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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy all,

I'm about halfway through digging into my tilt column to tighten the bolts to stop it's wobble and I have a few questions.

1. Anyone know the size and thread count for the two pivot pins that need to be pulled?

I think I can rig up a socket/washer, bolt combo to get them out.

2. Do I have to remove the upper bearing race and bearing ring to get to the bolts?

Cheers

Chris
 

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I used a splined socket to tighten the bolts, there are three at the base. I did not remove any bearing races.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok, like an idiot, I just figured out the size bolt I need (#8-32) after I "remembered" I had a tap and die set!! Doh!

Dodge 8564, not sure what a splined socket is, thought the bolts were going to be torx head. How did you get to the bolts for tightening?

New question: Since I am digging into the column, does MOPAR sell a kit with new bearing rings and races? I noticed the bearing rings are plastic and going on 18 years old and can't be long of this world.

Cheers

Chris
 

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you do not hafta go that far into the column to fix the wobble like dodge8564 says / yes its torxs head and you can tighten them without pulling the pivit pins
 

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Not on a GM there Bogger! lol I also had 4 bolts, not 3 like a "normal" dodge! lol
 

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There are four bolts, and you need to remove the pivot pins to access all four. Once the pivot pins are out, pull the pivot assembly off of the steering shaft, the electrical wires should be long enough to allow this. Remove the torx head bolts one at a time apply blue locktight to the threads. I'm not sure of the tourque specs, just used a 1/4 drive ratchet and put pretty good pressure on it. I've never replaced any steering column bearings (yet), just always packed them with new grease. The dealer should be able to get them for you, maybe Chump has a part no. If Dodge can't get them try GM they both used the same Saginaw column.
 

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I had been told since they are almost identical inside, that there were only 3 screws, and that I didn't have to disassemble past the blinker switch. I ALSO was told that just re-tightening them should be fine for quite a while! Been less then 2 weeks, A couple hundred miles, and the 2 on the right side are ALREADY loose!! Not a problem, 1st tech info Bogger35 has given me that wasn't right on the $$! I wouldn't even have tried to fix it if he hadn't convinced me it wasn't difficult! (just a ROYAL pita! :)
 

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v737d said:
Ok, like an idiot, I just figured out the size bolt I need (#8-32) after I "remembered" I had a tap and die set!! Doh!

Dodge 8564, not sure what a splined socket is, thought the bolts were going to be torx head. How did you get to the bolts for tightening?

New question: Since I am digging into the column, does MOPAR sell a kit with new bearing rings and races? I noticed the bearing rings are plastic and going on 18 years old and can't be long of this world.

Cheers

Chris
I just pulled everything out of the column and tightened them. I did use thread lock (blue) so hopefully I don't have to do it again. As for a splined socket, it has splines instead of points. I think I used a 1/4" myself, but I can't remember. Yes, they are inverted torx head bolts. The real torx heads farther up towards the steering wheel are T30 I believe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeaaaaaa, I got it all back together! I ended up using a 2" #8-32 screw (with an assortment of increasing size washers) threaded through a 1/2" drive 1/2" socket to get the pivot pins out. Left side was pretty easy, the right side I ended up using my drill and going through two screws to get the pin out. All four bolts were finger loose! I found that a 6 point 1/4" drive 1/4" socket will work just fine to get those inverse torx head bolts out and in. I used a bit of blue threadlocker (if you know me you will what a big deal that is!) and put them back in.

The steering wheel puller I got from Oreileys (loaner tool for 48 hrs free!) also had the correct tool to depress the locking plate spring to get that lock ring out, made it very easy. I think I could do one in about 45 minutes now!

Cheers to all who helped with advice, I love this site!

Chris
 

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What tool was that? I had a bear of a time getting that spring compressed enough to put the ring back in.
 

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I still haven't gotten my lock plate back in, for the pivot pins, I just used whatever fit tight, (sheetmetal screw) and a claw hammer, once they loosen up they slide right out. A tip for anyone else? GET THE BIG SPRING OUT BEFORE YOU DO THE PIVOTS!!! :) Luckily, I thought it would pop and had my other hand pushing it back together! lol I will take pics as I do it next time when I use the threadlocker. There seems to be a few differences between all the different ones out there.
 
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What a coincidence I am writing a how to on the same subject. I just finished doing this to my 88 column. I used a 12 point 1/4" socket to tighten the inverted torx bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
For compressing the the spring plate (the first round metal bit under the steering wheel) The tool was an elongated "U" where both sides or arms were wide enough to press on oppasite sides of the plate leaving room to access the retaining ring. The center or bottom of the "U" had a hole with a threaded bolt that fit through it. The end of the bolt had a sleeve with threads on the inside which you screwed onto the threaded portion of the steering shaft you just exposed by removing the steering wheel. The other end of the bolt had a big washer and nut on it. You tightened the nut which pressed down on the plate exposing the locking ring and taking the tension off of it. Very slick and I wouldn't touch this job without one!

Umm if those bolts totally back out you will lose the ability to steer. The wheel wont come off in your hands but the "u joint" that allows it tilit will come unhinged and the whole thing will end up in you lap!

Cheers

Chris

P.S. It helps to have a FSM handy. I can email anyone who is interested a scan of the pages from my '87 FSM.
 
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