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Discussion Starter · #101 ·
I just can't win.  I got the engine on a stand where I can actually work on it (many thanks to Derek for letting me borrow his stand! 8) ) and I finally get some time to work on cleaning it up tonight.  Had stopped by NAPA and bought primer and paint, degreaser, brakecleen, and new waterpump and a new oil pump, and some gaskets.  I was scraping goo out of the freeze plugs, and POP.  I made a pin hole (well, slightly larger....) :(. Wasn't even scratching very hard.  I finally rounded up a bucket to catch the antifreeze spraying everywhere and let it drain.

I cleaned up and gave up for the night.  I am undecided whether to try and just replace all the freeze plugs, since they are probably all this thin, or go for a total rebuild.  I have a feeling if I replaced the freeze plugs, at least one would leak. :-\  I'll call around tomorrow and get some prices on a basically stock 360 rebuild.  I would at lerast like to have them mill the heads a bit to bump up the lethargic compression I have read about for these beasts (any suggestions here are more than welcome ;D ).

Sigh.  I am going to go find a cold beer. :-\

BTW - no worries Tim.  I did not expect a perfect engine for the raging deal you gave me. ;) ;D

-SM
 

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Discussion Starter · #102 ·
New engine (89 block) is on stand.  As Tim and Eric know, I am having an issue with the oil pump driveshaft not fitting snugly in the new blocks' bushing.  The shaft is way too loose.

I called engines direct (the company I ordered the engine from) and talked to a helpful guy, he was baffled with my problem too.  He is looking into it a little further to see if there was possibly a wrong bushing installed.  Don't know what will happen if that is the case.  But I was happy to find they actually seem concerned about the problem, rather than give me the "tough luck" scenerio.

I ordered a new oil pump shaft from summit, so I'll keep my fingers crossed that it will fit properly.  Otherwise, I will have to buy a new bushing and the tools to remove and install them...

-SM
 

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Discussion Starter · #103 ·
Oh yeah. At least some good news. New block is wearing her new coat of chryco blue. ;D





Also have most of the other parts and tins cleaned and painted.





Gaskets are on order. New oil pump drive is on order. 4bbl aluminum intake is on order. I hope to be assembling later this week.
 

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Slanted_Mind said:
New engine (89 block) is on stand. As Tim and Eric know, I am having an issue with the oil pump driveshaft not fitting snugly in the new blocks' bushing. The shaft is way too loose.

I called engines direct (the company I ordered the engine from) and talked to a helpful guy, he was baffled with my problem too. He is looking into it a little further to see if there was possibly a wrong bushing installed. Don't know what will happen if that is the case. But I was happy to find they actually seem concerned about the problem, rather than give me the "tough luck" scenerio.

I ordered a new oil pump shaft from summit, so I'll keep my fingers crossed that it will fit properly. Otherwise, I will have to buy a new bushing and the tools to remove and install them...

-SM
glad to see their tech support is one of those that doesnt just give you the blow off. let us know what they say and how they come through for you aaron.

who knows, maybe you can talk them into purchasing the tools and stuff for you. lol

eric
 

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Discussion Starter · #105 ·
intenseimages said:
who knows, maybe you can talk them into purchasing the tools and stuff for you. lol

eric
I highly doubt that. I priced the special tools online last night. Bushing removal tool is $125, the install tool is $100! :eek: I won't be shelling that over for a tool I'll use once to install a $6 part. :mad:

I'll either pack the block down to a machine shop and have them do it, or Kendall offered to send me his tools in the mail for me to use, then I could send them back or bring them to RJ if I can make it. If the new shaft does not fix the problem, that is likely the route I will go. However, his tools are for the magnum block. Does anyone know if the bushings are the same for LA and Mag blocks???

-SM
 

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PN 2863 584 oil pump and dist driveshaft bushing 1982-1985 la small block

PN 4095 260 oil pump and dist driveshaft 1982-85 la small block


PN 1737 725 oil pump and dist driveshaft bushing 1988-89 la small block with roller cam

PN 4095 260 oil pump and dist driveshaft 1988-89 la small block roller cam


looks like the bushing changed midyear of 87 according to the parts manuals

eric



 

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Discussion Starter · #107 ·
Odd that the bushing changed but the driveshaft did not...

I wonder if the OD of the bushing changed, or if it was a length or material change.  ID must be the same if they use the same shaft.  I'll have to see if Kendall has the special Tool PN for the removal and install tools.  Do you have the special tool numbers for the '89 roller cam block eric?  With the bushings being different, I don't expect they are the same tool as is listed in my '86 FSM. :-\
 

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Discussion Starter · #108 ·
Just checked the drive shaft PN's at NapaOnline for an '89 360 and a '96 360, they are the same.  So the driveshaft itself did not change from LA to magnum blocks.  I cannot find a listing for the bushing though.
 

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Slanted_Mind said:
Just checked the drive shaft PN's at NapaOnline for an '89 360 and a '96 360, they are the same. So the driveshaft itself did not change from LA to magnum blocks. I cannot find a listing for the bushing though.
i would think if the inside diameter is the same then the tools would be the same as it slides inside of the bushing and pulls it out. i will see what i can find though

eric
 

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original dodge part number c-3052 is the removal tool for pre roller engines according to the FSM

original dodge part number c-3053 is the install and burnishing tool for pre roller engines

eric
 

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Discussion Starter · #111 ·
intenseimages said:
original dodge part number c-3052 is the removal tool for pre roller engines according to the FSM

original dodge part number c-3053 is the install and burnishing tool for pre roller engines

eric
That is what my '86 lists as well for pre rollers. Those are the tools I priced at a combined $225 :eek:

Kendall said he thought his were only $30 or so, which is much more reasonable (though still more than I would like to spend). His were from Miller (lited in the back of the FSM), so I may have to give them a call. I forgot the name of the company I found online, but they must be smoking crack at their prices, that or they platinum plate all of their tools. ;D

Oiy. Here's hoping that the new shaft fixes the problem....
 

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yeha i looked up some tools real quick and the prices i found were more outrageous than the ones you did. lol


might try calling some of the local parts stores that do tool loans and see if they dont possibly have one. i will also look at harbor freight and see what they have

eric
 

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Discussion Starter · #114 ·
That might be the hot ticket.  there is a HF right down the street from where I work, might have to check it out on the way home.

Thanks Eric. :)
 

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i was going to tell you if you didnt have an HF i got one about a mile from my house.

let us know if this ends up working out. might save a bunch of people problems in the future

eric
 

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Discussion Starter · #116 ·
I was wrong, the HF is about a mile from my house, not work. ;D  I have not yet stopped by, I was occupied by looking at pieces and parts from a '93 W350 Diesel a guy was parting out last night.  I wanted the buckets and center consol for my '87, but they had seen better days.  I am still mulling it over, I may grab the seats for the '78.  Though the driver's seat has a nasty tear, and there are multiple cigarette burns in both seats, they would be decent for an off-road rig.  Nothing a cover wouldn't cure I guess.  I think the guy just wants as many parts out of it gone as possible (he bought it (wrecked) for the cummins and driveline) so I could probably get them pretty cheap.  Really wish I had more room to store crap right now. ;D

Anyway, FedEx tracking says my package with the new oil pump drive should be here tonight, so I should have an answer on whether a new shaft cures the problem later this evening.  Still keeping my fingers crossed, but I won't hold my breathe. :-\
 

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hmmmm w350, did ya grab the axles? or when you said he wanted the driveline did you actually mean the drivetrain?

those one ton axles would have a good possibility of bolting right under the 78 (can you say front d60 boys and girls ;D) and i know that d70 would be stronger than the rear under there now. i mean if you are going offroad specific with the truck might as well REALLY build it ;D

eric
 

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Discussion Starter · #118 ·
intenseimages said:
hmmmm w350, did ya grab the axles? or when you said he wanted the driveline did you actually mean the drivetrain?

those one ton axles would have a good possibility of bolting right under the 78 (can you say front d60 boys and girls ;D) and i know that d70 would be stronger than the rear under there now. i mean if you are going offroad specific with the truck might as well REALLY build it ;D

eric
Whoops, yeah, drivetrain. Believe me, I asked. ;D He was using the cummins, trans, and front 60 for an international scout he had in his garage, because he kept blowing the front chevy 44HD he had. He was going to use the rear 70 as well, but fired a wheel bearing (and toasted the tube) towing it back from Texas. He ended up buying a trailer in TX to get the truck back to Idaho..

Anyway, I got my new oil pump drive from summit today. It has less play than the old shaft, but it still dropped right in, and has a bit of wobble. I would guess probably .004-.005" in the bushing now, which is still almost twice the max spec of .0027" (any ideas on how to actually measure this?). :( I don't know what the hell to do now other than see if NAPA can get me a new bushing, and stop by HF and hope that tool will work to R&R the bushing. I am going to call the engine company back tomorrow and see what they say. I can't say I expect much, it's not like they can do anything from arizona. :-\

Oh, and my slap in the face, I forgot to order the oil pump priming tool when I placed this order from summit. ARG!!
 

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Slanted_Mind said:
(any ideas on how to actually measure this?)
dont know if it is the proper way or not aaron, but looking at this 60 block i have here, looks like if you have a dial indicator with a long reach you could slide the pointer tip down through one of the number 8 cylinder lifter bores and get it to rest on the pump driveshaft and then move driveshaft back and forth and see how much play it shows.

i am wondering if they didnt burnish the bushing when they installed it. from reading the description of installing one, it looks like you slide bushing on tool, slide tool and bushing in hole and drive it in place. then it says you tighten the nut on top of tool and as it is withdrawn it burnishes the bushing to the proper size.
i have never used one of these, but is it possible after the bushing is driven in place to just slide the tool out? if so that may be what they did and didnt get it burnished so it is showing that it is to large. as i said, i have never used one of these, so i am not totally familiar with exactly how they work.
sure would like to get you straightened out on this though.

on a side note, since you ordered a new shaft. how much fabbing would you like to do?
might be easier to buy a priming tool, but if you are like me and hate spending money, cut the head off of the old driveshaft and weld, braze, solder, etc, the rest of shaft that goes into oil pump onto a longer rod that will slide through the bushing. make sure rod is long enough to clear top of block, then chuck the other end in a hand drill and voila, engine priming tool.

eric
 
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