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I know most of you guys probably arent too concerned with having a sweet stereo, but Im still 21, and I have a thing for really wanting to hear my allman bros. The guy who owned the truck before me replaced the back panel speakers, but I still have yet to see if he replaced the ones in the door. I havent gotten around to removing the door panels yet. By the way, is that a big pain? Is there anything I should know?

Last night I took the first step, and after weeks of careful shopping. ordered my head unit, a Blaupunkt from Crutchfield. I noticed some mention in another post of a big ground cable unique to these RCs, so I'll look out for that. If there is anything else I should watch out for in installation, let me know.

I have a couple questions though, for those guys who have already been through the stereo thing. My first question is about the speaker opening in the dashboard. Whats the deal with that? Why a speaker opening and no speaker? And what size is it? Since you never find a place that will be willing to sell you just one speaker, Im thinking of modifying that opening a bit and slipping in two 4" speakers. That would really give me clear sound, especially because I plan to add a subwoofer eventually. Any other recommendations for that opening?

Also, any experience with the power generated by the alternator? Im kinda worried that it wont have enough juice to power a serious amplified stereo system. If anybody has experience with that, I am dying to know how it performs. Its on my 360. ANY info on stereo upgrading would be VERY welcome, because I plan to tackle this project quickly.
 

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I have fairly large stereos in both my trucks, somwhere arond 900 watts true power. I would highly recommend a capacitor if you are going to run anymore than 500 watts. I also wouldnt do a thing with the dash speaker hole, cause anything you put in there will take away your seperation. havent had any problem with the grounds in eitherone. the door panels are easy to take off. remove your door handle, and all your screws ( watch for some that ma be hidden under plastic caps ) and pry off the door panel with a stiff putty knife..anything I can do to help, let me know...Bill
 

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I have just recently put a cd player in my dodge mud pickup. And the speaker opening in the dash is a 4"x10" cutout. Beings my truck is a 1974 this was the only stock speaker location in my truck. So I am gonna make some cutouts in my doors and probably put some 4" speakers in both doors and 6"x9" speakers in the club cab part where the jump seats use to be I think. I wish I knew what a brand new 74 club cab dodge looked like.
 

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well i can help a little on the interior of a stock club cab. its a 77 though but i dont THINK they changed much exept in the guage area. as for cutting holes in the doors i personally think it sounds like crap but thats me. i wont cut my doors PLUS it gives one more thing to KICK when you get out. unless its in the door factory i would not cut them if at all possible. as for the 6x9 location in the club cab... i have mine in boxes behind the jump seats. they sound decent unless my kids put their bags over em:D
 

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Your best bet is to just leave the speaker in the dash alone, just take it out. Just get a good set of 6x9's for the doors and whatever else you want for wherever. I have a set of Pioneer 6x9's in the doors coming off of a pioneer deck and that is it until I finish the wiring for my subs. Likely you have the 63 amp alt on your rc. If you plan on adding any kind of a system to it, you NEED to upgrade your alt. I snagged a 120 amp out of an 88 van that will bolt in with a few mods to the alt bracket and added a dual battery/isolator setup. I have about an 800 watt system for my subs. Someone mentioned capacitators so I'll throw in my 2 cents. They are garbage. I have 2 1 farad caps and they are useless. They do more harm then good. The idea behind them is good, extra juice right there if you need it, but what happens when they need to be recharged, the extra load it takes to keep them charged is an added drain on the system because they are constantly needing to be recharged. A second battery and a bigger alt is the only solution to lack of power for hungry stereos. If anybody is foolish enough to want capacitators I will capitalize on your foolishness and you can buy mine. :p
 

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yup capacitor no match for optima battery and denso alternator found on newer dodge rams (rated 130amps) max output is actually 164amps.

my coworker built a little system. built a sub woofer box and actually spent time to tune ports. if you look into ports can actually see ripples in air like heat waves on road. is using 1 farad cap.

now car wont hardly crank.

doors are not ideal places for speakers. ford uses a plastic sealed box for door speakers on JBL premium sound equipped cars. the box defeintly helps but its easier to just mount em else where.
 

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I said thi sin another thread somewhere, but one way to go for front speakers, without cutting holes in any metal is to make your own kick panel boxes.

Use the existing panels as a base, build a frame, attach it to your kick panel, piont it at your face, surround it in fiberglass (you could use epoxy too), sand, paint and your done.

Yeah, its more work. But you can't beat the sound they offer.
 

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What would you guys think about an old Dodge being entered in a bass comp? My friends are trying to convince me to build my truck kinda show like and chop the bed and cab, and port it, and use it as a bass comp truck. I want a mud truck tho. What do you guys think? It'd be fun to tear thru a feed pond while jamming Slipknot or Pantera and feel like you're in a damn vibrator. Don't know tho, they say if I go that way, I won't be able to play like that. But I DO EVER SO WANT A SYSTEM!!
 

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id buy a cheaper 2wd model and play with the custom stuff.

id love to do it but must realize to be truely competive you gotta scratch most everything your buddies put into your head. prolly if you see other people runnin the equiptment on the street, it aint potent enuf ;D

forget about stuff like audiobahn rockford pioneer ect ect if competition is truely on your mind.

only brand name subs i know that do well in local competition is solo x and jlw7. both pretty pricey. then you must work carefully to calculate box volume and port dimensions.

dont forget a good amp. maybe a class d mono block amp. price is coming down. look into some of the brands people scoff at. people on the street scoff at lanzar. what they dont know is lanzar came out with some stuff that is used in competition. were talking 2000watts RMS for around $250.

do some research if competition is on your mind.
 

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Crutchfield....good. They should include a connector with pigtails so you can make your own connector specifically made to connect a dodge radio harness to your aftermarket head unit harness (no splicing). They should also include the dash insert you need to install the head unit in the factory radio opening.

You will probably have to run the ground wire from the head unit harness to a screw behind the dash (they are abundant :) ) Make sure you plug the radio antenna in. Since it sounds like you intend on adding an amp and sub later, make sure to splice additional wire onto the 'remote wire/power antenna wire' from the head unit harness, and leave it where you can get at it. You will need this wire to hook up an amp.

Upgrade the alt, as said. The stock alt will work, but your dash lights and headlights will dim on bass drops at idle when you get an amp hooked up (mine actually killed the engine once before I upgraded the alt :eek: )

I wouldn't worry about dual batteries unless you do a lot of tailgate parties and your truck is the entertainment. Two batteries cannot give up their energy any faster than one can (in reference to power draw from the amp for....again...bass) Just make sure your current battery is up to snuff.

When you install the amp, run a dedicated 4-8 Ga power wire (depending on size of amp) directly from the battery Positive terminal, and put an inline fuse in this power wire as close to the battery as you can.

Solder & shrink wrap all of your connections. Electrical tape will make a sticky mess out of the wires in about 2 months.

-SM
 
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