[Andrew K]

I now have a D60 rear axle in my '83 RC, and every time I take it out in the mud the bolts in the u-joint straps snap off the first time I get on it. Can I drill out the holes and use u-blolts? I have always heard not to but I can't think of any problems this would cause, but I am sure I am overlooking something, does anyone know the answer? Also I am using a full-time 3/4 ton D44 in the front right now, and I have a 3/4 ton 44 w/ lockouts sitting at the shop, but the gears are out of it. I am in the process of putting in axle joints right now and was thinking that this would be a good time to switch to lockouts and was wondering what all I would have to switch out. I guess what I need to know what I need to know is do I need to put the new axle joints in the full-time axles or will I need to switch the outer stub shaft?

Thanks

 

[BrianT]

dude re name this thread cuz this more tech than help . i am moiving it over to the tech board

 

[Trailduster79]

You can buy new yokes that are set up for the u-bolts in the rear. It is a very good upgrade

As for the part time to full time swap, you will need to change outer knuckles, stub shafts, spindles, hubs.

 

[rockmup]

If you are blowing the straps out, chances are the u-joint is binding on one end or the other.
Clean everything off and look real close you will see where it is hitting.
Use a die grinder and clearance the yokes out just enough so they do not hit.
If it is not hitting then I'd say your yoke is spread. $65.00 and you can get a brand new one with the u-bolts

 

[mopar-man 3000]

this may or my not help but i just found this out myself and its make sence
make sure that the u-joints are in a straight line i normally just set the shaft on the ground to check and see

 

[Andrew K]

I also thought that the yoke had spread but, I just put a different one on before I took it out last weekend. I assume that they could both be spread, they have both been between a 440 and 35" Boggers. The u-joint was binding on the stock yoke, which would explain things, but with this last yoke I put on (width of a 1350 but with smaller caps) there is all kinds of room and no evidence of binding. I have the u-joints in a stright line, but I think the angles are different at the t-case and the rear end, would this cause the straps to go? Also the yoke that I put on there came off of a 9 1/4 (I think, stock '83), and it took alot of persuation to get it on. But the stock one off the D60 fit on the 9 1/4 perfect, maybe the splines were just mared a little on the yoke, or do they have different spline patterns? I would just order a new yoke w/ u-bolts, but I am afraid that I have messed up the splines on the pinion putting on this last yoke, so that is why I am looking for other alternatives

 

[Evildriver-3]

It may not bind when on the jack, get 2 jack stands set the stands under the frame put the jack under the rear put the truck in nuetral, spin the rear, then let the jack down a little, spin the rear, let the jack down some more, spin the rear , eventually you will see where it binds, then everytime you are offroad you will know when you are hurting the straps and know soon very soon you will need to get under there and replace straps, or you can break down lose the cheap outlook and get a 1410 or 1450 yoke and a new shaft

 

[Andrew K]

I have a very large drive shaft in it now (about 4-5") that holds a 1350, and I think that would be big enough if I could get an end to weld on it that would hold a 1410. Is there anyone out there that sells the ends, or is this a common item at a driveline or machine shop?

 

[Evildriver-3]

Any driveshaft shop should be able to do it, you will also need a yoke, but do the test 1st to see that is does have bind, most likely it does, if you don't have a dshaft shop you can trust to do it see the service review board and see K&M Driveline

 

[Andrew K]

I have not been able to do the test yet, I am in the middle of swaping out the knuckles, ect. in the front end to get lockout hubs, but when I get it put back together I will start on the rear end. I don't have a driveshaft shop very close, but I do have a good machine shop that I have been taking my driveshafts to, to get them shortened. Maybe they can order what I need. I called K&M Driveline a few weeks ago when I needed a yoke for my transfer case, and they said that they would call me back with a price and I have yet to hear from them, but I did find a nice d-shaft shop out in Arizona, I don't remember the name, right now, but they were very helpful and had the part to me a few days later!!