Far be it for me to cut across the grain

. But I have built quite a few engines without the priming method. In fact, in the late '70s and '80s, we never primed them. And have had some of those engines long enough to be the one who breaks it down for the next overbore to freshen it up. And I've never seen any difference in the bearings between engines that were primed, and engine that weren't. I've never had to break down an engine due to low oil pressure, cam rounding, or premature ring failure that I built.
The beginning of short bearing life happens long before you prime. It starts with improper clearancing, or failing to check clearances at all, installing unpolished cranks, failing to clean the shot media out of the oil passages (that's the big one!), etc. Harsh break-in methods, like exploring the new found power before it even has any miles on it.
There's nothing wrong with priming, and I know it doesn't hurt. I use my priming rod, when I can find it. But the vast majority of wear comes from improper maintenance after the mill is on the road. Infrequent oil changes, cheap oils, improper fuel mixtures, overloading, insisting on running a tranny cooler but never thinking about an engine oil cooler, etc.
With my engines, I run them for a time at about 2,000 rpms after initial start. Cams are splash lubed. Time it, set my mixture a touch on the fat side for the first few jaunts, then set the mixture on the money.then drive as normal around town for a few hundred miles for the rings to set. This last engine, my Wife actually broke it in. I held it for the first 200 miles, then turned it over to Her. And I fully expect it to be around for the long haul.
That's why, if I need a particular sized engine, and I don't have a rebuildable core, I'd rather buy an engine kit than a preassembled engine. It gives me the opportunity to check for their mistakes and over sights..................Los