Dodge RamCharger Central banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

Registered
Joined
191 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Are the bolts for thermostat housing through bolts? Do I need to put gasket maker on the bolts to keep it from leaking? Gonna replaces all the coolant hoses next week because they're are old and expanded and might be leaking. But I got a sneaking suspicion that it's coming from that housing. It was hell getting it to seal last summer but it seams it's always wet

1985 W150 Royal SE. 5.9 360 727 3 speed auto
 

Moderator
'79 Macho 360 Magnum, Comp 480 cam, Hughes springs, 650 Thunder AVS, Pertronix Flamethrower ignition
Joined
4,277 Posts
No. You do not need to. If it's an aluminum intake and you felt ambitious you could use a bit of anti-sieze on the bolts.
 

Moderator
'79 Macho 360 Magnum, Comp 480 cam, Hughes springs, 650 Thunder AVS, Pertronix Flamethrower ignition
Joined
4,277 Posts
Make sure that both surfaces are free of any old gasket debris.
 

Super Moderator
Joined
14,077 Posts
housing can easily corrode/pit. I had a hard time sealing mine. sand it on fine paper on a flat surface to ensure it's straight
 

Moderator
'79 Macho 360 Magnum, Comp 480 cam, Hughes springs, 650 Thunder AVS, Pertronix Flamethrower ignition
Joined
4,277 Posts
That's true also. If corrosion is the case then after sanding like the Doc said, make sure to use some sealant (RTV silicone) on both surfaces (housing side and intake side) along with the gasket.
 

Super Moderator
Joined
1,474 Posts
If it's a chrome t-stat housing, it will never seal right. Especially with an aluminum intake. Should be blind holes, loc time wouldn't hurt but RTV on threads should hold it in.
 

Registered
Joined
1,959 Posts
If you have one of those old school fancy aftermarket chrome thermostat housings, yes it is going to leak. They always did.

Bucky
 

Registered
Joined
191 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Intake and thermostat housing is stock. Last time I had it off I tried surfacing the housing because it had to kinda outward dimples but I couldn't see on intake where it would find into anything so I had to grind them down. I'll probably just yank it back apart anything thinking about putting a 180 thermostat in anyway for the winter for better heat in the cab. It's got a 170 as it is now

1985 W150 Royal SE. 5.9 360 727 3 speed auto
 

Super Moderator
Joined
1,474 Posts
It should have a 195 year round. 3m rol-loc disk on both surfaces, rtv gasket maker, let it sit overnight before running. I recall occasionally using a bit of rtv between housing and hose but I don't recall why.
 

Registered
Joined
191 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It should have a 195 year round. 3m rol-loc disk on both surfaces, rtv gasket maker, let it sit overnight before running. I recall occasionally using a bit of rtv between housing and hose but I don't recall why.
It had a 160 in it when I got it so I wasn't sure if it had a over heating problem so I only bumped up to 170. But a 190 or 195 probably would make it run more efficiently. I just worry that the extra heat will thin oil out. Got 20w50 in it now and after it's fully warm it's still only at a little above 30lbs at idle

1985 W150 Royal SE. 5.9 360 727 3 speed auto
 

Super Moderator
Joined
1,474 Posts
Never trust a 70s truck gauge unless you鈥檝e fixed it yourself. 20/50 is great for older motor, FOAD in oil pump pick up isn鈥檛. Hi-vol pump when clean it out is coin well spent for more lube. 195 is OEM for most years,
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top