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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been getting a clicking noise that I can hear through the transfer case shifter.  The noise occurs only under load.  I put the truck up on jack stands, and am able to reproduce the noise during fast idle, transfer case locked, and brakes partly applied to provide a load.

I hear the sound coming from the double cardan joint of the front drive shaft, or that area of the transfer case, np203. If I remove the shaft, I remove the load so the sound probably won't occur.  The joint feels solid while manipulating it by hand. I'm waiting for a needle to be delivered so I can pump some grease in to the center ball of the joint.

I can't tell if it's coming from the joint or the transfer case. Any tips on isolating the source of the noise would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Steve
 

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the joints are what I'd call a maintenance item , like brakes you expect to have to replace them at some point .
If I suspected the 2 things you do , t case or joints I'd replace the joints and see what happens . They are often tight but brindled bearings or dry ones cause noise just before failure ....

IF by chance you LIFTED it ...............check the cv joints stop travel nubs , see if its binding on them ....
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
dodge82273 said:
the joints are what I'd call a maintenance item , like brakes you expect to have to replace them at some point .
If I suspected the 2 things you do , t case or joints I'd replace the joints and see what happens . They are often tight but brindled bearings or dry ones cause noise just before failure ....

IF by chance you LIFTED it ...............check the cv joints stop travel nubs , see if its binding on them ....
I did lift the truck. I don't feel binding when rotated by hand, or see what I think are the nubs you mention hitting anything.

I should clarify one thing, it doesn't matter if the transfer case is locked. Also the noise started after I was a little heavy on the throttle while crossing a deep rut in the road, I was testing my new suspension. I suspect the most likely cause is the CV joint. I rebuilt it many years ago. It's a pain in the butt. I'll try pumping more grease in the joints too see if that changes the sound.
 

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'79 Macho 360 Magnum, Comp 480 cam, Hughes springs, 650 Thunder AVS, Pertronix Flamethrower ignition
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If you lifted it fairly recently then i would retorque all nuts and bolts. Especially the U bolts as the axle can move slightly. I've heard similar clicks and noises after lifting trucks that have had a few miles on them. Usually re-torqing the fasteners will make the noises go away.
 

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I had a clicking noise when I locked my 93 F350 into 4X4. I took it into a shop I trusted and found it was the CV joint on the front driveline next to the T-Case needed to be rebuilt.
 

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AzTrailduster said:
I did lift the truck. I don't feel binding when rotated by hand, or see what I think are the nubs you mention hitting anything.

I should clarify one thing, it doesn't matter if the transfer case is locked. Also the noise started after I was a little heavy on the throttle while crossing a deep rut in the road, I was testing my new suspension. I suspect the most likely cause is the CV joint. I rebuilt it many years ago. It's a pain in the butt. I'll try pumping more grease in the joints too see if that changes the sound.
yep then change the joints and rebuild the cv ball socket....
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I put it back up on jack stands. Greased the front drive shaft.  And started listening to things again. Now I hear the noise coming from the transfer case, listening through a screwdriver.
Took it for a drive, and I mostly hear it between 15 and 20 mph. If I shift to 1st gear, I really hear it when I shift to 1st gear, loading the drivetrain, and the engine is quieter than when I'm accelerating.

I remember hearing this sound 20 years ago. I don't remember if that is why I rebuilt the driveshaft. I also have the original transfer case. I seperated it into three sections to make it easier to move. I can always rebuild it if needed. I'll start with the driveshaft.

 

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the most common to need servicing most often , easier to do , less expensive . good plan , new joints can't hurt .
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ordered the U joints and center ball kit.
 

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I have a '99 Durango. It was making a noise too. I was driving down the interstate one day and the T-case literally exploded. When I got home and took it out, it had literally ripped in half. It was an aluminum T-case with the all wheel drive option. I found another one at a picknpull for $80 on a 50% off holiday weekend. Still going strong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'm finally getting back to my drive line noise.

I took out my front driveshaft, and the clicking noise went away.

It looks like the little nubs at the CV joint are hitting on one side. Before I start grinding, I wanted to get input from the experts. It looks like the nubs are hard stops that protect the center ball and socket from over extending. If I grind for some clearance, I assume I will upset the balance of the shaft, so I will try to grind she same amount from each side.
Should I grind the nub, or the "H" center section where it hits the nub? I would rather grind the center section, I can replace that if I screw it up.

Also, should I grind around the ball and socket to increase the angle?
Thanks,
Steve

 

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Round em off. I did, worked great. Will find a pic later tonight.
 

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It angled as good as a spicer afterwards  ;D
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks guys. This will be a project for next weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Started rebuilding my front driveshaft. I always seem to get the wrong u joints.
My front joint attaching to the Dana 44, turns out to be a 315Gx369 combination joint, I ordered the Moog 319. According to Moog, that joint is used on Dodge 4x4s 87-97.

When I order based on year/make/model, I get the wrong joint.

My Chrysler shows mopar# 3004900, but, I can't find the measurements of that joint to confirm fit.

Anyone else have this problem? Did someone install a nonstandard driveshaft in the past? Or are the parts catalogue wrong?
 

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I would call Tom woods drive shaft or Dennys drive shafts. They should be able to help find the right u joint. They just need the cup measurements and distance between stops and can tell you which one it is.

I was able to get a complete custom Tom woods for like 275ish delivered. Very nice peice.



 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I have a joint on the way, hopefully it is correct. If I need a new shaft some day, I will order from Tom Woods.

I put the shaft back together, and reused my old front joint, it was still good. I will change it later.

I discovered that 20 years ago I put my double cardan center piece in backwards. With it in backwards movement in one direction was limited. When I flipped it around, it moves freely in all directions. I did some grinding, may have to do more later if needed.

No more clicking noise, and I think some of my vibrations have improved.

 

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Awesome. Sounds like that should work.

I saw you live in apache junction. I'm in Gilbert. There's a guy on elsworth in apache junction that has a bunch of ramcharger and other Mopars. My son stopped by his house today to talked to him. I guess he has a pretty good collection.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Interesting. I have not driven by or noticed his collection. I'm east of AJ by the mountain, and have not driven in that area in a while.
 
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