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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All, my 86 RC's engine has either blown a head gasket or cracked a manifold, block or head! Has lots of puffy condensation type blue/grey smoke all the time when running. :\'( This happened yesterday, when I started the beast at the NAPA parts store!!! (maybe something going on here?)

I don't want to invest much more in that engine overall (has over 250,000 miles on it and has never been opened), other than reworking my existing heads focusing on a valve job new valves, springs, keepers with a 3 way grind / seating. Shaving the head to be sure not warped, and that is it for the top end.

As for the lower end, just change out the lifters, push rods and put in a new double roller timing chain. Clean and inspect the manifold for cracks. Put heads, manifolds all back with new blots and studs all around. I have thought about a cam, but really don't want to risk a new came with out changing the cam bearings. I don't want to have to pull that block just yet or go that far inside. I think the bottom end is OK, unless I find a crack in the block! And, I still have the new motor mounts to put on (that will be easier now), and the new fuel pump to put on, and to fix the slow leak in the power stearing pump. Just maybe will splurge and change distributor to match the orange ignition module, haven't decided on that yet!

I'm not wanting to start the engine again, with out pulling my plugs and seeing which cylinder is getting wet. When I arrived home yesterday I parked in the driveway, and changed oil on my car. When I went to start the RC and move it later, is when i noticed the smoke the most. And when starting, it was a real draging on the first rotation of the starter then it did what I thought was a kind of hydro lock thing going on, and the engine didn't even move for a moment then started right up all on the same keystroke. I guess one of the cylinders took just prior to it stopping. I didn't like that, not good, may have bent a rod! :-\

Since this 86 has all the polution crap still on it and I hate it. I know all of it just does not work, and I really want to take it all off. Just don't dare.

I want to keep this RC for a long time, and some day I know the clean air inspections are going to setup shop in my town and want to stuff things into my tailpipe. :-X I know the local state inspector only does a visual inspection on the crap and it wouldn't pass state inspection with out all that stuff hanging around. But, please don't ask me to repair all that old crap! As time goes on most of that stuff and the replacement parts will become totally obsolete and no longer avalible for this model year, this is the plan for all those "Environmentalists" and "Old Car Killers" anyway, when you can't keep the air clean CRUSH IT mentality!

Long range plan is to find a doner 1998, or newer 360 Magnum MPFI engine and wiring. That is what I really want to do for my old RC, would be emissions compliant too.

While I'm rounding up some scratch for parts and for working over the heads, whats the word on gaskets, I was thinking of going "Fel-pro" all around? Any other suggestions?

I know that I don' t want to do a total rebuild on the engine at all, and money is a factor, but that is exactly it, money is a factor, and I don't want to be doing this a second time because I used a sub-standard or unknown product that I could have spent maybe a couple of more bucks on it the first time around and in the long run saves me money! This is an old engine, and I know that I may have to change plans totally in the middle of things, might even have to find that doner sooner then I want!

And what is wrong with removing the "power heat valve" under that right exhaust manifold? I don't think mine is not working, but can't really see how that is adding much to a bunch of emissions stuff that don't work, an its definitely not "helping" my engine make anymore power in the long run? I don't think that the inspector guy can see it either! Something has to go, it might as well be that! If it needs a pipe strecher to align the exhaust pipe, then I'll gut it out and put back just the spacer. Hows that sound?

Does any of the engine builders, or anyone else that has gone through all of this, have any other suggestions and things to keep an eye out for??
 
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Sounds like a blown head gasket to me. If money is your main concern right now, find a donor engine and drop it in. with 250,000 miles on it, it isn't worth putting money into it without a major rebuild. drop a 318 or 360 in, and take your time rebuilding the original. As far as the emission stuff, junk it all, if the state then requires stiffer inspections, take it to the west side of the state for inspection, and find ******* garage and throw him an additional $20 and you'll be legal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thats proly not to bad an idea, what is a going price on a used but not abused (at least lower milage, no one knows what abuse an engine has gone through now a days) engine going for now adays? I noticed your sign in your windshield 78TrailDuster, its a shame you don't have a 360 an want to part it out?
 
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Ram said:
Has anyone ever heard of this product or have used it?
I wouldn't use it, Sounds like a temporary fix you'd use to unload a car onto some unsuspecting sucker. What can I say I'm a very sceptical person.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I know, this stuff sounds hokie to me too, not going to sell though. Just need to get through the winter and till I find a suitable doner, hopefully a totalled rear ended 1998 or so, Ram P/U.

Those folks at SteelSeal never sent me a response back to my e-mails, so I found a similar product at Napa called: K&W Permanent Matallic Block Seal, its a 16oz. can of sealer made by CRC for around $6. It claims to permanently seals blocks, heads, gaskets, radiators and cooling passages.

That last one "cooling passages" has me wondering what it will do to the radiator, after all its full of cooling passages and it does need cooling!

If its not going to work, I'm not breaking the bank, but it will elevate my agravation level another notch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Went and finally cleaned out my cooling system and used that K&W block seal by CRC. Follow link:

http://www.crcindustries.com/gallery.asp?action=viewimage&categoryid=41&text=&imageid=1314&box=&shownew=

I didn't have any oil mixed into the water, or water mixed into the oil. And as I have said in my earlier post that money is one of my main concern's. This K&W product is working as of today. If all else I'm hopping to at least get through the winter with it. I don't really feel that I want to go 4 wheeling or stump pullin or even pulling folks out of ditch's any time soon until I have some more assurance that the treatment is going to hang in their! I'm remaining optimistic and for this stuff keeping me running longer than I need it too.
 
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Hope it works for you, since you don't have oil & water mixing it may not be too bad, and this may hold up pretty good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
78TrailDuster said:
Hope it works for you, since you don't have oil & water mixing it may not be too bad, and this may hold up pretty good.
Thanks, I sure am hoping so! It was a pretty bad leak into the nr 5 cylinder and when I took the plugs all out and cranked the engine over before starting the treatment. It was a gusher, I was really skepticle that it could work with that much a broken gasket!!! When if was running it made enough smoke to fill the front yard. Will let everyone know if it hangs in their! Wish me luck ;D
Ram
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well I knew it was just a matter of time, the head gasket sealer has blown out coming home from work this afternoon. Time to find a doner 360, sure wish that I had the money for the new Mopar Performance 5.7L Hemi crate engine (PN: 4510593). That would be sweet to have 360 hp and 360 lb-ft of torque and fuel injection. Does any one know when they well become available from Dodge?
 
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I don't know when they will be available from MP, but you can find them in swap meets. I saw several at the Daytona show last weekend. They were asking $6500 - $7500 for complete set-ups Engine Trans. computers & wiring. The Spring show in Carlilse is coming up in a couple weeks, should be able to find one there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
78TrailDuster said:
I don't know when they will be available from MP, but you can find them in swap meets. I saw several at the Daytona show last weekend. They were asking $6500 - $7500 for complete set-ups Engine Trans. computers & wiring. The Spring show in Carlilse is coming up in a couple weeks, should be able to find one there.
I have been asking around and have not even found out a price for the new MP Hemi yet. That is just a wee bit to high for me until after October. Not to mention that I can't get away from my work to make the Spring show either. Till then, I will just have to settle for a used/running 360 from any year doner. Maybe from a jy or some one with a truck or van being parted out until I can find what I was hoping for a doner 1998 Magum 360 MPI, from a with a standard transmission, that I can strip all the wiring, computer and dash to do a total upgrade to my RC.
 
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I've been considering the same thing for my 66 Barracuda, but at the cost of all those sensors I'm shying away from that right now. I just had to replace the O2 sensors on my Chevy truck. $70 ea. and there are three of them. I'll keep my eye's open for a good motor, I'm going to be up in Winchester, Va in a couple of weeks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
78TrailDuster said:
I've been considering the same thing for my 66 Barracuda, but at the cost of all those sensors I'm shying away from that right now.
I know the cost of those little things are not getting any less. I just keep on thinking about the alternative, a hole lot less vacuum lines, vacuum switches, and emissions pump with all of that crap to fiddle with. I think you also get a cleaner look to the engine from not having all the stupid vacuum lines hiding everything and the emissions pump, egr and its hoses messing up the view.

Its the cost of those sensors I think is the lessor of the two evils.

Your 66 Cuda might have some of that mess, I know the 86 RC of mine has so much of that stuff, its just plane silly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Have tried another new product to fix the blown head-gasket. Stuff called "BlueDevil" sold by the quart for $60.00. Was a whole lot easier to install. Just remove the thermostat, flush the coolant system, add your mix of anti-freeze and water, leaving enough room for the "BlueDevil". Run cold engine, with cap off radiator, and "slowley" pour "BlueDevil" into radiator. Replace cap and run for 40 minutes at idle or until leak is fixed. (you'll stop smelling that sick sweet anti-freeze smell when leak is fixed, and the steam looking exhaust will stop) After that, test drive. After test drive re-install "new" themostat and top off coolant.

This stuff has worked as it states on the can so far. Will keep an eye on it and see if it lasts as long as that $12.00 stuff I used last time.
 
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