Dodge RamCharger Central banner
41 - 56 of 56 Posts

· Premium Member
Joined
·
6,500 Posts
I find all exhaust guy's lazy unless they make headers, you mention work, they look like death warmed over, if the header is installed correctly there is no gasket issues, there are no collector issues, there are no leaks, now after saying that, be very careful in what monkey shop you hire to do that job.

 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,610 Posts
well here is what I found today:
right side manifold from chrysler: 630 bucks
left side manifold from chrysler: 340 bucks
everything else needed to replace everything there comes to about 1500 plus tax in parts.

now, that being said, I have some more questions:
did pre 88 trucks have the heat riser?
I assume that does no longer work with the thorleys, right? According to my smog guy, I need this, since I have it, to bring it through the smog.

Since another muffler shop today was like: well, we really don't want to invest in the time to do such work, I'd have my local Dodge dealer install headers, if I decide to go that route. But I'm still really unclear of what to think about it, a lot of people don't like them. Complain that they leak, that you need to retorque them every 2 weeks, that your starter dies from heat every month...in short: nothing but trouble. Other swear by them. I'm confused.

Anyway, if anyone has more helpful info for me during my decision making process, I'd be glad to read it.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
4,027 Posts
As long as you have good quality headers and a good quality gasket, you should be good. Just check the torques a couple days after installing them, and then a week or two later. Keep torqueing them as long as they come loose. Once they stop coming loose you should have nothing to worry about.

If you are worried about the starter, then buy a heat shield (or have one made), or swap to a magnum "mini" starter.
 
G

·
I have the Hooker headers on mine. I do not retorque the header bolts, I checked them for a couple of months after putting them in, and haven't had a problem. I had to replace the starter once, but as far as I know it was the original 1976 starter that came with the donor car. On thing that will help is to make sure that your exhaust is well supported and not hanging from the collectors. That is where a lot of problems come from.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
Discussion Starter · #46 ·
santak said:
Anyway, if anyone has more helpful info for me during my decision making process, I'd be glad to read it.
Wow old post that has come back to life...I would just go get the Throley's and call it a day.

ED3 is right when it comes to headers, if they are quality and installed right they won't leak and you will not need to worry about them all that much.

Overall I think you will be very pleased with the Thorley's, they make a quality product and have top notch customer service (just ordered a set back about 3 months ago for my Dad's 55).

Oh yeah one more thing....finalizing a deal on a new '90 RC...guess its time for round two ;D

Mike
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,610 Posts
And a third time around :)

first off, congrats Mike and Good Luck in round 2 with another one ;)

Secondly, I finalized my plans, I'm spending the money on thorleysinstead of getting manifolds for essentially more money. Question is, which ones, normal nickel plated or ceramic coated? It's a price difference of 200 bucks, but by parts bill for manifolds and all other stuff is even 200 bucks above the ceramic coated stuff, so that doesn't really bother.
I was thinking about getting them jet coated but my main problem here is: my truck's a daily driver and I can't afford having my truck down for 10-14 days driving a rental, that's getting too much for budget. That, plus Thorley mentioned something about a void warranty if you "wrap" your headers.
What does that ceramic coating really do? What is it good for? I assume heat reduction, rust prevention :-\

That, and if anyone has a part# for ARP header bolts for a Chrysler 318 engine, I would love to hear it. Every part# I looked up tonight at Summit turned up as a 340/360 only part#. Is there a difference in the header bolt size?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,734 Posts
The warenty is void if you use a wrap meaing the fiberglass ones you do at home.I would definetly use the jet hot coatings they reduce heat and will allow for much longer life,I have used it many times myself in the past and will continue to do so.The only thing you ne3ed to ask yourself is what color im partial to the flat black myself but the do a nice silver now.
For the header bolts there the same on all small blocks,but I would recomend these
www.stage8.com/AutomotiveStart.htm
they will cost more but will never come out and I believe in doing it right the first time
;D
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,610 Posts
Would it matter if I first fit the headers, drive around with them and then jet coat them? Or does that only work on brand new header? Because, as read above, first coating and then fitting is probably not the best thing to do...although, it would be the same with the ceramic coated ones, wouldn't it?

Gotta get some sleep, can't think straight no more.

Thanks for the alternative for header bolts, looks good to me right now. Gotta look again in the morning...how you east coaster can still be around at that time, I don't know...gotta be already 4am over there :)
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,734 Posts
Yea im usually up pretty late around here :)

As for the coatings I have only ever don them on new stuff I dont even know if it can be done after the fact.It is fairly tough stuff thou it wont just scrach off,I dont think fitting the headers in after coating them would be much of a issue they are designed to fit just gotta be a little more carfull lay some towles across the inner fenders :)
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,610 Posts
sooner or later everything will rust, my experience. And I don't expect it to be any different in that case. The question is just when it's going to start. I'll have mine jet coated once I get them and that should prolong their lifes dramatically from what I hear.
The normal chrome plating holds up better than paint I guess, but even with that, I read about these things getting tiny cracks in the plating and then it's open for rust. This takes some time, but it's all a matter of time, since it is not stainless steel and any plating is also just rust prevention, it doesn't 100% protect it.

So, my final answer to your question would be a simple: yes.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
714 Posts
I have had my thorleys on my RC for 10 yrs and they have not rusted.  They look real good still.  With that said I am still going to send them to jethot for a good coating.  You can see them on the thread about RC transformation into Juggernaut.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 

· Super Moderator
Joined
·
14,723 Posts
Muskalade said:
Do Thorley headers rust?
well eventually everything will show some signs of age and eventually rust, but the very best is JetHot, and like Homer mentioned that's what we're going to do with his. The nickel coating is good but the heat cycles will eventually win. JetHot is by far the best long-term coating on the planet.

- Sam
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,392 Posts
I'm NOT saying I know a smog station in Azusa California that can pass stuff for a buck big, one hundred duckies, yep one hundred smiling George Washingtons, yep, ten Abraham Lincolns, 100 smackaroos, one Benjy, nope......... I'm not saying that at all, nope, nope, nope, I'd never say that, not even......... never.... it's against the law you know......lol.
 
41 - 56 of 56 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top