So i know that I am running rich now anyone got any clue how to adjust the carb??
rodney
rodney
TOO LEAN, TOO RICH?
O.k I rebuilt the holley and its running o.k. but I can't figure out what needs to be done I got dark black smoke coming out the tailpipes when I gun it or when I first start the truck is this too lean, too rich
And what's the best wayto adjust it for either one of the problems. Its a holley 4160 4bbl btw
T.I.A.
Rodney
And what's the best wayto adjust it for either one of the problems. Its a holley 4160 4bbl btwT.I.A.
Rodney
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
rodney, try adjusting the idle adjustment screws, I don't remember if turning them in richens it or leans it out, but experiment. you want the black smoke to go away.
Jake
Jake
In leans it out on my e-brock, should be the same. Start with them all the way in (clockwise) and give a turn and a half each the opposite direction and give her a shot.
Hope it helps
Tim
Hope it helps
Tim
Make sure your choke is opening. If it is staying closed that could be causing a rich mixture.
Do you have the anti-backfire valve installed? Very few Holleys come with them. If you have had any backfires at all since you got it back together, you may have blown the power valve. Holley says to adjust the idle air screws with a vacuum gage to get the highest reading at idle. Frankly, I haven't noticed much variation while watching the gage.
Pull some of your spark plugs and see how they look. If they are really carboned up, you probably have a blown power valve. If you rebuilt it, then you know that all you do is take the front bowl and block off to change it. Make sure you have the correct gasket for the valve. It might also pay to find out which valve is best for your application. I spent the $43 on a two stage power valve for my 1 ton since it's so heavy. Not recommended for HP use though.
If you aren't getting anywhere, email me and I will sit down with my Holley book and give you all the tips I can. Are you sure that your float levels are correct? Did you run this same carb on this engine before? What cfm?
Pull some of your spark plugs and see how they look. If they are really carboned up, you probably have a blown power valve. If you rebuilt it, then you know that all you do is take the front bowl and block off to change it. Make sure you have the correct gasket for the valve. It might also pay to find out which valve is best for your application. I spent the $43 on a two stage power valve for my 1 ton since it's so heavy. Not recommended for HP use though.
If you aren't getting anywhere, email me and I will sit down with my Holley book and give you all the tips I can. Are you sure that your float levels are correct? Did you run this same carb on this engine before? What cfm?
O.k. Here's the deal I toyed around with the carb and got the black smoke to stop. Now its giving me a little white smoke but its still not right. The exhaust smells Strong. I hope that doesn't sound wierd. I know exhaust smells but this smells like too much fuel. when It was giving me the black smoke it was idling perfcet and running good just had the black smoke. Now the idling is rough but the smoke is a little bit white. I know that the powervalve isn't blown the float levels are both corrrect for the mains and the secondaries. its a 600cfm I think. No I know that it is a 600cfm its the 4106 w/ vacuum secondaries. This carb was on here when i got it. I wheeled it pretty hard three times and then used it as a makeshift ambulance to drive over 90mph to get my little one to the hospital when she got the carbon monoxide. Since the speed demon session the carb was off so I rebuilt it with a trick kit from holley and that is where we are now. It is better since the rebuild however and I hope it gets right when i toy with it some more. I am new to the holley 4bbl and have to learnto fix it anyway.
thanks for the help, And RamJet I'll take you up on that offer to help if I need it
rodney
thanks for the help, And RamJet I'll take you up on that offer to help if I need it
rodney
uh oh.... the white smoke can mean two things: water or oil in the combustion chamber. check to see if you have water in the oil or vice versa. you may also have kinda done in the valves or guides when you were running it so fast.
Jake
Jake
You may have just fouled the plugs. They are the best indicator of how your carb is working. Though Jake's advice should be acted on also, you might see milky yellow stuff on your dipstick or have slimey coolant. Seriously, pull all your plugs and record which ones (if any) are oil or gas soaked. Smell them, sometimes they have both oil and gas.
You may have to invest in some tools like - vacuum gauge, compression tester etc. If your plugs are old, just replace them. If new, clean and dry really good and let us know what they looked like. Low vacuum will cause carb problems, but if you have white smoke, something else is going on. That's where the compression test comes in. The best advice on carbs is to get a book on them, and study until you understand how they work. In the meantime you have of bunch of eager Mopar nuts to help. Hang in there...
You may have to invest in some tools like - vacuum gauge, compression tester etc. If your plugs are old, just replace them. If new, clean and dry really good and let us know what they looked like. Low vacuum will cause carb problems, but if you have white smoke, something else is going on. That's where the compression test comes in. The best advice on carbs is to get a book on them, and study until you understand how they work. In the meantime you have of bunch of eager Mopar nuts to help. Hang in there...
I have a vac and compression tester will pull the plugs tomorrow and there is no film or milkiness to the oil. the white smoke isnt bad just not normal.
Thanks Ya'll
Rodney
Thanks Ya'll
Rodney
id say that white smoke is form it being to rich R-man
Yep, fouled plugs (the rough running) would result in unburnt mixture, which would give a faint whitish smoke and strong gasoline smell.
1. Screw the idle mixture screws all the way in, gently...
2. Back both out One and one half turns... that's close enough.
3. Flip the linkage interlock, and block the choke butterfly wide open...
What kind of choke does it have anyways...
4. With the throttle linkage all the way closed, look down in the primaries and secondaries with a flashlight to see if the throttle plates are actually closed.
5. While you're checking linkage, with the throttles closed, check the accelerator pump actuator to make certain that there is a slight (.010 or so for now, I don't remember the exact spec) air gap between it and the accelerator pump lever. If it is in constant contact, it can be adding extra fuel.
1. Screw the idle mixture screws all the way in, gently...
2. Back both out One and one half turns... that's close enough.
3. Flip the linkage interlock, and block the choke butterfly wide open...
What kind of choke does it have anyways...
4. With the throttle linkage all the way closed, look down in the primaries and secondaries with a flashlight to see if the throttle plates are actually closed.
5. While you're checking linkage, with the throttles closed, check the accelerator pump actuator to make certain that there is a slight (.010 or so for now, I don't remember the exact spec) air gap between it and the accelerator pump lever. If it is in constant contact, it can be adding extra fuel.
I think I mat have a leak in the power valve. I definately have a vacuum leak at the very least. I turned the little screws all the way in and it did nothing to the motor rev's Such as bogging it down or speeding it up. could this be a leak at the power valve or is a vaccum leak?
rodney
rodney
Screwing them in should pretty much kill the engine. Sounds like yer suckin air somewhere. Make sure your carb nuts are torqued evenly, about 200 in. lbs. and re-check everything that has to do with vacuum, then squirt WD-40 around the base of the carb to check for leaks. Idle should pick up when you squirt a leak. Using water to find a leak will blow steam out the exhaust or kill the engine if it's bad enough. You can use the same process around the intake manifold.
A blown power valve will cause it to run very rich, among other things. I couldn't believe how easy it was to blow the PV on one of my Holleys - doesn't take much of a backfire. Summit carries the anti-backfire valve for about $7, but you have to drill one fairly precision hole to install it. Sure would be nice if you had another carb to slap on there, just to make the comparison.
A blown power valve will cause it to run very rich, among other things. I couldn't believe how easy it was to blow the PV on one of my Holleys - doesn't take much of a backfire. Summit carries the anti-backfire valve for about $7, but you have to drill one fairly precision hole to install it. Sure would be nice if you had another carb to slap on there, just to make the comparison.
Actually ramjet I do have another carb. Its the exact same holley as the one I got on there now I picked it out of the boneyard for 25 dollars. I haven't had time to clean or rebuild it yet though. Perhaps today. About those anti-backfire things that summit sells I found something on Ebay that sounds similar its called a powervalve protection something or other theres like 30 of them in the lot that's for sale. It is made by mr gasket comes with a drill bit and everything. Do a search at ebay motors for Holley and you'll find them. I found out last night that the damn strong gas smell was coming from the pump. it is leaking all over the engine crossmember. I got it off and will replace it today.
I used my propane torch to go around the carb and intake and got no increase in rpm's I am beginning to get confused by this whole thing. I smell edelbrock 700cfm in the immediate future if things dont improve. Also the spark plugs look good. And its a vaccum secondary carb/
I used my propane torch to go around the carb and intake and got no increase in rpm's I am beginning to get confused by this whole thing. I smell edelbrock 700cfm in the immediate future if things dont improve. Also the spark plugs look good. And its a vaccum secondary carb/
nooooo.... you need to get your nose checked. you should be smelling Rochester QuadraJet.
Jake
Jake
Nicer still would be a known good carb to set on there. Holleys are the easiest to work on and have bunches of HP upgrades available. The 4165/4175 Spreadbore models were created as a HP replacement for the "lackluster" QJ. I have the new Truck Avenger 770 on my fresh 440, so far, it's awesome. These new carbs are configured for heavy vehicles and off-road use. They really aren't street legal though you could modify a street legal 4175 model to come close to the Avenger.
The spreadbore design is more efficient for trucks because of the small primaries and big secondaries. The Thermoquad had a spreadbore design too, that's why many RC's came with them on. I'm not sure you will ever be happy with a passenger car carb on your truck. But, the bottom line is, if a particular carb works good for you and you are comfortable with it - it must be the one.
The spreadbore design is more efficient for trucks because of the small primaries and big secondaries. The Thermoquad had a spreadbore design too, that's why many RC's came with them on. I'm not sure you will ever be happy with a passenger car carb on your truck. But, the bottom line is, if a particular carb works good for you and you are comfortable with it - it must be the one.
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