refused to look for one or insisted the joints just pressed in!

Elvez, only 20 bucks, eh? I'm guessing you have a shop you trust in SA. I would trust any of the shops in Del Rio to install my rims and I didn't have any knowledge of the ones in the Kyle, south Austin area. Beside I know my luck, I would drop them off, they would go into the back to do the job and them come out about 30 minutes later showing my the "crack" they just found in my upper "A" arm!!!

Overall the learing curve was pretty steep. The passenger side joint was a m**herf**ker. It would only thread about one and a half turns before it was insanely tight and I had to really get on it with my pipe wrench. The drivers side threaded until only about one and a half turns were LEFT before I had to start reaming on it.

The truck drives great, I love my new urethane bushings and the RC no longer makes uncommanded lane changes when she hits a bump!

Thanks for the help and advice guys!

Cheers
Chris
 

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It would only thread about one and a half turns before it was insanely tight and I had to really get on it with my pipe wrench. The drivers side threaded until only about one and a half turns were LEFT before I had to start reaming on it.
I went through the same thing with my '86. I used the socket, a 3/4 impact driver and a 3' breaker bar and could only get 2 threads on the drivers side. The guy at the alignment shop said it "should" be enough. I've got about 2K miles on it with no problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I figured I had an "A" arm at the small end of the manufacturing spec and a ball joint on the large end of the same. The flats on the passenger side ball joint don't look very pretty but it is threaded all the way down. Throughout this I was wishing I had a nice rotory hydralic drill press, oh how sweet would that be?!!!

Cheers
Chris
 
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