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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
out of water.

I have taken it apart to where the pictures below show. Â Beyond that are the four bolts that go through the support assembly into the plate lock.
Now , I am kind of stumped. Â I can look through the bottom of the support assembly and see two of bolts, and sure enough, they are loose, Â But I can't get to them and still can't see the two on top.
(Hope this is making some sense). Â Never done this before.
Do I have to take the shaft  and the bearing housing assembly out also ?
To take out the bearing housing it says to use a pin pivot remover. Never seen or heard of one of those. Â Is there something that will subsitute?
Also, the four bolts are torx and require a female torx socket. Â Does anyone have a clue what size they are? Â Another tool I don't have.
Man, this has got my head spinning.
And as long as I'm in there, are there some things I should replace?

Thanks,,,,any help/info will be greatly appreciated. Â

chuck. Â (hope I don't have to be logged in somewhere for these pics to stay up)



 
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Put the tilt lever back in and hold the steering shaft to raise or lower the column utnil you can get a socket on them. I used 1/4" 12 point socket to tighten with
 

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chazz said:
all right !! this place rocks.

gmule...you could get to all four of those bolts without removing the housing?
And out of all the sockets I own, I lost my 12 pt. 1/4" about a month ago.

Dodgeboys..I have gone up and down that "how-to" list and still cant find the how to. I'll try again.

Hey....THANKS guys.
later,
chuck
I could get 3 of the 4 the top right one I left alone
 

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pheonix827 just submited a HOWTO on this a week or so ago / it must not be posted yet
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I decided to get the pivot pin remover tool so I could get all four of the bolts tightened. Amazing how the right tool makes it so much easier.

O'reillys had one..it was Kastar brand # 525 for $7.95.
Lisle also makes one..#19940..it's about $8.00 also.
and OTC makes one...they were from $17 to $20.

I got the Kastar and it worked great. took a couple of minutes to get both pins out.

In the pic below the pin remover is on the right.
On the left is what I used to get the lock plate retaining ring out.
Just a mending plate and a couple of 1/4 bolts. worked great.

so, if anyone else has to do this, maybe those part #'s will help.

 

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BOGGER35 said:
pheonix827 just submited a HOWTO on this a week or so ago / it must not be posted yet
Still needs some editing. I know it's a LOT of info for what turns out to be a fairly simple job, there are a lot of little parts to keep track of. I KNOW I need to type up the re-assembly a bit more.
The pivot pins will just pull out with some finagling. When I did mine, I never even knew there was a special tool for it! lol I just cross threaded a sheetmetal screww tight enough to hold and pulled them out with a claw hammer. (*******, I know) ;D Once you get them out, relese the tilt adjuster and the whole top piece will come off,
Make sure you use lthread locker on the screws when you tighten the screws down or you WILL be doing it again! (and soon).
 

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I also put some liquid wrench on the piviot pins which made it a lot easier to get them out the next time I had to take the column apart.
 

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Lousy god-forsaken GM steering column! I did this to mine about a year ago. I "locktited" the inverted-torx bolts. Now my column is loose as hell again. I had a devil of a time doing this. Like an idiot, when I pulled the inverse-torx bolts out, l sat them on the dash, and knocked two of them down the defroster vents. I was not a happy camper. The prospect of having to do this again makes me wonder if I should also incorporate lock washers into the mix???

Jason
 

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Sweet, I'm glad i saw this thread. My steering column on my '93 CTD beats around and I saw in the FOUR WHEELER mag to tighten the bolts. I need to do it this weekend.
 

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auto zone has a tool set for the "reverse torx head bolts" that has one socket that will fit the tilt column bolts. I think they refer to them as star head bolts, I recall they are for 3/8 drive, I welded the right size socket to a 1/4 drive socket, cheaper than snap on or matco,
the site from Dirt Devil was about best I've seen for directions.
 

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DirtDevil said:
{wave} k guys here is the detailed fix looks i'm not the only lonely one kudos to this guys documentation{cool}{cool}
http://home.t-online.de/home/O_Scholz/steering.html
The link is dead now.
Does anyonne still have the how-to I sent in? I had completly forgotten about it!! Send it back to me with a list of whatever you need and I will see what I can do.
 

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chazz said:
. (hope I don't have to be logged in somewhere for these pics to stay up)



I think you do have to be logged in. All I get is pic temporarily unavailable.
 

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Why not just go the easy way out and pull the ignition and go to your local auto wrecker and pull a new column and switch the ignition. I think this is way easier.
 

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If you are far enough in to pull the ignition, you are almost in far enough to fix the problem. LOTS easier then swapping the column too!
 

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I have made a new how to on this topic, and have a 13 page in depth procedure saved in a Word .doc format.

It is a good complete How-To with step by step instructions, and nice clear photos.

To whom do I send this for posting on RCC?

 

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Nice job!! I just threaded whatever I had that fit into the pivot bolts and pryed them out. After about 1/4" they slide right out. This also works on many jeep and GM columns!
 
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