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General objective is quick 3 part, take it apart, put it back together on bench with basic hand tools.
Typical rebuild kit. Use thick base gasket. Select air horn gasket based on secondary shape. Select throttle plate gasket based on primary bore size. If carb has cold idle enrichment (on front of air horn) use throttle plate gasket with extra holes.
Fuel inlet seat screws into air horn. Remove clip on bowl vent valve arm, slide arm out and replace rubber seal. Pay attention to the spring.
Clean up inside of pump chamber with scotch brite, reuse old spring and insert new pump. Use linkage clip to hold it in place.
Use a small hammer to seat pump chamber base plug.
Carefully work new gasket into place and install accelerator pump tube. Cutting a small notch will make getting the float pins in easier (not shown).
With air horn upside down, bottom of float should be 29/32" from gasket. Adjust by bending tab on float arm. Be careful not to press against inlet needle.
Assemble throttle plate, bowl, air horn and gaskets. Don't forget the o-rings for the primaries (see part 1). Use lock-tite on the screws. Slip metering rods and yoke into place. Removing air bleed cover optional.
Remove fast idle lever pivot screw. Remove choke linkage bracket from rod running across secondary air door. Over rotate the rod and work the fast idle linkage in to place.
Typical rebuild kit. Use thick base gasket. Select air horn gasket based on secondary shape. Select throttle plate gasket based on primary bore size. If carb has cold idle enrichment (on front of air horn) use throttle plate gasket with extra holes.
Fuel inlet seat screws into air horn. Remove clip on bowl vent valve arm, slide arm out and replace rubber seal. Pay attention to the spring.
Clean up inside of pump chamber with scotch brite, reuse old spring and insert new pump. Use linkage clip to hold it in place.
Use a small hammer to seat pump chamber base plug.
Carefully work new gasket into place and install accelerator pump tube. Cutting a small notch will make getting the float pins in easier (not shown).
With air horn upside down, bottom of float should be 29/32" from gasket. Adjust by bending tab on float arm. Be careful not to press against inlet needle.
Assemble throttle plate, bowl, air horn and gaskets. Don't forget the o-rings for the primaries (see part 1). Use lock-tite on the screws. Slip metering rods and yoke into place. Removing air bleed cover optional.
Remove fast idle lever pivot screw. Remove choke linkage bracket from rod running across secondary air door. Over rotate the rod and work the fast idle linkage in to place.