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could you post any pictures iof this carb setup you've made?
 

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The TA is a spreadbore, I have the 770 on my HP 440 in the RC. Using the orange cam and #42 nozzle there are no problems. I plan to try a #50 nozzle because on a cold start it just doesn't get enough gas to allow the fast idle to take over. I believe Andy was referring to nozzles, not pumps when he listed several numbers. The pumps are either 30 or 50cc as someone else mentioned. The part I don't get is using a spacer. The higher your carb sits, the worse your low end torque and lauch ability. Spacers are generally used on light cars and especially drag racing engines where you have mucho rpm. Also, the electric choke (I know you fixed it) is mechanically closed by the spring when you step on the throttle. 12 volts are then required to heat the spring and open the choke - along with vacuum.

I also tried a 670 SA on a 400, it just wasn't enough carb so I put a regular 750 on it. You can not go by Holley's Horsepower estimation when purchasing a carb. If you have a big block, go to the next size carb that they advertise in the higher horsepower rating. It's best to just call the tech guys at Holley and tell them what you are doing.

Anyone interested in buying my 670 SA? I'll take $275 for it and I have all the gizmoes you need to go to dual feed. I do not recommend this carb for a big block... Soon to be on ebay.
 

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Ramjet said:
The part I don't get is using a spacer. The higher your carb sits, the worse your low end torque and lauch ability. Spacers are generally used on light cars and especially drag racing engines where you have mucho rpm.
Depends on the type of spacer, I`ll agree that an open will increase plenum volume and move the power curve up in rpm`s but if your talking 4 hole, esp tapereds I disagree. I put on a tapered 4 hole to try and help fix a cold/damp weather fuel puddling problem I have been having (due in part to no exh heat in the heads/Magnums dont have em). I figured the 4 hole would increase intake velocity, hopefully enough to keep the fuel from puddling and lo and behold it worked :eek:. As a small side benefit it picked up a noticable amount of low end punch and it hasnt seemed to hurt it upstairs either, not that I scream the thing anyhow, so IMHO a tapered 4 hole can sometimes be a great benefit, esp for a primarily low rpm/truck setup.
 

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dont know if anybody is still reading this, but I did the whole edelbrock performer package on my .30 over rebuilt 360. I still have the stock heads and stock torque converter unfortunately... But anyway, the performer intake is a spread bore and the matching performer carb is square bore. The instructions stated NOT to use the spread-to-square spacer, so I didn't. I just mounted the carb direct to the intake. What do you recommend?
 

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If the carb bolted right up at all 4 corner`s I would`nt do anything, the Performer intake is probably made to use either spread or square bore carbs. You might want to post this on the technical board, it gets alot more traffic.
 

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Pointman51 said:
dont know if anybody is still reading this, but I did the whole edelbrock performer package on my .30 over rebuilt 360. I still have the stock heads and stock torque converter unfortunately... But anyway, the performer intake is a spread bore and the matching performer carb is square bore. The instructions stated NOT to use the spread-to-square spacer, so I didn't. I just mounted the carb direct to the intake. What do you recommend?
i know this is an old topic. but i have to chime in hopes you read it again. The instructions do not list the adapter as being needed for your application,but if you call them they tell you to use it? i went down that road and they(edelbrock)cant tell you why the instructions dont list it but they say you need it .
 
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