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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Compression test results....

Average: 117 PSI :-\  Not great, but not too bad, and not unexpected for 143k miles.

Cyl    Comp    Deviation
1        120        + 2.5%
2        135        + 15.4%
3        105         - 10.3%
4        115         - 1.7%
5        115         - 1.7%
6        115         - 1.7%
7        110         - 6.0%
8        120        + 2.6%

Obviously #2 is quite high and #3 quite low in comparison to the others.  Tomorrow I am changing the oil (probably straight 30 weight, maybe 20w-50) and adding some "Restore" to see if it helps the compression a bit.  I did not do a 'wet' comp test because I already know what it will tel me, I have worn rings. :(  Again, I am not surprised, but I think the old girl has another 30-40k miles in her. :)

Tomorrow is general tune up, and begin the fluid changing process, as well as degreasing. :eek:  I had planned to pick up most of the stuff at NAPA today, but got sidetracked and they closed before I could make it. 

BTW - I was surprised to find th only plug with any evidence of burning oil was #8, and it was not very bad.  The majority of the plugs showed a rich mixture, and all looked to be too hot on the heat range.  The rich appearance could be decieving though, as it sounded like this truck has not had a tune up in a copuple years.  I'll likely just stay with the stock heat range, but switch from the autolites that were in it (bleck) to NGK's.  I'll post back tomorrow with any other progress.

Aaron
 

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Glad to see that your numbers are as expected.  Mine were doing the same until I came to #7... 10 lbs. :eek:  Wet didn't change it and I could hear compressed air coming out of the tail pipe.  Ding, ding, ding.. burned exhaust valve. :'(

Looks like your engine will give you a few more years of abuse..er.. use. ;D
 

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Slanted_Mind said:
Compression test results....

Average: 117 PSI :-\ Not great, but not too bad, and not unexpected for 143k miles.

Cyl Comp Deviation
1 120 + 2.5%
2 135 + 15.4%
3 105 - 10.3%
4 115 - 1.7%
5 115 - 1.7%
6 115 - 1.7%
7 110 - 6.0%
8 120 + 2.6%

Obviously #2 is quite high and #3 quite low in comparison to the others. Tomorrow I am changing the oil (probably straight 30 weight, maybe 20w-50) and adding some "Restore" to see if it helps the compression a bit. I did not do a 'wet' comp test because I already know what it will tel me, I have worn rings. :( Again, I am not surprised, but I think the old girl has another 30-40k miles in her. :)

Tomorrow is general tune up, and begin the fluid changing process, as well as degreasing. :eek: I had planned to pick up most of the stuff at NAPA today, but got sidetracked and they closed before I could make it.

BTW - I was surprised to find th only plug with any evidence of burning oil was #8, and it was not very bad. The majority of the plugs showed a rich mixture, and all looked to be too hot on the heat range. The rich appearance could be decieving though, as it sounded like this truck has not had a tune up in a copuple years. I'll likely just stay with the stock heat range, but switch from the autolites that were in it (bleck) to NGK's. I'll post back tomorrow with any other progress.

Aaron
aaron, befoer i went to ordering some rings for it, i would yank the valve covers and check the condition of the pushrods. also check to make sure you are pumping oil up to the rockres and lifter valley.

could be something as simple as a slightly stuck valve or a bent pushrod instead of a ring job. if it were me, i would run a can of seafoam through the crankcase for about 15 or 30 minutes as well as running some into the intake via the PCV valve before i changed the oil. it may not help it any, but it could also clean out a lot of gunk in it and who knows, might make a marked difference in how she is running.

just a thought

eric
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
I am planning on running some seafoam in the oil before I change it.  I would run it through the intke as well, but I am sure my neighbors would be NONE to happy about it.  In fact, my lease says I am not even supposed to work on vehicles. :eek:  I am in good with the president of the homeowners association though. ;D

Anyway, thanks for reminding me about the seafoam. I probably should yank the valve covers too...

Last question, how accurate do the old gauges in these rigs tend to be?  I am not enthused by the oil pressure gauge, which takes too long to show pressure IMO (like 20-30 seconds :eek: ) and nevers shows more than approx 20 psi (best as I can tell/guess).  I plan on installing new gauges, but am curious if i should be prepared to accept the factory gauges reading...

Aaron
 

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i didnt actually look at your gauges that close the other day. do you have actual numbers or the normal dodge hash marks indicating a supposed pressure?

alot of these older trucks on the stock gauges will show about the first, every once in a while the second, hash mark. on the actual numbers gauges it will show between 20 and 30.

specs call for something like 8 to 80 pounds, or some ridiculous number like that. figure 10 psi for every 1000 RPM, so at idle or up to about 30 or 40 miles per hour and 2000 RPM 20 psi is about right.

i would still hook up a mechanical gauge and see what it says. odds are you will find it putting out about 10 or so more pounds than the stock gauge shows. i would say yo uare abut the low end of average on a stock gauge

eric
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Yeah, I know about the 10 psi for every 1000 rpm rule of thumb.  The stock gauge has a zero, 40, and 100 on it.  There is a hash between 0 and 40  that is just past halfway between them, biased to the 40 side.  The gauge reads just shy of this mark (about halfway bewteen 0 and 40, hence the 20 psi guess) and does not move from there.  I have held the engine at what I guess to be around 3000 rpm (no tach) and the gauge did not show an increased reading, which kind of alarms me.  I will see what a new gauge says before I get too worried I guess.  :-\

-SM
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Here ya go. A picture of my gauges with the engine running. This is after an oil & filter change (the old oil drained like water! :eek: ) I ran the engine at fast idle (I'll guess around 2000 rpm) with a can of sea-foam in the crankcase for half an hour, then drained and replaced it with NAPA (Valvoline) dino 15w-40, and a can of Restore. Unfortunately, oil pressure did not change. In fact, it looks more like 15 psi instead of 20 :(



Even, worse, now after an oil change, new plugs, wires, % cap (could not find a decent rotor :-\ ) I can now see a blue haze from the exhaust at all times. :( She's an oil burner. I guess I will be on the lookout for a junkyard 360 with 30-50k miles on it. Realistically, if I am going to change engines, I want to go to a newer magnum engine, but carb it. I'll start checking out local yards, but pickin's are slim.

I am posting pictures of the distributor on the vehicle help board in a few minutes to see if anyone knows what this thing is. My preliminary feeling is it is a points distributor with a pertronix ignitior EI conversion. ;)

Aaron
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Well, I have sourced all new gauges, including a tach for about $190.  Without tach for $140.  That is about the cheapest I could find and maintain all electrical gauges (I do not want to mess with mechanical oil and temp gauges anymore, and today's aftermarket electrical units are just as accurate) and replace all four smaller gauges (fuel, oil, water temp, volts).  Now I just need to find my stashed away summit bucks.  I think I have $20 or $30 from previous orders, unless someone has a discount code they want to share. ;D

I was also thinking last night, since I know the valve seals are toast, maybe my blue exhaust haze is caused by those more so than shot rings...probably a combination of both.  How hard are valve seals to change with the engine in the truck?  I am really missing my engine stand and hoist (both in Alaska) right now. :(

BTW - It looks like my dist is indeed a points dist with a Pertronix Ignitor installed in it. ;)
 

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If you can borrow or rent a hoist, I've got a stand I'll cut you a real good deal on...
 

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BurnOut said:
If you can borrow or rent a hoist, I've got a stand I'll cut you a real good deal on...
I've got one of each available. You guys are on the wrong end of the state. ;D
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
BurnOut said:
If you can borrow or rent a hoist, I've got a stand I'll cut you a real good deal on...
I may take you up on that, I just called and left a message about a (supposedly) 'new' 360 shortblock in the paper. If it is indeed 'new', and the price is right, I'll probably pick it up. Then send my current heads off to the shop to be rebuilt, and I could use a stand to assemble the new engine. If I have too I'll buy a hoist, but I think I could probably rent one for a day for pretty cheap. With everything ready, I'll only need a hoist for an hour or two to get the old block out and the new in.

Is it in Boise at your parents house? ;D
 

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Yep, and I'll be in town all of next week. It's an AC Delco (I think...) 1000 pound stand, four casters, and full rotation. Message me if you're interested and we'll figure something out...
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
Question, did 78 W150's originally come equipped with a catalytic converter or converters?  If it did, they have been 'liberated' from mine, andI am going to have to reinstall one for emissions testing here in Ada county. :(  What about an air pump and EGR valve?  I see no evidence of either of those either.... :eek:
 

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Slanted_Mind said:
Question, did 78 W150's originally come equipped with a catalytic converter or converters? If it did, they have been 'liberated' from mine, andI am going to have to reinstall one for emissions testing here in Ada county. :( What about an air pump and EGR valve? I see no evidence of either of those either.... :eek:
aaron, look at your door tag. what is the gvwr? if it is listed as over 6000 poounds it still qualified as a heavy duty vehicle in 78 and did not need the cats or the smog stuff. my guess is it probalby didnt have them, especially as even a ramcharger from that year qualified at 6001 gvwr

eric
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Door tag is illegible. :(

But I imagine the curb weight of this thing is at least 5000 lbs, so it should have a GVWR over 6000. Cool. 8)  I won't have to deal with cats when I get new exhaust. ;D

Side note, I just got the title transferred and new plates.  They gave me tags until next july, so I won't have to worry about emissions until then anyway. ;D
 

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Slanted_Mind said:
Door tag is illegible. :(

But I imagine the curb weight of this thing is at least 5000 lbs, so it should have a GVWR over 6000. Cool. 8) I won't have to deal with cats when I get new exhaust. ;D

Side note, I just got the title transferred and new plates. They gave me tags until next july, so I won't have to worry about emissions until then anyway. ;D
cool deal. btw, did you see my reply to "someone who might take that magnum off of my hands"? i am sure if the conditions were right, it could be pried away from me fairly easy=-)

eric
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
Yes, yes I did. ;D  Let me know if she's a runner, and (hopefully) only needs minor work.  I'm not sure what it would cost to re-work mag heads, but I am sure it wouldn't be cheap. :(

Check out my response in that thread.  If you can get me a picture of that axle, i can keep an eye out.
 

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Slanted_Mind said:
Yes, yes I did. ;D Let me know if she's a runner, and (hopefully) only needs minor work. I'm not sure what it would cost to re-work mag heads, but I am sure it wouldn't be cheap. :(

Check out my response in that thread. If you can get me a picture of that axle, i can keep an eye out.
let you know what i find out on the magnum and i posted a link over in the other thread that explains about all you ever want to know about the ferd axles.

eric
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
Thanks, I'll print that off and keep an eye out if I ever get to the 'Jungle.  I have been trying toi get over there for almost a month now, but the g/f keeps finding other things she wants to do (and hence, I get to do as well), and other things pop up (say, like driving to Eden to pick up a certain truck ;D ) on the weekends.  I'm sure they have some 80's exploders in there.  From that link, it looks like up to '94 Exploders would work as well?  Assuming I could find the right gear ratio with a LS/locker...

I know you are looking for relatively cheap.  What would a practical upper limit be?
 

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Slanted_Mind said:
What would a practical upper limit be?
free. lmfao

if i could find a good working unit for about $150 or so i could probably swing it in a few weeks. i know i see these axles all of the time for about that price, but they are usually gone before i get the money or they dont have an LS. kind of like everyones perpetual search for a frotn dana 60 for under $1000

eric
 
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