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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
On my newly acquired 85 Ramcharger the throttle is VERY stiff. From what I've found online, it seems like I'm going to have to replace the throttle cable. I was hoping to get any info possible from everyone on here about how much of a pain this is likely to be. Also, any suggestions on the belt place to get a new one?

Thanks in advance
Beardking
 

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Have you looked at the return spring for the throttle cable? Maybe someone put a spring on that has too much tension. I have a 74 and a 77 so I'm not sure how the 80's models are set up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I haven't checked that yet. Tried to the other day and realized that I'm a bit short. 😆 😆 Had to go buy a step stool so I can reach anything past the battery. 😆 😆
 

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check the spring first by working it by hand flipping the throttle / and its pretty easy to change the cable , being short helps also to change it = you can climb right in the engine bay and walk under the dash LOL

Note / you do NOT hafta remove the gas pedal assembly / see diagrams
 

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beardking said:
I haven't checked that yet. Tried to the other day and realized that I'm a bit short. 😆 😆 Had to go buy a step stool so I can reach anything past the battery. 😆 😆
HAHA. I'm only 5'8" so I hear ya. I built a scaffold around mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So, I got up on my equalizer step and looked at the throttle return spring and it doesn't look like that's the problem. The throttle snapped back with authority, but it wasn't overly stiff at the carb.  At the gas pedal, on the other hand, my right calf is about twice the size of my left after only driving it a few times.  :)

One other question, anyone have any idea why the h*ll anyone would wrap up the choke like in the pic below?  The truck start, runs, and idles just fine.
 

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because they didn't know how to adjust a choke pull off .... that vac pot is suppose to open the fully closed choke a tad when the motor starts and you touch the throttle , so it don't over choke and start galloping , blowin black smoke .  if your cable is bad just replace it BEFORE the ball pulls off the end ..... LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
dodge82273 said:
because they didn't know how to adjust a choke pull off .... that vac pot is suppose to open the fully closed choke a tad when the motor starts and you touch the throttle , so it don't over choke and start galloping , blowin black smoke . if your cable is bad just replace it BEFORE the ball pulls off the end ..... LOL
Makes sense. Gotta love old vehicles that have been rednecked every way possible. 😆

As for the throttle cable, ordered it last night, should have it Monday. If it's warm enough next week, I might be able to end my asymmetrical calf workout soon.
 

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dodge82273 said:
because they didn't know how to adjust a choke pull off .... that vac pot is suppose to open the fully closed choke a tad when the motor starts and you touch the throttle , so it don't over choke and start galloping , blowin black smoke . if your cable is bad just replace it BEFORE the ball pulls off the end ..... LOL
beat me to it
 

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Wile your in there ,i would disconnect throttle cable and return spring from carb. And see how the throttle shaft moves, maby give it a little wd-40 inside and out on shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
dodge82273 said:
because they didn't know how to adjust a choke pull off .... that vac pot is suppose to open the fully closed choke a tad when the motor starts and you touch the throttle , so it don't over choke and start galloping , blowin black smoke . if your cable is bad just replace it BEFORE the ball pulls off the end ..... LOL
Any chance you could direct me to instructions on how to adjust the choke pull off? I've never done that before. Thanks in advance.
 

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sure drive over here and I'll gladly pass on my knowledge , hands on . OOOH , I was afraid you were going to ask . I looked at the factory manual , sure enough there are instructions , with photos . They take up a few pages , I don't have a scan to enter them .... or that know how .... They also show use of special tools , which no one I know has , or has ever had . ( measuring gauges ) . ( dealer mechanics maybe )but after they learned how those tools probably stayed put away , time = money ... eyeballs work too .

I can tell you HOW it works , you must be detail oriented when learning . On d/side there is a stepped cam upon which the high idle throttle screw rests when the choke is cold / closed , on the pass side of the choke shaft is the pull off . Cold step on throttle , the choke plate should close . Now there is a s shape rod between the shaft and the vac can , if you push the vac can shaft IN it should pull on the choke plate shaft enough to open the choke about 1/8th to 1/4 inch .Now when you step on gas ounce while running , it allows that vac can to move the choke shaft allowing the high idle screw to drop off the highest cam lowering the idle a tad , as the engine warms , the choke opens , the slot the s shape connector rod allows the choke to open fully . 
so testing / adjusting    1st you wanna see the choke close all the way when 100% cold ( overnite) eng off throttle stepped on ounce + released
2nd you wanna see the high idle screw resting on the highest spot of the "cam" on driver side there .
3rd see the s connector rod pull open the choke shaft when you depress it by hand .
to adjust THAT , carefully bend the connector rod on the pass side

there is quite a bit TO this very simple function , very hard to type , your going to have to LOOK carefully at what TAKES place when the linkages are moved , take your time observe do not do anything that can't be undone , ask more questions post a picture pointing at what you need to know about , don't give up , it is really a simple machine , but this depends on that which depends on the first thing in order for it all to work as intended  :p if that makes any sense to ya
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
dodge82273 said:
sure drive over here and I'll gladly pass on my knowledge , hands on . OOOH , I was afraid you were going to ask . I looked at the factory manual , sure enough there are instructions , with photos . They take up a few pages , I don't have a scan to enter them .... or that know how .... They also show use of special tools , which no one I know has , or has ever had . ( measuring gauges ) . ( dealer mechanics maybe )but after they learned how those tools probably stayed put away , time = money ... eyeballs work too .

I can tell you HOW it works , you must be detail oriented when learning . On d/side there is a stepped cam upon which the high idle throttle screw rests when the choke is cold / closed , on the pass side of the choke shaft is the pull off . Cold step on throttle , the choke plate should close . Now there is a s shape rod between the shaft and the vac can , if you push the vac can shaft IN it should pull on the choke plate shaft enough to open the choke about 1/8th to 1/4 inch .Now when you step on gas ounce while running , it allows that vac can to move the choke shaft allowing the high idle screw to drop off the highest cam lowering the idle a tad , as the engine warms , the choke opens , the slot the s shape connector rod allows the choke to open fully .
so testing / adjusting 1st you wanna see the choke close all the way when 100% cold ( overnite) eng off throttle stepped on ounce + released
2nd you wanna see the high idle screw resting on the highest spot of the "cam" on driver side there .
3rd see the s connector rod pull open the choke shaft when you depress it by hand .
to adjust THAT , carefully bend the connector rod on the pass side

there is quite a bit TO this very simple function , very hard to type , your going to have to LOOK carefully at what TAKES place when the linkages are moved , take your time observe do not do anything that can't be undone , ask more questions post a picture pointing at what you need to know about , don't give up , it is really a simple machine , but this depends on that which depends on the first thing in order for it all to work as intended :p if that makes any sense to ya
Man, if you were close, I'd drive there. :) (although, I'm not sure where there is. :)

And, like with most things carb related, what you said makes sense, even though it makes no sense. I'm probably going to leave things be for now simply because...well...it works. The truck starts fairly well for a 34 year old beater, so I don't want to piss off the karma gods by screwing with things too much just yet. :)
 

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yeah the fsm shows a gauge for the plate opening too LOL ... they make it out to be more of a tech job than it is .
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well, I got the new throttle cable in the mail and went to install it today, but I can't get the old one out. The little plastic "grommet" thing at the firewall will NOT come out. I'm not sure if I'm supposed to squeeze or push or curse (actually, I take it back, I know that didn't help), but I can't get the bugger out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
DODGEBOYS said:
did you click on my diagrams above to make them LARGER and read the instructions
Yes I did. A few days ago. And completely forgot about them when I was working on it today. 😆

To clarify, the clip that it says to remove, is that on the inside of the cab?
 
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