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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I have an 89 rc with a 318. Late last night I had to take a trip to the hospital and pushed it a whole lot harder than I ever have. Now it's really not running good and stalling at idle, I slapped a timing light on it quick and it showed 10 degrees off at idle. Twisted the distributor a bit and made it home today. I'm thinking I may have stretched the timing chain it's original as far as I know and that's easily over 300 thousand miles. Are my suspicions likely correct or should I be checking somewhere else?
 

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Out of caution, I replace a stock chain before 70,000 miles. If any doubt after that, I had a 73 318 destroy the engine (the valves hit the pistons, and one broke and destroyed the piston) at around 75,000 miles. A new chain is cheap insurance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Out of caution, I replace a stock chain before 70,000 miles. If any doubt after that, I had a 73 318 destroy the engine (the valves hit the pistons, and one broke and destroyed the piston) at around 75,000 miles. A new chain is cheap insurance.
I get that a timing chain should be done before it let's loose I've seen that too, but defore I do it and think I'm all good to go then get pissed off cuz it wasn't the problem, I'd like to know if that's what my problem likely is or not.
 

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Some times you can pull the fuel pump, and then stick a finger inside, and get a feel for the slop in the chain. I never tried , but these small cameras that are available on e-bay and such, may work to get an idea. But otherwise it is a thing you do not know until you pull it all apart.
 

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Some times you can pull the fuel pump, and then stick a finger inside, and get a feel for the slop in the chain. I never tried , but these small cameras that are available on e-bay and such, may work to get an idea. But otherwise it is a thing you do not know until you pull it all apart.

George a 1989 with a motor mounted fuel pump

the best way to "check" a timing chain is by turning the crank [ 1 1/4 socket ] back an forth and watching the Dist rotor , you just wanna go stop to stop on the crank without the Dist rotor moving , NO more than a 1/2 inch rotation or 5 to 10 degrees if you do it with the motor on TDC , any more than that and the timing chain is shot
 

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George a 1989 with a motor mounted fuel pump
LOL, yes you got me again


the best way to "check" a timing chain is by turning the crank [ 1 1/4 socket ] back an forth and watching the Dist rotor , you just wanna go stop to stop on the crank without the Dist rotor moving , NO more than a 1/2 inch rotation or 5 to 10 degrees if you do it with the motor on TDC , any more than that and the timing chain is shot
I never got good results that way
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
OK, so I've got a new timing chain set (comp cams double row)and gaskets. I'm going to start on it tonight and see if I can figure out how to make it go together. I've only done it once before and that was many years ago, I've got a Haynes manual so hopefully I can make it all happen without any issues. Thanks everyone for your input.
 

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Dodge boys sells Factory service manuals for any year RC or truck. It is the bible that the dealers always used.
Jim
 

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yup the Haynes an Chiltons are useless compared to a FSM








 

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It's a straight forward job. Just make sure it's at top dead center on the compression stroke before you take it apart. The 4 piece oil pan gasket set can sometimes be tricky for the not so experienced but other than that, it's not major surgery.
 

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It's a straight forward job. Just make sure it's at top dead center on the compression stroke before you take it apart. The 4 piece oil pan gasket set can sometimes be tricky for the not so experienced but other than that, it's not major surgery.

NOT to contradict you but l,ve never taken the oil pan off to do a chain an gears on ANY motor made
 

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Pan doesn't have to come off, but I think he was referring to the headache potential with getting it back together & trying NOT to have a leak at the front of the pan.

Bucky
 

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It's a straight forward job. Just make sure it's at top dead center on the compression stroke before you take it apart. The 4 piece oil pan gasket set can sometimes be tricky for the not so experienced but other than that, it's not major surgery.
...on the #1 cylinder. ☺
 

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NOT to contradict you but l,ve never taken the oil pan off to do a chain an gears on ANY motor made
Yer right and I've done it many times before but most of them ended up leaking months or years down the road and the pain of what Bucky mentioned plus not to mention the ugly, with all the extra silly goop everywhere, and with cordless tools these days, I find it just as easy to drop the pan and put it back together nice and neat and clean. Plus it's a good opportunity to clean out the pan and inspect the bottom end. JMO
 

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If engine was over-revved you may have floated a valve and bent some pushrods. Seems likely you skipped a tooth on the chain, too.
 

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Hey guys, I have an 89 rc with a 318. Late last night I had to take a trip to the hospital and pushed it a whole lot harder than I ever have. Now it's really not running good and stalling at idle, I slapped a timing light on it quick and it showed 10 degrees off at idle. Twisted the distributor a bit and made it home today. I'm thinking I may have stretched the timing chain it's original as far as I know and that's easily over 300 thousand miles. Are my suspicions likely correct or should I be checking somewhere else?

If you replace the chain check the sprocket (both sides):

 
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