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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
does any one know of reputable reliable parts suppliers by experience that I could order parts for my trans rebuild? I have a nice rebuild book, and they provide numerous "recipies" for a tough reliable trans, but they dont list or name parts suppliers for those parts. Id like to get it right the 1st time.

Also thoughts on a neutral balance 10" HD non lockup torque converter? engine RPM range idle - 6K, 512 stroker, with a armchair bench estimate around 500-625 HP range..

Thanks
 

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PATC or Cope transmission, esp Cope
 

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does any one know of reputable reliable parts suppliers by experience that I could order parts for my trans rebuild? I have a nice rebuild book, and they provide numerous "recipies" for a tough reliable trans, but they dont list or name parts suppliers for those parts. Id like to get it right the 1st time.

Also thoughts on a neutral balance 10" HD non lockup torque converter? engine RPM range idle - 6K, 512 stroker, with a armchair bench estimate around 500-625 HP range..

Thanks
That's gonna be a fun ride.
 

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These guys are the original Torqueflite gurus... Chrysler 727 Trans - A&A Transmissions
I ran a lot of their parts in my 727 without an issue.
Gear Vendors was another issue altogether.
They were the main reason I went a totally different direction recently.
It's hard to run an overdrive when your pushing horsepower.
 

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does any one know of reputable reliable parts suppliers by experience that I could order parts for my trans rebuild? I have a nice rebuild book, and they provide numerous "recipies" for a tough reliable trans, but they dont list or name parts suppliers for those parts. Id like to get it right the 1st time.

Also thoughts on a neutral balance 10" HD non lockup torque converter? engine RPM range idle - 6K, 512 stroker, with a armchair bench estimate around 500-625 HP range..

Thanks
Neutral balance comes from the crank your running. A forged piece I assume.
A 10" converter may not be the best choice. First off they don't hold a lot of fluid. They have a fairly healthy stall speed. Which all make a lot of heat.
Heat is bad for an automatic. You need all the fluid you can with lots of cooling.
With the weight your pushing around... you don't want high stall.
Your engine sounds real close to what I'm running. You should have lots of torque available.
High stall usually works well with stiff (low) gears and high revving capabilities. All of which doesn't work well with heavy vesicles or any likelihood of off roading.
In fact... high revving, narrow power band, stiff gears are no fun to drive on the street.
Torque is the answer. And that's what Big Blocks are for.
 

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After looking at your other post, and seeing your cam specs... I would definitely stay away from the 10" converter. Though you didn't have the duration specs there... with 110 centerlines, you might have a revver cam. I hope not.
No matter what... you would be wise to get a Heavy Duty one.
I ran a B&M Street Fighter a ways back with my first stroker. Thinking I could go the cheap way out. Nope. I chewed through that unit pretty quickly. And that stroker was fairly mild compared to what I'm running now.
Hughes Performance... Welcome to Hughes Performance - Hughes Performance makes some really nice convertors. They ain't cheap. But when you start pushing horsepower... you better not scrimp on the hardware. I know. Been there.
As suggested above... Cope and PATC make good stuff too.
 

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Completely stock parts are good to 600 horse as a stock street Hemi put out 575 horse (way under rated st 425 horse) and with a few choice parts good to a 1000 horse
They were built for the engine that was put in front of them. A 727 for a 440 has more clutch plates, and planetary pinions, then one being turned by a 318. One behind a 440 will take more power then the one behind the 318.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
My scat stoker rotating assembly has a forged crank, H beam rods, icon pistons, set up for my engine to run 10.5-106 to 1. from my blueprint sheet included. it is a 8 bolt crank, so I put a B&M 8 bolt flexplate on there and it has the 10" bolt pattern. So i guessing i can run a multitude of sizes of torque converters? * I havent researched the trans end of my build much at all, as you can probly tell.

i was thinking a low stall, possibly billet tq converter. but wasnt sure on a great reliable brand for my build. my intent of my build was OEM but better with more HP and torque, suspension. etc. but same use. Not a daily driver, but weekend offroader, play truck, occasional sand dunes, hill climbs. play in the snow in the winter time.
 

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They were built for the engine that was put in front of them. A 727 for a 440 has more clutch plates, and planetary pinions, then one being turned by a 318. One behind a 440 will take more power then the one behind the 318.

George , thats what l said as thats another one of my ID's [ relative left with the other tablet l was using ]

kilqc = dodgeboys.net
 

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'79 Macho 360 Magnum, Comp 480 cam, Hughes springs, 650 Thunder AVS, Pertronix Flamethrower ignition
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After looking at your other post, and seeing your cam specs... I would definitely stay away from the 10" converter. Though you didn't have the duration specs there... with 110 centerlines, you might have a revver cam. I hope not.
No matter what... you would be wise to get a Heavy Duty one.
I ran a B&M Street Fighter a ways back with my first stroker. Thinking I could go the cheap way out. Nope. I chewed through that unit pretty quickly. And that stroker was fairly mild compared to what I'm running now.
Hughes Performance... Welcome to Hughes Performance - Hughes Performance makes some really nice convertors. They ain't cheap. But when you start pushing horsepower... you better not scrimp on the hardware. I know. Been there.
As suggested above... Cope and PATC make good stuff too.
A narrow lobe separation makes good bottom end also, especially if it's carbureted. I'm going to sell my new 114 Comp Cam for a Hughes 110 cam for better bottom end. Injection likes those wider patterns.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
My cam specs for my built engine. I stated 110* I was incorrect.... see pic
 

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'79 Macho 360 Magnum, Comp 480 cam, Hughes springs, 650 Thunder AVS, Pertronix Flamethrower ignition
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Thats a healthy cam, especially with 1.6 rockers. Should be fun on the street.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Im looking at the Hughes 24 Fuel torque converter.. or the tow.. But i dont plan on towing with the RC> as i have a RAM 3500.

any experience with either of these converters? Would one of these be an appropriate application for my build.. Thank you.
 

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for anything HOTTER than a a RV cam you need a Stall converter , the factory High stall is 2200 rpm for the Magnum / RoadRunner cam of 268 duration , any cam with more duration needs more stall

Note / l grew up in the "gross lift " era of cam listing , the new style 50 thousands style listing just confuses me and l,m to old to learn
 
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that cam you have is a copy of the Purple Shaft 509 with 292 duration - NOT recommended for a truck or for the street , it's as close to a FULL race cam as you can get

l,m sure more will chime in as we have had this "talk" about the 509 plenty of times , it's a very healthy cam and is fun in a 3200 Lbs car with 391 or 410 gears but gets OLD quick as it's just to radical for a daily driver or a truck unless your building a MAX power mud racer

my 1964 A100 "little brown brick" has a 1972 440 w/ 1967 "915" heads ported w/ 10.5 to 1 comp pistons and the 509 - 292 purple shaft w/ full manual reverse 727 with 3500 rpm stall converter / it's fun to play with once in a while , but l,m getting older and l wanna just "drive" it and enjoy it [ which cant be done with the 509 cam ]
 
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