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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone see a major problem with drilling some 2" holes in the core support on either side of the radiator to increase airflow into the engine compartment to help cut down on underhood heat ???

I was thinking if I cut like 4 or 5 2" diam holes in the core support on either side of the radiator, it would greatly increase the airflow into the engine compartment, as our trucks have a small radiator opening and a very large flat surface between the headlights.

I don't think it would significantly reduce the strength of the core support either, as the point I am thinking of doing this is just to eiher side of the radiator, and there is a c channel mounted there. The holes would be in the 'c' of the channel. Not so much worried about aerodynamic improvements, but more getting rid of some underhood heat.

Has anyone ever tried this ??
 

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I would look into getting the air OUT from under the hood first. It comes in through the radiator and under the bumper, then has no place to go.
I took the weatherstripping off the top of the firewall on my dodge and my cavalier, made enough of a difference to keep the cavi from overheating, didn't notice a temp difference on my RC, but working under the hood got a LOT cooler after that!!
One thing you might want to do is keep the center of the weatherstripping over the engine tho, might be nice to keep the dist dry! lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, I'm working on the idea that what gets in HAS to come out.

The holes I am considering drilling would allow air to come in right into the header area, and then out the fenderwells or under the body. Currently I do not have the fender well splash guards, so flow will be better.

The aluminum heads & intake are throwing off a bunch of heat, and I want to get rid of it.
 

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One thing I've heard of doing is using a spacer or washers to raise the rear of the hood up like 1/2 inch, which supposedly will suck some of the heated air out. But I think it'd work like cowl induction and accually blow air in.
Best idea would be drill those holes, then put big viper style vents on the sides to suck all the hot air out. heh
 

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One member, ddart (haven't seen him online lately) had 4 or 5, 2" holes in his fenders, kind of above, and to the rear of the wheel wells (I think near where the logo badges go). I didn't talk to him about them, and I don't know his reasoning for them, but I assume they are to let heat out. Just a thought. ;)
 

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At our recent trip to this years Ram Jam location I was overheating (have been for the last few trips) so I took the hood off. After doing that I never overheated again. So I agree with getting the heat out rather then getting air in.
 

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Just my 2 cents, but if you don't have a place for the air to get out of, all you'll be doing is having the incoming air push against high pressure that is built up under the hood, so you probably won't have much air flow to cool it off.
 

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Without cutting hole have you considered Jet-Hot? I have a similar situation here in the Arizona heat. I also want to reduce my under hood temperatures. I have thought about cutting holes or fabricating a "lip" from under the hood of the RC to direct air up in the engine compartment. Then a friend showed me an article from car craft talking about Jet-Hot coated headers. It is supposed to reduce header temperatures by over 50%. That would go along way for reducing the temp. The engine and the heads produce a lot of heat, but it's all directed towards the exhaust. It says intake manifolds and exhaust pipes can be coated. I don't know about cylinder heads. I would imagine coated valve covers may help a little. I was just thinking that if I do drill holes, that the air would only hit certain spots not really circulating enough. It cost more than drilling holes so I am still saving. Let us know what you do and how it works out.
Streak-O-Lean

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/80038/
 

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RamChargerMan,
You're on to something here... I had a 73 Z28 that I did the exact same thing to, (2" holes in the core support), and damn if it didn't drop the the operating temperature, as I remember about 15-20 degrees. As a matter of fact, I'm gonnal find my 2" saw and put about 8-10 "vent" holes in my core suport behind the grill opening. Hell, the engine compartment insn't sealed up air tight, (the air coming in will find its way out),but you're right, that cool air on the headers has got to make an improvement.

I'll let you know how much of a difference it makes on my '90 RC. I'm going to install a Pro Comp 2 5/8" mechanical water temp. gauge in the next couple of days, tow my boat with the truck, and then put the vent holes in just to see how much difference it really makes. I post a thread on this board with the results. If nothing else, we lightenend the load a little..lol!!

Dave
 

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Wouldn't louvers do the job on the hood. I have also seen guys attach electrical fans to the underside of the hood to help expell the heat. You could at the least get some wrap and wrap up your headers with it. That should help with the heat.
 

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Try what I did... Add a hood scoop. At first I just added it to help with cooling, then I made it fully functional by changing air cleaners to a 10" diameter (this requires taking off some emissions controls, but if you are like me they are gone the week you got your truck). then stack filters or get a spacer for the carb and you have moving air to the engine and one big vent!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well, the airflow out issue is a non-issue on my truck. 3" body lift, and no splash guards at all.

I have looked at the header coatings, but around here, it's over 250 bucks to get it done.

Hood louvers would work, but
1) they are expensive and you can't do them well yourself
2) they would let rain in when you aren't driving

header wrap would help, but
1) it voids the warranty on almost all headers
2) The thought of header wrap on something that sees mud/water scares me, since the wrap will absorb it and hold it where the headers can rust

If I cut the holes where I am planning/thinking of cutting them, the air flow thru them will wash over the headers and out the wheelwells or under the body.

I'm still not sure if I am gonna do it, but right now, I'm leaning towards cutting 3 holes per side, and if that helps, maybe going to 5 per side. If it doesn't help, it will be easy enough to tack weld a plate on to cover up the holes.

Emissions controls...what are you talking about ??

I'll let yall know the results if I do tho.
 

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TheRamChargerMan said:
Well, the airflow out issue is a non-issue on my truck. 3" body lift, and no splash guards at all.
Unless you removed the inner fenders the heat will rise and become trapped under the hood

Hood louvers would work, but
1) they are expensive and you can't do them well yourself
2) they would let rain in when you aren't driving
Louver cutting tools are around and with practice, anyone can cut louvers straight enough.

If you offset the louvers to the sides of the hood, rain will not matter so long as nothing important becomes wet

header wrap would help, but
1) it voids the warranty on almost all headers
2) The thought of header wrap on something that sees mud/water scares me, since the wrap will absorb it and hold it where the headers can rust
I have thought that too and the stuff looks terrible when it disintergrates

Ed
 

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Try www.nagca.com/nagca.htm If not directed to "Hood Vents" directly then click on "Tech" and then "Upgrades and Repairs".
Mike
 

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Those hood vents are from an early to mid 90's Grand Prix GTP. I know because I bought a pair at the Pontiac dealer to put on my Mustang Big Block project car.

They cost me less that $20 back in '97. THey came with the inner and outer parts to do a complete install. Check around, you can probly find the later ones as well for a small price.

 

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Couldn't you cut some holes in the side of your fenders and put a louver cover over it? That should allow air to escape somewhat.

My brother and I were looking into using fuel access doors on the hood to aid in engine cooling. Just cut a square hole in the hood and install a fuel door. It can secure using a simple locking mechanism or the spring loaded deal on the door.

You could put a small gasket around the hole to keep the rain out when you're not using it to cool your rig.

I got that idea when I looked at an old Landcruiser with a similar setup on the fender.

The benefit is that the hot air will rise and leave via the top of the hood. ;)
 
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