You'll need the stud and flat linkage with the slot, that came on your original carb. Then you might be able to readjust your throttle pressure.. You'll have to try it out and see.
tranny kick down
how do i hook my tranny kick down to my holley 4150?? i bought it from a kid and i didnt get any other brackets and it came off a cheby
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
yeah i got my old carb how to i ajust my throttle pressure and how does it hook up?? i dont look like a strait bolt on
Have you got a Dodge manual with a 318 2 barrel carb/auto trans.?? It could help you more than I could explain. It will have a four barrel install picture at least. So you'll get the idea. It will also have the throttle pressure adjustment in it. It is the adjustment of the so called (kick down) or passing gear. They operate off of throttle pressure. Get a Haynes manual at the parts house. About $11.00 for the book.......
Go to a machine shop and ask an engine builder. Preferably one who has raced Mopar in the past, those guys used to love those Holley carbs
Go to a machine shop and ask an engine builder. Preferably one who has raced Mopar in the past, those guys used to love those Holley carbs
I've done this on my '77 and it was a matter of extending the sloted flat piece of the kickdown linkage. I can't look at it right now but I recall it needed to be 3 - 4 inches longer. Mount your new carb and then based on the old setup measure how much longer the piece needs to be. Head on down to Home Depot and pick up a piece of flat bar about the same size. You can make a whole new piece or add on to the non-slotted end (weld it or use screws).
for a holley aftermarket carb you need a chrysler kick down linkage made by holley. its about 11 bucks. i'll find the part number for you but dont' have it right in front of me. but you can find it in jegs and summit. You really need it to get your throttle linkage ratio right or you will either wear your shaft out fast or your throttle wont' open all the way.
i used the lokar braided stainless kickdown cable for the tf 727 on mine, looks real sharp and matches the fuel line and throttle cable(also lokar)
The part you need is Holley part number 20-7 and it cost 6.99 from Jeg's. This allows you to use the chrysler stud on the throttle shaft and corrects the throttle opening ratio. Then you mount the kick down linkage onto the factory stud the same way as with the old carb.
the last member is correct! you will need that adapter to get the geometry right! you will have to still have to either make a new kickdown lever (cause the stock one wont be long enough) or make yourself an adapter to make your stock one work. Let me know if interested and i will email you a pic of how i did it with a 75cent bracket from walmart, 2 bolts and 2 nuts. 
hey can i get that pic?? and whats jegs part number for that?
There is lokar kick down on e-bay right now too man for 50 bucks . pretty good price and it's brandnew . I would buy it if ihad a use for it
bt83rc
bt83rc
The correct kick down lever from holley is the best way to go, but it can be made to work otherwise. On one of my trucks, the previous owner modified the linkage to work the way he wanted it to when he went from a 2 bbl to a 4 bbl, and it works fine.
To adjust the kickdown lever, make sure the engine/trans is warmed up. Make sure the carb is adjusted for the correct idle. make sure that the carb end of the linkage is not attahced to the carb, but it laying in such a way as to be free to move. The kickdown lever should have a spring on it that seats against a seat on the lever and the lock down thingy (that square thing the bolt goes thru that locks it on the lever. With the engine running and the trans in park, hold the kickdown lever on the trans in the forward most position and tighten the lock down thingy. Now go up and connect the kickdown linkage to the carb. Make sure it does not mpve the lever at the trans. If it does, then you need to shorten the slotted part of the kickdown linkage. Turn the engine off. Make sure the carb will go to wide open throttle without binding the kickdown lever at the trans against the stop. If it does, the you need to re-adjust the kickdown lever at the trans. Keep doing this until the lever on the trans is all the way forward against the spring while running, and the lever is not bound up at ful throttle.
It is a royal pain in the butt, but this is the only way to get it correct. You may get lucky and guess and have it work, but when you adjust it this way, the trans will seem like a new trans the way it shifts. The spring on the linkage should not be fully compressed (at the trans).
You want the lever on the trans to be all the way forward and the slot on the linkage at the carb should not be all the way up against the stop/post on the carb. You want to carb to be able to move slightly before it pushes the trans lever back. How much you want the carb to move depends on you, and how your trans is built.
I adjusted mine this way, and it shifts nice and firm during normal driving, but when you get on it, it shifts from hard to chirping the tires...depending on gear and weight of the right foot.
I also have much better downshifting from the trans now. I did make some internal adjustments to mine, which is part of why it shifts as positively as it does both up and down, but it has little to do with adjusting the kickdown linkage.
To adjust the kickdown lever, make sure the engine/trans is warmed up. Make sure the carb is adjusted for the correct idle. make sure that the carb end of the linkage is not attahced to the carb, but it laying in such a way as to be free to move. The kickdown lever should have a spring on it that seats against a seat on the lever and the lock down thingy (that square thing the bolt goes thru that locks it on the lever. With the engine running and the trans in park, hold the kickdown lever on the trans in the forward most position and tighten the lock down thingy. Now go up and connect the kickdown linkage to the carb. Make sure it does not mpve the lever at the trans. If it does, then you need to shorten the slotted part of the kickdown linkage. Turn the engine off. Make sure the carb will go to wide open throttle without binding the kickdown lever at the trans against the stop. If it does, the you need to re-adjust the kickdown lever at the trans. Keep doing this until the lever on the trans is all the way forward against the spring while running, and the lever is not bound up at ful throttle.
It is a royal pain in the butt, but this is the only way to get it correct. You may get lucky and guess and have it work, but when you adjust it this way, the trans will seem like a new trans the way it shifts. The spring on the linkage should not be fully compressed (at the trans).
You want the lever on the trans to be all the way forward and the slot on the linkage at the carb should not be all the way up against the stop/post on the carb. You want to carb to be able to move slightly before it pushes the trans lever back. How much you want the carb to move depends on you, and how your trans is built.
I adjusted mine this way, and it shifts nice and firm during normal driving, but when you get on it, it shifts from hard to chirping the tires...depending on gear and weight of the right foot.
I also have much better downshifting from the trans now. I did make some internal adjustments to mine, which is part of why it shifts as positively as it does both up and down, but it has little to do with adjusting the kickdown linkage.
were does the spring hookup? my friend took it off and now he cant rememeber and that lokar kick down what parts do i need to buy or use off my old one to make it work? how do pu my stock kickdown shaft in to my holley? its just a little to small can i just drill out the hole?
the spring goes down at the trans lever. There should be a raised stop on the kickdown rod, and the spring is supposed to be between that stop and the lock bolt thingy.
Which hole are you talking about drilling out
The rod should have a slot that the post on the carb rides in that is about 3" long.
To put yer stock kickdown linkage on yer holley, you need the chrysler adapter mentioned before.
If you get the lokar stuff, it should have all the junk you need. It is nothing more than a tv cable from a chevy tho, with a fancy outside cover, and you have to have everything adjusted correctly before you put it on, cuz you have to cut it to fit.
Which hole are you talking about drilling out
The rod should have a slot that the post on the carb rides in that is about 3" long.To put yer stock kickdown linkage on yer holley, you need the chrysler adapter mentioned before.
If you get the lokar stuff, it should have all the junk you need. It is nothing more than a tv cable from a chevy tho, with a fancy outside cover, and you have to have everything adjusted correctly before you put it on, cuz you have to cut it to fit.
will that adapter have a slot for the kickdown too? my stock kickdown doesnt fit in there
http://myweb.cableone.net/bigloser/mopar.htm
I finally had a chance to make some simple directions on how to adapt your old kickdown lever CHEAP. Hope it helps!
I finally had a chance to make some simple directions on how to adapt your old kickdown lever CHEAP. Hope it helps!
i cant see your pics, is it just me or are they messed up
I dont know, but I can see them just fine..BigOlDodge said:i cant see your pics, is it just me or are they messed up
check out my review on the product review board.
http://ramchargercentral.com/boards/index.php?board=93;action=display;threadid=18341
I just went thru this and found an easy way of doing it. It works for any aftermarket carb.
http://www.bouchillonperformance.com/
BPE3350
Torqueflite Kickdown Cable Kit
This patented kit will give you the proper throttle pressure your transmission requires, correct shift points, versatile installation combinations, and provide longevity to your Torqueflite.
Price: $109.97
BPE3395
Multi-Fit Accelerator Cable Mounting Bracket
Price: $26.50
They also have longer throttle cables (if you need one) for the dodge but you can get the same thing if you get one for 225 6 cyl motor.
http://ramchargercentral.com/boards/index.php?board=93;action=display;threadid=18341
I just went thru this and found an easy way of doing it. It works for any aftermarket carb.
http://www.bouchillonperformance.com/
BPE3350
Torqueflite Kickdown Cable Kit
This patented kit will give you the proper throttle pressure your transmission requires, correct shift points, versatile installation combinations, and provide longevity to your Torqueflite.
Price: $109.97
BPE3395
Multi-Fit Accelerator Cable Mounting Bracket
Price: $26.50
They also have longer throttle cables (if you need one) for the dodge but you can get the same thing if you get one for 225 6 cyl motor.
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
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